The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!

Yes, but how stable will depend on you OS and other components, especially PSU. My testing with the E6300 were on a P5B Wi-Fi, BIOS 0507, Zalman CNPS9500Led and SilverStone 600W quad 12v w/ EATX +12v and OCZ Platinum DDR800 OCd to DDR1000 (swopped for DDR100 OCd to 1100). Day 1 break in was 370x7 = 2.59GHz @ 1.350v, 1;1 DDR870. Next it took to 425x7 = 2.95GHz, then 525x7 = 3.6 (hot & not too stable, the P5B got hot). This BIOS 0507 unlocks it to x6 for a high 532x6 = 3.19GHz @ 1:1 DDR1066 (100% FSB). Now for me it ran in the red a lot under DVD renduring and 49c= under average work. I no longer have it to test, but I'd bet it could be more stable with water cooling or at least the CNPS9700-NT I got on the E6600. The E6600 barely hit 495FSB on that mobo & BIOS.

So I am very suprised that the P5W-DH can't keep up with the lesser !965P at the 450+ FSB. But keep in mind, not every CPU of the same rev. will OC the same, or the same mobo & rev.

Example; I had 1 ASUS P4C800-E hit 325 (P4E 4.5 hot & sloppy under load, but just for test) and another weakened @ 275, or the same P4 Prescott 3.4E hit 4.1GHz satble but another sloppy @ 3.85. When both poor parts together OC was usually stable as daily user @ 266x14 for 3.73GHz 1:1.

BIOS 14xx+ should unlock E6300 to only 6 & 7. You will need 6x to hit the 500+ FSB I'm sure. Consider a Thermalright copper heat pipe sink with 120mm fan or water cooler to be more stable under load. I noticed even if you cen load to desktop, they get hot real quick, so keep em' cool and you shold have some fun overclocking.

As I mentioned, the Intel E6300 for me @ $149 US dollars was a great OCr' bargin. Just like the P4 506 (2.66/533FSB) on P5AD2-E to hit 4.0GHz on air. Same for my D-805 on P5WD2.

 

bigdk what do you think are good temps for my system e6300 @ 2.975ghz on a p5w dh deluxe at idle and full load?

 

Here are the pictures of what my system runs at.
You can see that the motherboard temp only changes by 1`C with 100% load on both cores.
The CPU temps are obviously raised quite high with ITAT, but thats the best way to stress the cores and see what the max temp is.
Obviously when normal running, I never have any application that can get the cores that high.
My CPU is watercooled, as is the GPU, but the NB is only cooled with the setup I posted earlier.
If you work within those temps you'll not do any damage, you should be able to take the NB up to mid 40s before you hit any problems.

 

I was thinking to switch to water cooling fot intel based cpu's socket S775 any suggestions ?
Also any good guides for water cooling setups?

I liked these two models until now any comments?

Zalman Reserator 2 Fanless Water Cooling System

Alphacool Cool Answer III 120 Compact 12V Laing-Pro-AGB-Edition High End

 

ok i got the 4pin to 3pin converter but the fun controller still isnt working i no the fan controller works because i found a 3pin fan and it was controlling it

does anyone have any ideas, what i noticed on the 4pin to 3pin is that the 3pin female which goes into the fan controller has a black and yellow wire instead of a black and red wire could this be the problem??

 

You would always be better off going for a self built system rather than a pre-built watercooling setup.

The Swiftech Storm is a quality CPU block (considered on of the best) similar to Apogee but better quality, its very easy to mount.

Pump I went for the laing D5, its not cheap, but then again the parts its cooling aren't cheap either, so I wasn't taking any chances, its also very quiet.

Radiator, its up to you, I went for copper only not aluminium, as I didn't want a mix in the system, plus I cleaned mine with white vinegar before installing, and you can't do that with the ali ones.
Size depends on how much heat you want to be able to get rid of, the passive ones won't cool as well as the rads.
You couls also look at getting a heat exchanger instead of the rad, they're more expensive but work better, or even get a chiller, which will work instead of the rad, and will allow you to cool right down to the dew point of your room which could be as much as 10`C lower than ambient.

Tubing and barbs, I wouldn't touch anything lower than 1/2" barbs 7/16" tubing. You could go with 1/2" tubing as well, but with 7/16" you will get a really tight fit by heating the tube end with boiling water then pushing it over, when it cools, its a solid fit.

If you intend to cool the GPU then Dangerden of EK are some of the best.

As for chipset, its generally agreed that its a waste of time and money watercooling than, but otherwise if you do it will depend on what board you buy to which one you can use.

