The New AMD Building Thread

It was my first Intel chipset build and one of the easiest configs I ever set up. I loved the board and I loved its P35 cousin even more. Even better is that the P35 was based on the v1.33 revision changes

 

Russ, I believe you have good temps now because you have a cache 2 chip Athlon onboard at the moment,But if you go with a C3 955BE GM chip in 2 to 3 weeks your gonna be fighting to get your idle temps down like you have with the C2 Athlon II X4 630 chip and your fans in your case will be setup the same, Russ...I just wanna know are the C3 chips ment to run warmer than the C2 chips and the only way to find out in contact AMD them self to find the truth but as people have said the C3's are better that means they Cramed the extra things into the chip without any head room to breath.not to be off subject but,I found out along time ago to make a Old ford engine to run good it needs to breath right and enough water and anti freeze to get it cool so am I comparing this chip to and engine? yes in same ways. I am cause I'm asking more from it in horse power it demands more to cool it you gonna look at it from some points of view what produces heat? friction,sun light,stress what can cool these things air and water among other things, sorry but from all my cpu's, I buy always ask for atlease another Ghz out of them if close to it right now. I'm satisfied with Q9550 Oc'd at 3935ghz that's + 1105ghz over factory at 1.296v and stable all day long and the temps way much lower,I'm more than pleased, now the Amd at 3.4ghz at the box should'en have no problem reaching 3.9ghz right? wrong it takes almost max voltage to hold it there stable 1.392v that should be a walk in the park for amd to get 0.5 ghz out of it with that much voltage

Sam saids:

now explain to me how it's meaningless when you gotta raise volts to keep the cpu stable at idle on a overclocking basic also the temps are not the same as factory specs temps either as volts raise temps do to More heat involed at idle...

anyway here's a shot this morning firing up my AMD rig this is the lowest. I ever saw it sense putting the new freezer 64 on it from the stock cooler it comes to show which one is telling the truth here core temp or everest? I woke up to a cool room this morning also with the window open and the sun not up yet so that means over night cool air got inside the case over night and another question how long does it take for thermal paste to cure ?

 

If you have to raise voltage to keep the CPU stable at idle, the voltage wasn't high enough. That doesn't mean it overheated. No CPU overheats at idle unless you're being insanely stupid. For example, using no fan on your heatsink and turning the volts up to 1.6.

It's well publicised that AMD CPUs aren't good overclockers, so you can't expect an extra 1Ghz out of them like you can Intel chips. Generally, 3.9Ghz is pretty difficult with most AMDs, 3.7-3.8 is about the best you can achieve easily, but that goes for almost every CPU, so no real reason to buy the expensive ones. This is also typically the case with i5s and i7s, buy the cheapest if you're overclocking, now that FSB and multipliers are no longer an issue you don't need to buy big to perform big.

 

the first statement you said

reverse that you normally have to raise the voltage to achieve a good and stable Oc but temperature increase also fellows the voltage increase beyond the normal factory specs that's why we have the option of manual voltage settings to calibrate the right voltages + or - to figure out which is able enough to hold the cpu stable + = more heat - = less heat when in(Auto) some boards wants to kick the voltages up over factory limits on Oc'ing that's where manual comes in where we can take control matter and 3.9ghz was'nt difficult for me it just took more volts than. I realized to hold it stable without goin over the factory voltage spec of 1.4v at 1.392v at 3903ghz with the multiplier at 18.5 is'nt bad for me and yes the theory is true AMD cpu's don't make good overclockers it takes way more juice to do so beyond there limits unless you want to burn them up and. I don't want to burn this one just reduce the heat with water instead of Air

no some people buy to what they like and what they can afford you like alot things. I don't care for and vice a verser as long as we are both happy with what we got and what we use them for who are we to argue but there's always that last word to fellow Opinions that's where high raises among us here Sam all.I'm saying is that if Corsair backs it's words in proformance and the product Corsair makes the Hydro Series H50 out performs the High Performance Air coolers like tuniq or others why not they have proven the fact many times Corsair have showed significant improvements over traditional air-based CPU coolers. I don't understand you, You have alwaysBacked there PSU's so many times in debates but leave them in this issue of cooling, I'm a backer of Cooler Master in there products and some maybe better than others but there cases are Top Dog in my book oops my opinion I'll get the H50 and past on the info and maybe it will work or maybe not if so there's always the receipt to return and if it works out well with cooling the C3 965 maybe omegaman may get him 1 after see's the results of these very Hot 965BE's C3's

 

You've completely misunderstood, of course raising the voltage raises the temperatures, but even so, a CPU shouldn't overheat at idle, ever!

 

sam stable and tempratures are different unless you meant keep the temps stable at idle. when you say keep a CPU at stable at idle, i would assume stability and not temps.

