The (new) Official PC building thread!

Wow I'm away for a few hours and all this!

Pepp, I'm loving that case you have. Seriously, it's not flashy and look very good.

 

Over an amp? I find that highly surprising, maybe it takes that much current to carry that much data, I don't know.
Dougal: The other RAM is CAS4 and has a bigger heatspreader. You can however find CAS4 in 4GB form - it just costs a fair bit more.
http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/ProductInfo.asp?WebProductID=766626

 

These are the three drives Im considering at the moment (only ones without grey/white writing on the front.

Optiarc AD-7200A 20X DVD±RW/DL/RAM Internal Bare Black Drive - OEM

Pioneer DVR-115DBK 20x DVD1RW Dual Layer Internal IDE Black Bare Drive - OEM

Pioneer DVR-215DBK 20X SATA DVD±RW DL Int Black - OEM

Not sure if theres any benefits in SATA over IDE on these types of drives so will probably choose whichever format gives the best cable management possibilities (which will probably be the IDE unless I used two SATA optical drives which would eliminate IDE from the case and remove the IDE cable (things to ponder lol).

 

If you plan on running a 64bit OS then you can get away with the 4 GB and actually use the full 4 GB BUT the 2 GB of Corsair 4-4-4-12 is good enough for almost all uses in a 32 bit OS. XP Pro for one. The timings are tight with the RAM you ordered (Corsair 4-4-4-12) and it will run nice and fast for you.

....gm

@Pepp,
I would look at the Optiarc 7200 but I don't have one. I have 2 of the AD-7170S drives and they perform pretty well. If you go here you can get some L&D f/w for it and have a drive that bit-sets and has some other custom settings. hth....

btw it's difficult to pick ONE drive as the best. The Pioneer is a good drive in the SATA or IDE version. It's more difficult to mess with tho and you'll have more issues (updates and such NOT the f/w itself) with f/w than the Optiarc imo..

edit: forgot link to L&D f/w.... link

 

Pepp77,

That's normal! When it's under MB control the fan won't spin until the CPU is warm enough. You can spin it manually and it will run but it won't start until it's looking for about 800 rpm which is the minimum for an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro. During the winter it was in the 40s outside and pretty cool inside, it takes a good 10-15 minutes before the fan runs because the case fans are doing a good enough job of moving the air, but it will come on when needed so not to worry!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Russ - Thanks - but can you explain why then after the second reboot the fan has been running at 2450-2480 RPMs constantly.

Finally started installing windows and the temps hadnt changed from the 41/25 they were about 2 hours ago.

 

Okay - the CPU fan had stopped again as it wasnt showing in Everest, so I tooka look and it had stopped.

Im now running Orthos and 15 mins in the temps are:-

Motherboard - 42 celcius
CPU - 40/41 celcius
CPU Core 1 - 59/60 celcius
CPU Core 2 - 60/61 celcius
GPU 56 celcius

And the CPU fan is running at 475-495RPM (as I typed this line the CPU temp dropped to 38 then went back to 39).

Everest is showing both cores as at 100% utilisation.

Voltages are:-
CPU Core - 1.17/1.18
+3.3V - 3.36
+12V - 12.06
+5V - 5.21
Dimm - 1.78/1.79 and they are running at 800Mhz using 5-5-5-18 timings.


Under the SPD section it says this about the RAM

Memory Speed - DDR2-800 (400mhz)
Voltage - 2.1V
Timings - 4-4-4-12
trc - 22T
CR - 2T
tWR - 6T

Does this mean Id need to increase my Dimm voltage in the BIOS to 2.1V to run at the CAS4 timings.

Edit - Also found out my board is running F6 BIOS and it recognised the new E8200 without any issues.

 

dam this thread is fast!!
1.2 amps seems to be right! it seems like alot, but i can see how since e-sata/SATA are so fast


pepp77- if i may, save up and buy a blu-ray burner, its going to be standard might as well buy one now?.....although they'll be cheaper+better in awhile (year or so)

 

Just got the chance to mess around with a NEW toy. lol. cincy you hush!!

