The (new) Official PC building thread!

Hey guys I got a question with the Blackline. The front audio connectors to the motherboard....Why is there an HD Audio connector AND an AC97?? You can't use both at the same time, can you?
And why are there extra single pin connectors attatched to them?? Do I connect the single pin ones or the bigger HD Audio/AC97 ones?

 

sammorris,

I wasn't trying to downplay the role of the PSU, but rather trying to emphasize the general order of things needed and why you need to know the load before buying that quality PSU. Most people would never need more than 650 watts, let alone 1000w. Some, like myself don't need more than 500w, and I'm not even close to being underpowered! I'm well aware of how lucky I was to have been in the right place at the right time when that cheap PSU burst into sparks and flame. I'm well aware of how badly it could have turned out had I had been taking a nap, cause I'd be dead!

The problem is that most people buy a case for it's looks and it's internal layout, without a clue as to how they are going to cool it. They depend on the case manufacturer to get it right! To me there's something seriously wrong with a case's airflow design if it takes 8 or 10 case fans to get the temps reasonable. We are only talking about cooling a space about 3 to 5 cubic feet here. We can buy fans with incredible airflow capabilities these days, and can get all that air flowing through a case without difficulty. The problem is getting that air to flow where it's needed. That's what my little invention was all about. Sad to say that I've given up on that! It works, and works well but it's just too damn big and there's just not enough room in a lot of cases to use it. Besides, it's something that really needs to be built into the case to begin with. Great idea, but it's just not practical!

NZXT has the right idea with the three inside 120mm fans in the Khanos. That case should have no cooling problems whatsoever, and won't need a TRU or a TRUE to cool it either. Why? Because it keeps air moving through the areas inside the case that need it the most without affecting the case's front to rear airflow or altering the air pressure inside the case! It's brilliant!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Alright who's the PAGE destroyer??? Someone needs to downsize their pic/image!! I'm having issues with a 19" screen and can't imagine the poor souls that might be using a 15" screen.

ON importance of components it makes total sense to start with the cpu, mobo, and RAM first then surround those components with the proper parts to make it a solid rig.

I LIKE the idea of looking at the psu as important but if you buy "quality" components (it doesn't matter what part/component) you'll be ahead of the game the first time. Ask bigwill about cases, RedRob about psu's, me about all of it.. hehehe. I think we've all "skimped" out more than once but finally learned some sort of lesson and went on to build bigger and better systems.

I try to be as simple as possible and most of the time I OVERKILL when it comes to psu!!! I'd rather have a little to much power than just NOT enough. I have a 850W and 1000W in my two upper end systems and I'm never gonna worry about NOT having enough power. hehehe.

....gm

 

mrk44,

Because the AC97 one is for older motherboards, or motherboards that don't support or have HD Audio. You can't use both at the same time, nor would you need to!

Your X48 MB has the same ACL889A sound as my P35-DS3R, and it works great. Hopefully you will be able to use the Coax or Optical S/PDIF out to your sound system as it's the Bomb! My system allows me to choose between Analog and S/PDIF, and the difference in sound quality between the two is stunning! I've used a separate sound card with all my builds in the past, but the sound is so good with the on-board that my Sound Blaster Live 5.1 sits collecting dust now. I have no need for it anymore as the HD audio in my motherboard is superior to it!

greensman,

Sam's the guilty party! LOL!! Here's a hint! If you have a large pic, use the direct link so it doesn't mess up the page for everyone. BTW it's not the size of the monitor, it's the resolution that causes the problem. The lower the resolution, the bigger the problem!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

I just finished building...AND IT WORKS!!!! YAAAY!! Thank you guys sooo much!!!! And the Blackline is WHISPER quiet. Can't hear a thing.
And I had some trouble earlier with the Xigmatek push pins, took me an hour to fix it......hope it's stable enough....
Question: Do I really need the spoiler inside the heatsink?? I didn't put it in, and it works just fine...

 

mrk44,

For the life of me I can't understand why people have so much trouble with push-pins. If you do it right, there's nothing easier. The problem is a simple mechanical one! The only reason you fight with it is the pin that goes through the motherboard isn't all the way in the hole when you try to lock it in place. The harder you push the worse the problem gets! The other problem is that you can't push it in with the little knob. The round shoulder just above the pin that goes through the MB has to be flat against the MB, or you will never get it in! The minute you start to push against the knob moves the inside spreader pin just enough to keep the pointy pin from going in the hole. If it's flush against the MB, (that means the pin is all the way in the hole) it takes just a second to lock it into place. Use a finger or your thumb to firmly press down one corner of the spring bracket at a time so the big round part above the pin is flush with the motherboard, and it goes right in! It works everytime! I can install my FS7-Pro in under two minutes, and that's only because it's used and has been in and out about 6 times and the points of the pins have spread. Otherwise it takes less than a minute to install a new one. And that's with the MB mounted in the case! Always push down by the mount, not the pins themselves 1 corner at a time and it goes in so easily, you wouldn't believe! It's an incredibly easy thing to do!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

theonejrs: lol When I first did it, I also thought it was a piece of cake. But actually one of my push pins was broken....or at least I thought it was. The little black thing was pushed in too much. I spent an hour trying to put it in like that, only to realize that all I had to do was pull it out a little. Went right in after.

