Post your DISC quality scans here 2

ROFL!!!

GM = greensman = the greensman = the GM = FATMAN = Fat Boy = well you get the gist.

cincyrob = RedRob = Rob = Red MAN = Robert = NOT the GM.

....gm

Nice scans for the LG there O-man7. NOT to shabby on the Jitter which is nice.

If this humor offends then send a PM... no big deal really but it's happened more than once in the last few weeks. The confusion that is, NOT offended by the name cincyrob or RedRob or anything to do with my friend. BUT I don't think I've said anything in the near past about the S versus the A version.

Rob you get the cross-flash to work?? If not get with me later... going to basketball practice for the oldest.

 

nope i cant get it to flash over. ive used the EEPROM tool and it points to the drive it says it has flashed to but it doesnt show the drive as being a 20A1P


and it wont do the FW update cause i dont have that drive to change its FW??????

 

i kinda thought the same thing Creaky. ive been looking all over at CDF but cant find anyone saying anything about this problem. gonna hit up a google search now.. plus trying to contact our resident crossflasher guru GM.(no i didnt say crossdresser) lmao///!!!!!

 

@ Cincyrob,

I'm in the same boat trying to crossflash my LH-20A1H over to a 20A1P. I use the eprom proggy and then try to flash with the unencrypted f/w from ck's site and get the same result.

 

I haven't heard from Rob since this morning but I mentioned trying to use the bin file and see if you can flash it that way. I'm a little out of it and had a hard day at work.... gonna look at some stuff later tonight and see if I'm able to help you fellas. good luck in the mean time

...gm

 

Tried it, i.e., the .bin extracted from the .exe off c/k site. No go.

 

Binkie7!

Happy New Year, puppy dog!

Have a biscuit to celebrate the New Year.


Kisses!

 

Here's why I think my LH-20A1H is dieing:

Here's the Info screen off the iHAP322:



Notice the 4 lines of info.

Here's the same disc with the info screen off the LH-20A1H:


Notice only 2 lines of info.

Read about this off cdf, didn't see anything to fix it.

 

Ok.... I'm looking now for something that will help. It maybe a lost cause.

....gm

ADD: Ok... I'm not getting all the info from you guys or your drives are SCREWED!!! I just flashed mine from 20A1P =>18A1P => 20A1P. I'll post some screenies but I'm not sure it would help. You fellas know what you're doing.
Used the eeprom Utility to "upgrade" me ODD

The upgrade STILL shows as a 18x drive as it's NOT had the 20x flash yet.

Grabbed the flash-utility and it took 2 times for the flash to take effect. I may have had 1MB selected or something but it worked strait away the 2nd time.

What IMGBURN sees.


hth in some way.

 

RedRob looky here. lol. Here's your 20A3P disguised as a Sony. linky

 

Mannnn... Thats not right. They shouldnt have the right to put Sony/Nec on a burner that is infact lite-on. That really bothers me. Really shady if you ask me, NOT too shabby a scan Binkie7.
By the way, the number 7 is mine. I hold the patent! LOL. Nah... I was born on the seventh,

 

omegaman7,
I don't believe they are re-badged at all! I think many different companies make the parts, judging by all the labels on drives these days. There are too many physical differences for them the just be rebadged anything. I would imagine all of these different components are manufactured by other companies to Sony/Nec/Optiarc's specs and then assembled by Optiarc. I think the term re-badged for optical drives is highly overused and many times wrong. I know that there is at least three different company's labels on a lot of drives. Since it makes no sense to go to the expense of creating drives so physically different, what would be the point? All it would do is increase the costs! I'm not saying that this is 100% across the board, but it does make sense to me! I'm quite sure that a lot of the drive manufacturers, like LiteOn make the exact same drive for many different companies, but I'm fairly certain that Optiarc isn't one of them. Lots of times I've seen drives with different brand names that were absolutely identical. I have yet to see that with the Optiarcs. Possibly the AW models, but the others look different, inside and out. I've repaired enough of them, and that's my observation!

Russ

 

Once again, You steer me in the right direction. Your absolutely right. I guess im just sick of manufacturers not taking pride in their equipment. Gotta love mass production. Its all about the money. Who can push out the most. In a perfect world (LOL), every device would be flawless and perfect beyond belief. Nah, I know that may never happen. Truly is a shame when it seems that some things get worse rather than better sometimes.

 

heres a fooling around burn from the DRU830. Hasnt seen a burn in MONTHS!!! Not bad considering its seen more than my 840 (ALOT ALOT of discs), and made funny clicking/bbzztttzztt sounds throughout!
Burned at 4X. The drive always did prefer 4X.
I imagine 8X would get pretty colorfull, LOL

 

Russ you may be right when it comes to certain drives like ASUS, they use the same chip that Lite-On does (Mediatek) many times but build a completely different drive. I found that out with the 2 that I purchased. Still decent drives so no worries really.

On the Sony's, the are just Lite-On production models with Sony/Optiarc cosmetics. I've researched this and that's why some Sony's are/have been BENQ's, Liteys, NEC's, and maybe more but those 3 for sure.

....gm

 

well i tried the same thing as hobbit and got the same results. CK pm'd at cdf. he said the flasher will use the exe file just fine.and it did. it just wont flash to the newer drive and FW.no biggy as GM and i talked about last night my LH-18A1P prolly has about 1000 burns on it if not close to it. it is/was about time for it to bite the bullet...here is a scan of the last disc it burnt. i scanned it on my LH-20A1S(which now has problems will explain later)



so it is just setting in the tower powerless right now.lol gotta wait for a new drive to get here.

now my LH-20A1S.
i put in a 250gb ide hdd this morning,i took out some sata cables to give me some room to move things around. i noticed when i went to put everything back together, the sata connector on the back of the drive was broke off. only the pins were showing i looked at the cables and the little plastic thing was still in the sata cable. so i just easily plugged it back in and it seems to be working fine. i did that above scan on that drive with the broken part. getting ready to do a burn and see what happens. here is a pic of what I'm talking about that broke.



so i guess I'm in the need of 2 drives now... this flat out sucks. the drive still works but knowing it is broken messes with the mind not knowing if it is gonna mess up?

 

If that's the case, I guess they are going for what is the most cost effective for them. I look at it this way, A good drive is a good drive, regardless of whose name is on it, so you get the one that's the most bang for the buck. Quality is Quality! LOL!!

Russ

 

Considering the shaky availability of the AD-7200s, what's a good burner to buy these days? I'm confused as hell with ProVantage. One place says they have them and another doesn't. I found it on line but the url Will gave me doesn't work anymore. I know GM likes the Samsungs and the LiteOns. What models, and yes I'm going to go Sata against my better judgment!

Russ