Bought a "pig in a poke" today and I may have gotten a GOOD surprise for a change. lol. Only thing is I can't get into the case right now for fear of BREAKING something. :S

Here's the list as far as I can tell:

Gigabyte 3DAurora 570
ASUS ROG Striker Extreme
CPU - Q6600 -SL9UM
X-Fi model: SB0460
A few fans: case, RAM, mosfet/cpu , and directional "wand"

I need some help with these locks tho. link to pic

more pics:

lock again

window side

view of cpu

mobo view

case


Any ideas on the locks are welcome. I've never dealt with them on a case before and I don't want to drill them if I have to. Would calling/emailing Gigabyte help?? tia.....

Another question... I'm truly not sure about the cpu or mobo either. Should I have them tested or just put it all together and try it?? lol I really don't care about the sound card but if it works that's great too. It looks a little warped so I'm betting that it doesn't work..

....gm

 

So the front panel is locked but you don't have a key for it? Those locks are usually pretty weak, you could probably pick it easily without too much harm.

 

greensmans wrote:
I need some help with these locks tho.

are we talking about the locks on the computer or the lock on the refrigator..cause that pic looks awful close to the food cooler..lol just kidding.i had to get'cha..you have to drill them out..I had the same problem 1 time.I took a small cordless drill and a small bit with a little 3 in 1 oil and did mine, them locks look like the same ones that are on pop machines.that you see around..

here's the type setup is on that case
http://www.tryten.com/products/pccaselock.php

 

guys which RC-690 is it? the KKA1 or the KKN1? and wouldn't the case be loud with all the fans?

 

I got to start clipping my pics. lol. Spiders, other cases, refrigerators and what not. hehehe.

Ok.... I got a little "bull" headed and made me own little tool. lol. Took a paper clip and made a circle that fit nicely into the loop around the edge of the lock and then took a screw driver and pushed the other pin down and then had my oldest move the lever from inside the case. NO psu so a BIG hole in the case for a little arm. I couldn't even get mine past mid fore arm. lol. Any way we got it and the front lock too. I think that I preserved them in some way and might order a set of keys from Gigabyte but it's a free case now!! Heck this case is pretty danged good. Tool-less design with ODD's and floppy drives plus the HDD's use the standard black plastic thingies... lol.

I've got to find a way to test the cpu and mobo. hmmmmm....

....gm

 

ok (macgyver) you sure did pick your way out that one..good job glad to see you got it open..and kids sure do come in handy with there little hands and arms in small places..how old do think the case is? and how many fan vents and size will fit?

 

I'm a little tired I guess Will. lol. What are you asking?? Here's a link to the case. The EGG still sells them and I'm happy for what I paid for the deal for now. I'll be frikkin ecstatic if the mobo and cpu are good.

....gm

 

Orthos and Everest shots after 7 hours

So everything seems to be okay with my comp - the temps havent changed from when Orthos was 15 mins in to now.

 

what the heck is a pig in a poke??? sounds like a stephen King movie???lol

kinda sucks now that i got this up and running stable at 3.7ghz nothing to fiddle with..lol maybe try and get my mem running more at its rated speed 1066.
gotta wait a little bit and gonna get a new sata Hdd (500gb) and at least 1 sata ODD. guess i need to go into the case and do some real wire management..lol

as for the case. we all got the KKA1 the one without the PSU in it.
the fans unless you get some loud non stock fans its a quiet case. the only fan i hear is the one from my PSU. which down the road here im gonna replace i have the 3 fans the case came with plus a nice red led antec tricool fan running in it. along with the fan for the cpu. i plan on getting a couple more of the antec tricool fans. very nice fans

speaking of those if they are plugged into the mobo can you still use the speed contol it comes with or will the mobo over ride that?

 

GTR: Who's that directed to? And also, it isn't the number of fans in a PC that defines the noise level (if you have lots of fans you can turn them down more so technically more fans is quieter). My file server is much quieter than my main PC, which in turn is pretty quiet, and that has 8 fans running in it - three 120mm case fans, two 80mm case fans, a 92mm cpu cooler, and an 80 and 120 in the PSU, only the PSU's 80 is clearly audible, and even then it's barely above 21dB.
Greensman: The 3D Aurora is a nice case, I was considering one at one point, but was put off by it's UK price.
When my server's case arrived it seemed like the means to get it open was locked inside. Not so, fortunately, all it took was removing all four of the rear screws... LOL
Rob: I was going to ask that, I too have no idea what a pig in a poke is.
As for the tri-cool fans, you will have a double effect if you control them using the motherboard and the switch, they will go from practically stationary to the low speed if set low, and they will go from the low speed to the high speed if set high.

 

In a hurry...

pig in a poke

....gm