 

Well the cooling problem is solved after getting off the phone last night with Russ, I remembered. I had another cooler laying no need to spend 80 bucks on a water cooler and it dropped my temps by 12 degrees idle from 46 to 34 give or take this morning,It's the cooler you all hated back in the day on the Biostar I45 build along with the E8400 EO but. I found out that 4 pipes work better than 3 with this AMD 965BE C3 with it's heat issues,I'm a happy camper now Russ. I suggest 4 pipes with your upgrade to a 955BE C3 also. I'm running a intake & exhaust fan mounted on the cooler 120mm. I got more enough room to work with after install temps where 36c at start up idle stress level did'nt go past 58c yesterday this morning after cool down last night start up was 34c all. I can say and admit, I was wrong about the air not cooling this Hot Puppy,But. I do suggest 4 pipes for these C3's and 120mm fans good luck with those 92mm. I don't thing they will be enough...

my old boy here got the job done and it was just laying around collecting dust
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?category_id=1623&product_id=2731

slide show of work done new arctic silver thermal paste applied
http://img547.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img547/193/1270387510biz.smil


Ps. this item is for sale along with it's buddy..lol both are brand new
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185125
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186134

 

Even though it's not a very good 120mm cooler, it's still a 120mm cooler, which will be better than any 92mm cooler. Unless you're going for big clocks (i.e. 4Ghz plus) you'll be fine with the 212 I'm sure. Getting beyond 4Ghz requires huge voltages though which require the best 120/140mm coolers, and beyond that water cooling.

 

Good enough for the Amd 965BE C3 GM at 3.9ghz stable at 1.392v 24/7 no blue screens of death here. I back cooler master parts.I'll put it side by side with the best of them you see Artic Cooler did'nt get the job done and alot of people brag about them goe's to show you it did'nt handle well under stress and displacment another words it did'nt handle the volume of heat let out. I don't plan to go to 4.0ghz staying right here at 3.9ghz it will have to take 1.4v to ride at 4.0ghz and above no need to burn up a cpu for really nothing to gain pasted it's factory voltage specs...

 

Well, hardly fair, you're comparing a high-end large cooler to a midrange medium size cooler, so it's unsurprising that the Coolermaster wins. As it turns out the Freezer Extreme is pretty naff, and CM's top-end coolers are better. Overall though, neither of the two brands produce the best quality cooling gear. That acclaim goes to proper cooling manufacturers like Tuniq, Thermalright, Prolimatech and Noctua.

 

man those jokers are huge with the Prolimatech you have to buy the AMD Retention Mount Adapter Kit to make it work plus and fan and out of the Thermalright only one model fit

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835242004

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835109022

and this joker here is really huge You need a kick stand to hold it up in your case...lol that's alot weight on the motherboard don't you think?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835154011

 

Prolimatech design Intel coolers first and foremost, so they don't come compatible with AMDs initially. Noctua, Thermalright and Tuniq, however, build coolers for both companies.
You happen to have chosen the largest of Noctua's coolers, the best performer, but the NH-U12P is the most common:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608014
The 'backplate required' is given as I think some boards come with a backplate mounting mechanism already.
Newegg, until very recently it seems, had an embargo on Thermalright products due to a trade disagreement. Perhaps this has now been resolved and some products have started trickling in. Either way, the Ultra-120 Rev. C, which fits AMDs out of the box, is not there yet.
As for the Tuniq, you've picked the Extreme version, which unfortunately, is crap. The original Tuniq Tower is fine, reasonably sized, and although tricky to mount, seems a reliable performer.

 

BigWill, I'm running the regular Tuniq tower, and it's nearly as large? Not sure about their differences. I was iffy about the size and my mobo being able to support it. Both appear to be sturdy. The board did not flex. I'm quite pleased with its performance. I am however tempted to run either its stock fan, or another to a manual fan controller. I don't like that the CPU WANTS to run between 44-46C idle. VERY weird. I realize the idle temp is not critical, but darn it, if I allow it to heat up, the room also heats up LOL! Since I've lowered the Secondaries temps, my room is noticeably cooler, which is good for both pc's

 

Assuming I'm getting accurate temperature readings my Noctua D14 is astonishingly good. It's keeping my 930 only a couple of C warmer under linpack than some idle temps my E6600 had with the AC7.

 

The D14 is a very powerful cooler, that doesn't surprise me.

 

Hey Sam,
If the Freezer 64 proves a problem, size is a problem for me, specifically, the distance between the CPU socket and the side cover. This is the only one I could find in a 4 pipe cooler that will fit without removing the side top 80mm exhaust fan, and I don't want to do that if I can help it!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608016

What do you think? Probably single fan!

TIA,
Russ

 

Far better than the Freezer 7, worth a try, but don't expect it to allow large voltage increases.

 

Some of those coolers looks like size of a engine block hanging off your board.lol maybe that's why they making these boards these days with 2oz Copper inner layer to support the weight. I though...I was the only one that like manual fan controllers, I forget what case you have you may have to do a fan adjustment to get the flow right...I did some testing of Prime95 before,I left today about alittle after 1 hour worth and was very happy did'nt pass 60c on stress lov'in it



A quick Super PI run here

 

I can't live without manual fan controllers, the fans I use are too noisy to leave at full speed, and too powerful to run off a motherboard. They're really handy devices.

 

I don't suppose you would trust the cheapy controller that came with the Tuniq, would you?