If you say what parts you want to cool, and where you are US/UK I'll put a parts list together and a brief guide on what goes where.

 

Thnaks

Basically I want to cool my Cpu only but haven't got any idea on mounting a custom built water cooling sytem, I will choose whatever you think its suits best for me as long as it gets the lowest as possible. (UK)

 

Thanks

Basically I want to cool my Cpu only but haven't got any idea on mounting a custom built water cooling sytem, I will choose whatever you think its suits best for me as long as it gets the lowest as possible. (UK)

 

I'll put a list together either tonight or tomorrow, with a few choices, all the parts will work together which ever you choose, and will be a complete order, so nothing is left off when you're putting it together.

You can cut it down if you find some parts can be obtained elsewhere or you already have them.

I'm in the UK so I can use the same places I use.

 

Thanks very kind of you

I usally like scanuk since i'm not always in the uk and always got good service.

 

Scan are okay generally, but have a really crap selection for watercooling kit.
You basically just need the following:
A 775 compatible CPU block.
A Pump with 1/2" push fittings.
A Radiator either passive (not my choice) or active (uses fans) then just decide if you want a single double or triple.
The bigger you get the better the thing will et rid of heat, but all would work fine, obviously the triples will normally be more expensive, and require more fans.
So remember to buy enough 12cm fans for the rad you buy if you go for active.
You could also replace the rad with a water chiller, which will allow cooling of the block to just below ambient (humidity depending)
A Reservoir, to allow you to fill the system and top it up.
Next you just need to mount them in a way that allows you to put the tubing in nice and neat and with as little slack as possible, but you must think ahead as to how you intend to empty the system in the future.
I went for a slightly longer tubing to the pump, so it could be removed from case and then the tube removed.
You could opt for a t-piece and run a line of tube with a stop in he end, this can then just be pulled from case and opened when required.
You need to make a decison on what size tube you will use, I would recommend 1/2" fittings with 7/16" tube or 1/2" if you can't get the 7/16".
For each device you will need 2 barbs, these will use 1/4" thread and have 1/2" push fit barbs.
So for the rad you'll need 2, 2 for the res the pump will have them built in, and the cpu block will have them supplied (at least the Swiftech ones will).
Next you'll need a roll of PTFE tape, to wrap around the 1/4" threads when they are inserted, and also tube clips to hold the tubes in place.
If you go for 7/16" tube, it will hold on its own, but still use clips, because the results of a leak will be bad.
You then need to think about what coolant you want to use.
Never use tap water, it will kill your system.
You can use distilled water which you then add an additive to, this is to stop bacteria growing and corrosion, you can also add a dye to make it look nice.
You can also buy bottled water that is pre-mixed with inhibitor.
Don't use de-ionised water, as it will try to iniose itself from the systems metal.
Or you can use a non conductive fluid such as MCT or Fluid XP, the latter being seriously priced, MCT was my choice.
Non conductive fluid will not cause damage if there is a leak, although technically distilled water shouldn't either.
Personally after spending £1000+ on a system I wasn't going to worry about £15 on coolant.
So once you have decided what parts to go for, you need to decide where you'll mount them, make sure that you have enough room to put things where they need to go.
For mounting the rad, you could use the Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 Revision 2 £16.99 form chilled PC.

The places I use are Specialtech, Coolercases, chilledpc, the coolingshop and over-clock and all are in the UK.
The trouble is they all have good parts but none stock everything I would buy for a total system.
Specialtech have very good priced rads, and the storm cPU block, but don't do 7/16" tubing.
You'll probably be looking at 2-3 orders to get everything.
CPU Block would be Swiftech Storm G4, or Apogee
Radiator Alphacool nexus extreme series (good quality, heat transfer and cheap)
Pump Laing pumps are the best D5 or D4 with 1/2" barb fittings.
Reservoir depends if you want in internal or extrenal.
Tube Maskleer 7/16" or Tygon

Here are a few links.

http://store.over-clock.com/Swiftech_Blocks.html
SWIFTECH STORM G4 £57.13

HTTP://STORE.OVER-CLOCK.COM/PUMPS___ACCESSORIES.HTML
LAING D5-VARIO (1/2") £64.53

http://store.over-clock.com/Reservoirs.html
CLEAR BAY RESERVOIR WITH BLUE LED - 5.25" £20.68
or
HTTP://STORE.OVER-CLOCK.COM/RESERVOIRS.HTML
EK MULTI-OPTION RES150 £24.49

HTTP://STORE.OVER-CLOCK.COM/TUBING.HTML
7/16" ID (9/16" OD THINWALLED) MASTERKLEER PVC TUBING £0.35 PER FOOT

CPU Water Blocks
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2832&cat=545&page=1
Swiftech Storm CPU block £52.29

