The (new) Official PC building thread!

For an automated overclock, 3.15Ghz is perfectly fine for me - it runs cool and quiet like that. I have plenty of buffer room with all the settings I have available to me, I chose not to use them.

 

you're obviously not pushing your cpu to the point to where you need those advanced settings/adjustments but don't say they are not necessary just because you choose not to push your OC higher or the cpu to it's full potential. that just isn't true.

I didn't need to adjust the NB or FSBT voltages until taking my OC beyond 3.75ghz. that's where the challenge comes to play. keeping the vcore as low as possible while playing with the NB and FSBT voltages.

anybody can just raise the cpu frequency and vcore but they will reach their limit sooner due to excessive vcore and heat.

 

Hey guys, my 14 year old mouse is starting to not work anymore. So you guys have any suggestions on affordable but good mice?

 

here ya go abuzar1. this is what i got me. works awsome. wireless and no problems from it what so ever.kinda basic but works great..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823126174

 

abuzar1,

Have you considered Euthanasia? ROFLMAO!!

Russ

 

lol

That's a full desktop, I'll try to find just the mouse.


Yeah euthanasia sounds about right for this old one.

 

boozer i like these!! link to mice

I'm a fan of a wired mouse. I've had some issues in the past with wireless mice and that pushed me to use a wired model.

...gm

 

Thanks guys, I might end up getting one of the ones GM recommended.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104014

Or I might just get a Microsoft Sidewinder Gaming mouse. Until then I can use my 360 controller for games I guess.

 

same here GM. I like a tail on my mouse. every wireless I've tried gave me fits at one time or another. I use an el cheapo, solid black, optical logitec I got at Staples for $10.

 

abuzar1,
Take a look at one of these.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826125027
I have the same mouse in silver and it has a receiver, not s USB stick. The receiver plugs into the usb port on about a 4-5" cord batteries last me about a month. Very good quality and no hinges or crap with the buttons as the top cover is designed to flex so it's very positive with the buttons. Very easy to use as it feels like and other mouse! This is my second one as a friend of mine, or rather his Son got mad playing a game and smashed the first one because he lost! My attitude is, It's a game, get over it! His dad bought me this one, same model but the original was blue and silver, this one is silver on silver. I've had two different models from Kensington now and both worked far better than any other wireless mouse I've ever used. We have the same design but corded on the AMD and the feel is exactly the same. It also has pretty good range Neweggs out of them at the moment but they almost always always have them in stock. Tip:Throw the batteries that come with it in the trash, or use them for a flashlight, they stink! LOL!! I buy Duracells at Home Depot in the 16 pack for just under $.50 each, and that's 8-9 months worth. BTW! I don't like wireless keyboards. We have the same Logitec that someone posted, but in a combo with a mouse, and I hate them. I don't know what method they use for the wireless but if someone walks between you and the mouse, the mouse stops moving! Mine you don't even have to see the receiver! They bought 2 and both receivers failed. No lights either on the keyboard. I'm forever half way through typing something when I realize that the caps lock is on. At home, I almost never use it!

sammorris,
I just got a chance to look at your MB Manual. Much nicer bios than mine. I noticed you can make much finer adjustments on the MCH, FSB and the PCIE Over Voltage Controls. I also like the Clock Driving & Skew Control and the Load Line Calibration to fine tune the CPU Vcore Voltage. Very nice! Me Want! LOL!!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Thought I would post some quick pix of the Thermaltake VD1000SWA. As you can tell the wires from the HDD's stick out a little to far.. the HDD box is shown in one of the links and the HDD has to be "screwed" into the "box". The front "panel" has 2 hinges on it, 1 for the door (which is very sturdy) and 1 for the plastic front. The main problem with that is the door and panel are held onto the case with screws thru the plastic panel. Thru the plastic (which is a bad case design). One of the links shows the ODD drives installed and they're "slanted" or "crooked" which really sucks... I even tried different slots and couldn't them to level out. I guess I just got a lemon but it is upsetting to say the least.

shows front of case
pic 1
shows inside case and HDD box in upper left hand corner
pic 2
shows HDD wires (cables) and how much they stick out (not being right angle cables)
pic 3
shows the slanted drives
pic 4

Just wanted to post these and let you people have a look at what I was talking about. I have a Gigabyte aluminum case too and it's built much better than this one. Shame really cause I like the general design of the TT case.

...gm

 

looks like a real tight fit there GM..

anyone want this box of shit i have here. this damn thing is back to shutting down and restarting... im done with this thing. its going back if they dont replace it im parting it all out

 

Robert i would change to a Asus mobo , then have a PC shop put it together and check it out

 

hey would a bad HDD be able to cause these problems?

im trying to unrar some files and keep getting errors.
but when u get on my HP system and extract the files to my HP hdd it works fine. ive been talking to someone on IRC and he say's its my hdd thats bad causeing me these RAR errors???

 

Yeah, it could be causing errors. Try changing out the drive.

 

dont have one right now..lol

i gotta tear it all down again to send the mobo back so the HDD will go too..lol im truely tired of this. its been a headache from the begining

 

Man, you have the most computer problems of anyone I have EVER seen.

 

's alright, in trying to change my OS letter from G: back to C: I bricked one of my XP installs.. It's not all roses for anyone. I'm really sorry you've had such awful luck with this build though Rob. Has the RAM been checked and replaced?

 

abuzar1,

True, but remember he did a few things that he ought not to have done with it. Not meaning to throw rocks Rob, but some things you did were downright foolish, and maybe like me, fed by a little lust for power and the desire to join the 4GHz club. Overclocking it with a sub-standard PSU wasn't exactly, well you know! This is a classic example of what will happen to you one of these days Abuzar, with one of your builds unless you learn some patience. You were very lucky, Rob wasn't! Your's could just as easily have been a major disaster!

It may well not have mattered what brand of motherboard he used, given the circumstances. I've put together 22 GigaBytes this year so far and not one of them failed to fire up when I threw the switch. I'm very thorough and take my time and I've still only seen 1 BSOD with a GigaByte MB, ever! now excuse me while I go cheer up greensman!

Hey GM,
Hows about a Green case, and man do I mean Green! LOL!!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144011



I saw this and said to myself, Self, go make Greensman's day! LOL!! comes complete with a 420 watt PSU! ROFLTIPMP!!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Russ I just pushed the buy button on the GREEN case. NOT!!!!!!! That thing may be green but it's hideous!! lol. I think I'll just return the TT case and be done with it for a while. I'll come across another Morty deal in the future and get exactly what I want. The CM-690 is a good case just a bit heavy, course most of that is innards. lol.

....gm

rob sorry you're having a time of it. I think a NEW mobo may do the trick... Hopefully Giga will take care of you.