Also, (I asked this in my last post too) do I NEED the spoiler?? Is it really necessary? I didn't put it in because it seemed really pointless...
I'm not sure if all heatsinks have one, but mine does...

 

mrk44,

I'm going to assume that it is angled down towards the back of the computer and maybe angled down on one side. That should be to help cool the VRMs. I can't tell from the picture since Xigmatec is too cheap to provide proper pictures that include the mount! I would suggest you put it in as the air would be directed right at the copper part on the rear of the motherboard and the outside if one side is angled down. When you re-install the Cooler try the way I said. When you've got the pin in the hole, make sure the little knob is rotated counter clockwise all the way and press down while still keeping pressure on the mount. Locks smoothly and easily, every time!

Russ

 

Yeah, I'm gonna try that. Right now, I went into BIOS and CPU temp is at 72C!!! WTF?!?! Either I did something wrong, or the spoiler REALLY helps....damm....
Do you think this could have happened because I kept putting the cooler on and taking it off again while trying to install the blasted thing (with arctic 5 on it)?

 

mrk44,

Something's not right, that's for sure. Check to be sure that something isn't interfering with the contact between the CPU and cooler. Be sure that the cooler clears all the capacitors arouns the CPU socket Check to be sure that there's no plastic cap (easy to miss) over the end of the CPU cooler. What's your room temp like? There's no way that it should be anywheres near temps like that!

Russ

 

Frankly, I'm surprised it hasn't burnt out yet! I left it on for like 5 mins.
Room temps at 80F...
I took the little plastic part off already.
I applied arctic silver, and it was on there for a while, with nothing over it. It doesn't dry does it??
And what do you mean by "the cooler clears all the capacitors arouns the CPU socket??"

By the way, it's a bitch to take off the cooler, but i'll try...

 

Russ, yes push pins are VERY easy... On the stock cooler and the Freezer 7 pro. I don't think you have used the Xigmatek push pins, they are VERY FREKING FRUSTRATING AHAHHSYUFUFYUDGKD GU:GRO dpdisfhipfya fhbhfgb

That's how much they frustrate me!

EDIT: MRK, That cooler is SO HARD to get on perfectly right. You HAVE to take out your motherboard and install the CPU and cooler FIRST. After that you have to be careful not to even NUDGE the cooler or it will come out.

There is a easier way. This:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233019&Tpk=xigmatek+retention+bracket

 

Looks like I'm not the only one who went through hell to install the damn thing....
I think I just might install the stock cooler for now. **** the Xigmatek, I'll wait until I get the retention bracket. If I had known about this sooner....thanks for the link. I think they might just send it to me through the promotion though. I talked to this guy over the phone, said he had some extras left.
I got a little blood on the heatsink fins because they cut me....had to clean them out with alcohol....

 

lol

I got REALLY frustrated with the cooler, so I took it out and I replaced it with a cooler for a E2180 I had lying around. The IDLE temps dropped 20C! Then Itook apart the damn computer and I installed everything again. After that it cooled VERy well, but it was a pain.

 

abuzar1,

Hell, if they're too cheap to provide pictures of the complete cooler, then I wouldn't even consider buying one! And if their engineering is that poor that they can't duplicate something that simple and make it work properly, I wouldn't want one anyway! Besides, I won't buy any cooler that has to have the fan attached with cheap-assed clips or twist ties. Give us a proper fan mount ya cheap bastards!

Russ


I've added it to my POS list!

 

The cooler itself performs almost as well as a TRUE, and it has rubber mounting bracket, to reduce vibrations(no paper clips like the TRUE). Also Xigmatek used to provide the bolt thru kit for FREE. It's not as bad as you make it out to be, once it works.

MRK, try calling Xigamatek. They send away those kits for free. Of course back then they didn't sell the kit, but it's still worth a try.

 

@mrk44

boy ur house is hot..80F you must dont got know central air runn'in i hope you did'nt put to much arctic silver on that rig of urs? to much won't let the heat escape normally. i put mine on the heat sink on my builds alittle dap then..i place heat sink on the cpu give alittle twist left to right the fasten it down but my heat sink is lapped also to..plus we don't know how many fans you got runn'in?

 

Yeah, I'm gonna turn on the A/C now. I'm sweating my ass off here...
I got three four fans on the case: front, rear, top, side.
I just installed the stock cooler and I'm about to see the temp...
Hopefully not too high.

abuzar: I already called them. The promotions over, but the guy said he will give me an extra one anyway. They don't give them out anymore because they sell them on newegg now...

EDIT: ROFL!!! I just checked temp with stock cooler: Went from 72C to 33C!!!!

 

Good luck man. It's a great cooler once you have it installed right. It will easily cool that Q9450 to 3.6Ghz, and well it gets a bit difficult to OC it beyond that point. I think it's a FSB limitation.