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=3394&cat=545&page=1

Swiftech Apogee GT Extreme £37.54

Pumps
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2381&cat=537&page=1
Laing D5-Pump 12V 1/2" tubing connection w Speed Sensor £62.49


http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2380&cat=537&page=1
Laing D4-Pump 12V 1/2" tubing connection £43.87

Reservoirs
Internal
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2742&cat=548&page=1
XSPC 5.25" Drive Bay Reservoir £19.99

External
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=1692&cat=550&page=1#tabs

Alphacool Cape Coolplex 10 external £15.99









Radiators
Twin Active
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=1686&cat=541&page=1

Alphacool NexXxos Xtreme II Radiator with 1/4" female thread £25.99

Single Active
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2963&cat=541&page=1

Black Ice GT Stealth I 120mm Radiator £26.75

Passive
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2168&cat=542&page=1

Alphacool Cape CORA 442 Passive cooling kit midi in black £63.00

Chiller
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2395&cat=575&page=1

Waterchiller Titan 150 £279

Coolant
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=1959&cat=559&page=1

Alphacool Tec-Protect-UV blue 1 Litre £7.69 x1 or 2 to be safe and for spare.


http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=3199&cat=514&page=1
Fluid XP+ EXTreme Midnight Blue UV £26.99 x1 or 2

Tubing
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=3414&cat=570&page=1
XSPC High Quality 1/2" Tubing @ £2.49 per Mtr

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=3417&cat=570&page=1
Tygon 1/2" Tubing £8.99 per Mtr

Barbs
Alphacool Screw Connection G1/4" for 1/2" Hose £1.05 x4

http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2192&cat=583&page=1
PTFE tape for sealing all screw in connections £1.99


Clips
Alphacool Hose Clips 15-17mm tubing £0.49 x8

Tools (not required)
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2194&cat=583&page=1

Alphacool hose clamp for 2mm upto 15mm £4.19 x2


http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=1957&cat=583&page=1

Alphacool Plastic Funnel £1.10

 

Thanks man,

I was wondering but i doubt if it would work, would it be possible to use nitrogen instead of water?

 

Nice idea.
Maybe just look at getting a phase cooler.
£500 or less from eBay (theres a seller on there that deals with coolers) then you're looking at sub zero temps.
They're not that hard to install either, not too different from a waterblock.
If you start to use Nitrogen, then you'll need a different setup, also not sure where you'd actually lay your hands on it (scary stuff-not for me).

 

What are the risks of nitro?
Do I have to refil the phase cooler with nitro often?

sub-zero temps no does that allow good cpu operation since electronics must have some kind of heat trace for operation?

 

Phase coolers don't use liquid nitrogen, they use coolants that are used in refrigeration.
They are sealed systems, so will only need to be refilled if thee is a problem.
http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=1793
http://www.extremeoverclocking.com/reviews/cooling/Asetek_VapoChill_LS_1.html
You'll get more info here.
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/forumdisplay.php?f=183
As far as I know, you can't use nitrogen at all unless you have certification to have it, as it's so dangerous.
You can run CPUs well below freezing point, there are some that have suffered from cold bugs, not sure which though.

 

I took a look to this website where's therea cpu with a kind white seal around it do you have to apply that, and what is it?

http://www.cluboverclocker.com/reviews/super_cooling/mach2gt/p3.htm

And Also will the cpu work right at those temperatures?

 

Its probably Dielectric Grease.
Most CPUs will run fine at those temps.
If you do a search for Conroe OC database then you'll see quite a few systems running phase.

 

synteck,
Liquid Nitrogen is indeed very dangerous stuff as it boils many times colder than ambient, It's boiling point is 195.8 °C (77.35 °K, -320.44 °F). If some were to spill on you hand or arm you would lose it as it would freeze solid instantly. You definately need protective equipment to even handle it. A single drop could do irreversible damage to any living thing. Not something for the average computer enthusiast to be messing around with.

theone

 

i got the 4pin to 3pin converter conected the vantec tornados to the akas junior controller but the fun controller still isnt working i no the fan controller works because i tested it with a 3pin fan

does anyone have any ideas, what i noticed on the 4pin to 3pin is that the 3pin female which goes into the fan controller has a black and yellow wire instead of a black and red wire could this be the problem??

 

But is Dielectric Grease required for that setup?

theonejrs
Thanks for that but until now i haven't seen any commercial cpu blocks which use nitrogen probably for many reasons, yet unsafe, thus experiments reviel the true power of nitrogen, is there a similar liquid but less risky than it?