Owning a P5N-E Russ, would you be able to test how hot the chipset heatsink gets? Mine stays in the low 40s usually, maybe higher 40s if I've been playing games for a while with the fans on low. However, the heatsink is so outrageously hot, it has pretty much the same scalding effect as a kettle. Are all P5N-Es like this?
NuckNFuts You are in the position to do exactly what you're asking everyone else to do. You have the mobo, so you are in the best position out of everyone to do the testing and find what the optimal settings are, its not easy but someone has to do it. How do you think that anyone gets systems OC'd in the 1st place, it’s by playing and testing? I do see your point, that there are more comments and quotes from other sources, than real hands on tips from experience, but that is because this is not the correct forum for serious overclockers to visit. I would suggest you spend the time looking for better sites where the users are more technical and are inclined to take risks and see OC'ing as a hobby and a challenge rather than something to just dabble with. There are quite a few good sites, if you PM me I'll give you the details, rather than doing it here. AD is a very good site for a broad range of topics to be covered in one place but most areas are covered in far more detail in various other dedicated sites.
sammorris, I don't know! Gina's runs almost cold compared to some I've seen and heard about. I didn't even Mod the heat sink. The temp was so low I didn't want to touch it. The heat sink on that MB was very thin and the fins tapered down as they came up. Different from the first and second motherboards. With the Freezer 7 Pro it's about 30C and it hasn't even cured yet! I did put a passive heat sink on the Southbridge just because I had one laying around. Happy Computering, Russ
BigDK, I built it but it's not mine. I'll quit mentioning it. It's just the way Sam asked like it was mine or something. Sam, Take note I don't own one, just built it. I want to get my new project going. It's been dry here and I suffer from "Dollar Drought" at the moment. Still need memory and video. Then I can proceed! Best, theone
Sorry to keep bring it up, but you're someone who I know will have dealt with one. The actual temperature is fine on screen, but the heatsink itself is incredibly hot.
BigDK; "You are in the position to do exactly what you're asking everyone else to do." "YES" I will, and I have so far. Nobody has asked anything about my ig per say. I have mostly helped with set up questions. I am doing just that, testing my rigs for stability. I am not a "pro" but much like most of us hear just learned a lot as I came along. I have only bean doing this since the 1st days of the Intel Pentium II on the rock solid classic ASUS P2B (still running , for the record). I am happy to share my specs & settings if you'll do the same. Once again, if you guys get to a OC that you like and feel is stable, then I would like to know the configuration (volts & BIOS settings) to factor into my own testing. Like what volts to move and why you felt you had to up them and how well it ran afterwords. Or the just simply your overall satisfaction and experience with the given mobo in use for you OC. So regulars and noobz especially, feel free to post or PM and I'll do my best to add to the help forum as it is intended
sammorris; "Are all P5N-Es like this?" I own the bigger brother to it as the P5N32-SLI and "YES" they get hot too. Mine came with 2 fans you can clip to the core stacks on the PWR mosfets to add cooling (inteded for use on water cooled rigs where you'd have no airflow here). So I had to add them to keep the NB to below 40c (bk to 36c). The same on CROSSHAIR, I will add the fan to copper core stack to see if it brings down the temp. All my ASUS mobos since the 2nd generation A8N have bean heat pipe cooled. In my opinion, they do not discharge the heat fast enough as could be desighned. Especially on the nVidia, wich already get nice & hot. The material is usually just large aluminum, copper plated or small copper w/ too thick fins & very minimal sink to pipe contact and undersized at that. Since you need to use the bonus fans to cool (back to the noise we wanted to loose), might as well go back to passive cool with large, dedicated heat pipe cooler for NB chipset w/ tiny fan, mini copper sink w/ fan for SB, & plain copper radiators for mosfets. I even added copper blocks to clock gen and other hot ICs & chips (VGA type used for GDDR chips). I am in the works of converting a P5W-DH to water just as I now have water blocks for the PWR mosfets and chipsets.
Thing is, the heatsink does an ok job, its just one big chunk of metal (so big my cpu heatsink only fits one way round, and thats a small HS), but I'm curious to compare the heat output of the two chipsets, nf4 sli and nf650. that teeny little sink with the fan unplugged ran cooler than this does.
