The Official Cooling Thread!

I never increased the voltage. So even though its a big change in speed the temps are gonna be the same? BTW isn't this a little hot as my temps are idling at around 52-55, not maxing out at that.
EDIT: Oh and for some reason speedfan cant control my fan speeds.

 

They are a bit warm, but with the stock cooler that's to be expected.

 

Now imagine if I had a Thermalright 120 Ultra.
EDIT: Oh and any ideas on the speedfan thing?

 

What about it?

 

abuzar1,

Check your CPU voltage. It shouldn't need to be much past 1.325v at that speed. The Stock cooler should work a lot better than that. I know it did on the E4300 of Ginas'! Shouldn't be much difference as the cores are all the same, aside from binning! What MB are you using?

I've never had any success with Speed fan on either my Asus P5P800SE or the GigaByte DS3. I'm much happier with the MB controlling the CPU fan speed through the setup, and fans that have individual speed controls! It gives much more positive fan control for the case fans!

Clock On,
theone :>)

 

The voltage is at 1.280 v, is that low? Sorry I'm kinda new at this stuff. I have the DS3 and I want to run all the fans at full speed all the time. Noise doesn't bother me all that much. Do you guys have any recommendations for 120 mm fans that move A LOT of air but are around 10-15 bucks? I included a cpuz screenshot.

 

cpu-z is a good utility but don't rely on it for cpu voltage. it is seldom accurate. see what it is set at in the bios.

your cpu temp is excessive even for an oem hsf.

 

Alright, thanks. I'll go check right now.

 

1.325v, and my memory is 2.2v.
EDIT: Memory was 1.8v but I guess this is high performance memory or something and on Crucial's website it said 2.2v so I increased it. I haven't messed with the CPU voltage though.

 

abuzar1,

Just to let you know, sometimes running all the fans at top speed results in higher temps because the air is moving so fast that it doesn't have the time to pick up enough heat. I know this may sound strange, but I can prove it if you would like. Much depends on how dry your climate is. In dryer climates like where I live I use a 120mm Silverstone FM-121 which is capable of 110 cfm at 2400 rpm. I run my rear case fan at 1400 rpm and the cfm is about 70-75 cfm. A lot depends on what case you are using and whether it has static air vents in the side cover. I replaced the CPU air duct with an 80 mm Silverstone FM-83 drawing air out running at it's lowest speed which is 1300 rpm at about 25 cfm. The original CPU air duct was interfering with the airflow of the CPU cooler, causing it to run warmer. Also if your case has a front intake fan and side vents, then you want it to be about 25-30 cfm at max speed. It's enough airflow over and around the hard drives and allows the side and rear (in my case) vents to draw lots of cool air to cool the video card. I have my Freezer 7 Pro fan controlled by the fan controller in the setup and it normally runs about 800-1000 rpm at idle. The freezer 7 is PWM so I run it in PWM mode! If you are running the F11 bios, go back to the F10! I've tried the F11, and it runs a good deal warmer overall! With an E6400, you don't need F11 as it's only for the xx20 series like the E6420, etc.

Which revision is your DS3? I have v1.33. If you have the same version, do not use bios F12! It's only made for v1.0. The downloads for the v1.33 are only available on the Gigabyte USA website! Speedfan doesn't show any fan speeds or acurate temps on my MB so I use Everest Ultimate 2007, which works fine and agrees with the bios!

Clock On,
theone :>)

 

Oh DAMN. I have rev 3.3 and I flashed F12 BIOS. Ill go back to the F10 then. I am using a Ultra Grid case. One intake fan in front on in back. VGA vent and CPU cooler duct. Also I live in Orlando, Florida so its not that dry.

 

abuzar1,

I'm willing to bet it came with the F10 installed! Sometimes the latest bios is not always the best one!

Clock On,
theone :>)

 

abuzar1,

Your case is about the same as mine ventilation wise, so I would leave the front fan as is, Put an FM-121 in the rear, throw away the CPU duct and replace it with an FM-83 mounted flange out and it should do a great job of cooling. The FM-83 comes with a slot mount for 3 individual controls, so you wouldn't have to worry about where to put the control for the 120!

Also, if you haven't modded the chipset heatsink with AS5, than you need to consider doing it. What are your MB temps? If they are consistently lower than 40C, then leave it alone. It's a pain as you almost always have to pull the MB to do it! Before that, I would check very carefully to make sure the CPU cooler is flat on the CPU and not being caught by something! Your temps are 20+C higher than my E4300, and that shouldn't be. See what happens with the F10 bios as I'm sure the temps will drop!

Your package is sent!

Best Regards,
Russ :>)

 

Pull the motherboard to replace the CPU cooler? The only time I've had to do that is with the CNPS7000Alcu Zalman, because it used a backplate.

 

Thanks theone, I just downloaded it. I think I'll flash F10 BIOS now and report the changes. My chipset temps are around 43C. You meant that I should put a fan blowing air out the cpu air duct?

Thanks,
Abuzar.

EDIT: With the F10 BIOS my chipset temps dropped a few degrees. My CPU temps however dropped about 10. My Core #0, Core #1 temp are around 52, but my CPU temps are around 40 now. Before the CPU temps were in the 50s also.

BTW man this utility is AWESOME. Thanks.

 

abuzar1,

I assume that it has a plastic duct inside that's mounted to the side cover with 4 screws. Most cases like that do. What I meant is to replace the duct completely with a fan exhausting out the cover of the case. The duct is usually the same footprint as an 80mm fan, so the holes should match the fan. The results with mine have been much better than I ever expected they would be! There's also less dust that gets inside the case!

Depending on how big the holes are in the screen on the front of the air duct hole, you may want to consider something less restrictive with larger holes in it.

No I was talking about the Northbridge heatsink! I put a 40x20mm 6 cfm Silenex fan on the heatsink on mine. It runs 3000 rpm but is fairly quiet doing it. I had an Evercool first, but it screamed too loud! I've never seen the MB temp go over 41C since then, and that was only while running OCCT.

Clock On,
theone :>)

 

Yeah thats what I meant, because you're right it is as large as a 80mm fan. I ran Everest stress tests and the temps got to over 60C in 1:29. That's one minute.

Theone, what were your chipset temps like before applying the arctic silver? BTW do you have a difference of about 10 degrees between the CPU temps and the Core temps? I'm guessing because of the newer BIOS the programs are just reading the temps different.

 

My temps only get to 60C if I run my fan at 55% speed and play games for at least 40 minutes, and my room get very warm as well. In order to overclock well, a better cooler is usually compulsary.

 

abuzar1,

I was hitting 47C most of the time. Now I see 35 to 40C.

Yes I do, but on mine the only thing that increased was the CPU temp. The cores remain the same. That's why I went back to the F10, because the core temps didn't change and the CPU fan ran much higher and made more noise.

I don't really like to run burn-in software on an overclocked machine. I think it puts an un-realistic amount of stress on the components. You will never see that kind of stress in real world use. I think it's fine for a stock setup to check everything before you overclock, but I think it's a bit much after you've done the overclock. I prefer to run Prime95 for 24 hours. I've yet to have OCCT fail if it runs OK for the first 30 minutes. I've run it for 8 and 12 hours, but I just don't think it's a realistic test and it places far too much stress on everything! Just my opinion!

Clock On,
theone :>)

 

I think I'd agree there, my CPU temps get higher with OCCT then I ever see them normally.