sammorris, You have my sympathy! It depends on whether the Hygenist uses an Ultrasonic scaler or does hand scaling! While the Ultrasonic is more annoying, the hand scaling is a lot more uncomfortable and a lot more painful, especially if it's deep scaling! Clock On, Russ :>(
Not entirely sure. Looks and feels like a miniature angle grinder, water and grit flying everywhere lol.
Hey I've seen people recommending people to put in many fans in a case to optimize airflow, but people tend to concentrate on the exhaust fans and not nearly as much on the intake fans. Now wouldn't a neutral airflow be the best for cooling?
abuzar1, If I'm understanding your question right, the answer would be no. Most cases today have air vents for specific purposes, such as mine does for cooling the video card, concentrating on exhaust with more exhaust than intake assures that plenty of air moves through those vents. The trick is, is to be able to remove all the heat from the case. As near as I can figure, the front fan gives better cooling in the area of the hard drives and promotes good airflow past them. Between the two Silverstones and the power supply which all exhaust, I figure I have a minimum of 125 cfm moving through the case at all times. When the temps go up the power supply and the CPU fans both increase their speed and the cfm goes up as high as about 190 cfm or so! This increases the amount of air coming into the various vent holes in the case. On mine, I've replaced the static CPU air duct with the 80mm Silverstone so that it is an exhaust rather than a static intake. I've found that the air duct airflow interferes with the path of the airflow of the CPU fan as it blows through the cooler. By making it an exhaust instead, nothing interferes with the cpu fan's ability to move the air cleanly through the cooler so the cpu fan runs slower and quieter! Typically between 800-1000 rpm. If I let the cpu fan run at full speed, the CPU temperature goes up a few degrees! I think that this is a by-product of the very dry air where I live in Southern California, as dry air doesn't absorb as much heat as humid air. By slowing the airflow through the cooler, it has time to collect more heat! These are my typical fan speeds and temps. From left to right: rear case fan, cpu fan, video card, core 1, core 2, CPU, chipset and CPU idle speed. I use C1E in the bios so the processor only runs full speed when needed. Makes no difference in benchmarks, either! Clock On, theone
Alright so since my motherboard was in for repair I haven't had the chance to ever actually use a Core 2 Duo. Now that I'm about to get my motherboard on Monday I was wondering what is the best way to put arctic silver on my CPU, or should I put it on my heatsink? I am using the stock heatsink btw. I say the instructions on arctic silvers website but I just wanted to make sure if that was the best way.
abuzar1, Everyone and their mother have a "sure fire" way of applying Arctic Silver. The Arctic Silver people have a method shown on their website that works well. http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm Just click on Intel or AMD! I follow their instructions only I do an X instead of a line. Seems to work well and I don't get much excess! I've tried other methods and haven't really seen any difference unless you get too much on it. The Techs at Artic Silver recommend applying a little bit to the cooler and then wiping it off lightly with a rag. They claim that this takes care of any imperfections in the surface of the cooler. If you have an Arctic Freezer series, I would use what comes on it as it works just as good as Arctic Silver or Ceramique! I've tried all 3 with the same cooler and they all work pretty much the same! For the chipset heatsinks, I just clean everything real good and put a dab on the chip and re-mount the heatsink. Did wonders for my D-940 as it dropped the chipset temp 13C! Clock On, theone :>)
The method I use is to put a thin line that runs most of the way down the middle of the CPU, leaving the heatsink bare, and placing it on top.
sammorris, I just do the X. about 3/4" long, and about 1/8" wide right in the center of the CPU, because I can never remember which direction the core goes! LOL!! Works though, and there's little or no excess! Clock On, theone:>)
hey guys what's up? So I have an old Compaq and I used arctic silver on the cpu heatsink and the temps went from high 50s and sometimes low 60s to 40s. So being the brilliant man that I am I decided to use arctic silver on my northbridge heatsink! Only that didn't work out as planned. The damn thing had sticky pink stuff on it that was a b*tch to get off, so again being the brilliant person that I am I decided to use a credit card to get it off. now well a lot of it is off, but not all and i'm stuck with my htc. any ideas on how to get I off.
abuzar1, I use automotive fuel injector cleaner, the kind you add to the gas tank. Works good. When it's clean I use alcohol to finish up! Clock On, theone :>)
Fuel injector, what's that like, Stabil? Also there was a foam border all around it. I don't have any sandpaper right now but yeah I probably could. I decided to get back on my pc, and speedfan shows no real temp difference so I guess I'm good for now. EDIT: Thermal epoxy, is that like thermal paste plus glue? Why would they need that since it has two metal rods keeping it tight against the motherboard. Although I think you are right since I touched it and it was sticky.
Alright so I got my E6400 up and running, now only there is one problem. I am using stock HSF and and at stock speed I am getting 50+ Celcius in temp. EDIT: I took off the HSF and tried to remount it. The Arctic Silver was spread very unevenly. I have some pics of it, sorry about the quality I has to use my BB Pearl. EDIT: Well I reaseated the heatsink and now I only get temops around 50C if I have the thing overclocked to 3.2 Ghz.
That's better! At full speed, my temps max at about 49C on a hot day, and around 46C on a cold day, at 3.0.