NuckNfuts, Actually from what I understand the P5N-E is the better overclocker. It's also supposed to be much easier! Sam, The heat sink does not get very hot at all. I was very surprised because I expected it to. The one in my P5P800 gets hotter by far! The heat sink on this one is barely warm to the touch. The 2nd MB you could cook hot dogs on! It got that hot, in the 42C range! Happy Computering, theone
esoteric 3ghz=1.35v (default voltage) 3/3.2ghz=1.4v 3.2upwards=1.45v nucknfuts you have some nice bits of kit there and that explains why you have a good oc. if you want to know what to use for testing heres some links. http://www.xtremesystems.com/pi/super_pi_mod-1.5.zip good for seeing the improvements your oc has made as is this, http://www.sisoftware.co.uk/index.html?dir=dload&location=sware_dl_3264&langx=en&a= http://www.overclock.net/attachment...20060420-orthos_exe_20060420.zip?d=1165737486 personal fave for hurting my cpu, other swear by this, http://www.ocbase.com/download/OCCTPT1.1.0.zip some should just download ohteers you will need to pick a mirror close to you.
A new mobo wasnt the best news I could have wanted but hey, at least this way I can upgrade to pc6400 ram aswell as my current mobo only supports 5300. Ive got cooling in hand now, Ive just got a Themaltake Bach VX vf4000bws because the airflow in std case was limited. Ive also got a Zalman VF700 vga cooler, also a Thermalright HR-05 Northbridge Cooler which is big but passive, with the option to add a fan if needed. Ive got a Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro (LGA775) for my cpu but now reading more reviews it seems that this might not be up to the clocking job, does anyone have any experience with this? Shall I just get water cooling and have done with it....? Ive been looking in to gigabyte boards, Ive got a budget of £100-£180 max any recomendations?
The DS3 and the DQ6 are the ones I hear being raved about, don't know how they compare to Asus boards though. What with that kit, one could almost consider you being a quietpc enthusiast like me! The Thermalright HR coolers are monsters, and they often don't require the extra fan. I use my HR-03 on an X1900XT and that runs cooler without the 92mm fan. You just need decent case ventilation. You'll be fine with a Freezer 7 Pro, I use mine for a 67% overclock, and the temperature is only a problem if i have the fan speed set to minimum, and that wasn't even a problem before I made my graphics card fanless (I currently have it sucking air away from my graphics card, rather than just blowing air from the case past the CPU and out).
tinytom, EDIT!!! I was going to recommend the Gigabyte GA-965P-DS3 ver. 1.33, but at $99 US at Newegg but it may be over your budget. I just bought one for my E4300 build and will be reporting my progress hopefully by next weekend. It's so new that the manual isn't even up to spec and I had to go to GigaByte to confirm certain things about it. It does support the Quad Core Extreme, has a native 1333 FSB and has 6 stage power regulation, so for the price it's an excellent buy! No Firewire though! Unfortunately, as Sam pointed out by the exchange rate, it costs about 190 Pounds in Great Britain. Maybe you can find this version somewhere local for you at a decent price. The 965P Express is one of the best chipsets for the C2Ds right now so I went with it as I had all sorts of problems with the Asus P5N-E, having to replace the MB twice. The third time was the charm though and it's running just fine now. A few minor quirks but I'm confident that once nVidia gets all the kinks out and gets down to a better bios revision it will be a great MB! Sincerely, theone
The exchange rate isn't quite that bad: http://www.dabs.com/productview.asp...&SearchKey=All&SearchMode=All&NavigationKey=0
I am trying to quieten my pc! The better half moans that is buzzes and hums all night when I leave it on downloading! It is only std at the moment tho. I went for the AC 7 pro because of the amazing price and thought it has to be worth trying for £13.99! (ebay) Im also going to set the zalman vga cooler to silent mode and hope this copes ok. Most of my noise is coming from my psu, so Ive ordered the Thermaltake W0093 - TR2-500W psu as it has a single 120mmfan which sucks in from the top so Im also hoping this will help vent the top of the case a little better? Just need to get a good mobo to start chucking everything on to now, I wish I had just custom built in the first place, but this was a good place to start.
Don't worry, I haven't ever built a PC from scratch entirely, they al ended up as pre-builds, but the last two have had every component modified entirely, so they may as well have been. My Thermaltake PSU is relatively quiet at idle (and few systems should trigger the fan speed to rise at all), but I dislike the noise character. The model sound quality of Nexus case fans is what makes the system quiet as much as the sound level itself. However, through various methods, I've turned a PC from something that was positively loud into something near-silent. Having my Hard disks shut down when inactive has helped me out there too!
don't get the evga 680i board it's full of flaws and evga are no help at all WE generally stick to asus boards the top end ones are great