The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!

they're not. hop on a boat and come on over. even if I could hear them, I could care less. they are doing exactly what I intended them to do. I'm all about cooling and a little fan noise doesn't bother me. they all have to compete with the fan on my X850XT running at only 36% and they're gonna have to make one hellofa lot of noise to drown it out.

 

Sam,

I ran the design through my air turbine software and discovered a few things different from any other fan that I've ever come across.

First thing I noticed is that most of the air comes straight out of the fan and doesn't spread. Traditionally the housing used to do that job because it was an easy way to direct and confine the air movement, but that caused problems because of high speed turbulence against the fan housing. What siLenX has done is radically change how the air comes off the blade, as there is almost no turbulence off of the housing and the airflow doesn't spread out near as much as a conventional design. This alone makes it much quieter as there's a lot less actual air contact with the housing. It's exactly the same with the propellers of a ship.

The water cast off by the propellers turbulence hitting the hull of a ship is what makes all the vibration and noise. Air does the same thing in a fan that has a housing. If you can stop the air from hitting the fan housing, you eliminate a lot of noise. Sort of the same approach as Arctic did with mounting the fan in a light open frame, only siLenX took that one step further and drasticly cut down the amount of air that moves to the side and made more of it go forward un-impeded. Add to that the reduced size of the hub/motor and you get more useful surface area on the blades towards the center which improves the direction even more! Their design solution is brilliant, and it works! I'll find out next week when Russell gets back from Yuma next week and I order the siLenX 120mm case fan. I might just be able to hear the HSF running for once! LOL!!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Lol well perhaps, we shall see. I wonder why SPCR haven't reviewed one yet.

 

I know this isn't an O/C question, but it may have something to do with my o/c. Anyway. Y'all know I got me a K7S5A (Rev1.0) and it's all old and everything. Well, now I randomly get the wrong CPU speed with the BIOS. It does not recognize my XP-M 2800+ Barton, but it will run it. It has always "claimed" that the CPU speed with 2200 MHz when not o/c. Well, a mild O/C brings it almost right at 2200MHz. Now, my mobo says "occasionally" that the CPU speed it 2267MHz, then a reboot will flash it back to what it is supposed to be. Also, I had to remove my X1650's drivers to get past a problem with no GUI when I'd boot. (Actually, GUI would boot, just wouldn't display anything). Also noticed a capacitor looked like it was bulging at the top (does that mean anything?; my friend's Asus board has some bulging and leaking and it died years ago). If I need to replace my mobo, what's a decent socket a mobo w/ DDR and AGP8x? I intend to build a C2D Quad system toward the end of the year, but I need my baby to work!! =\

Any help/advice is always appreciated.

 

I'm not certain the issues are related, but a bulged capacitor means new motherboard time. New motherboard time is probably therefore new processor, RAM etc. time. Grats on getting that much service out of an old ECS motherboard.

 

Sam,

From what I can tell, these are fairly new. So new that the packaging specs on one of the 120mm case fans is incorrect as they based the specs on design estimates, and went conservative. It's actually better than the specs on the box! I certainly hope they have it patented as it's definately going to change the standard of noise levels in modern computers, drasticly! Wished I'de of thought up the design!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Have they changed then? The one you showed me looked very similar to the SilenX design I saw years ago.

 

Sam,

I remember when I was getting some fan info for you a while back that I didn't see anything like this, or I would have recommended you looking into one. As I recall, I recommended a Sythe!

I'll gamble the $22 or so and find out for myself. I'll let you know just how good they really are. The 40mm is virtually silent so I'm hoping the 120mm is just as quiet!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

I should think they'd be similar in terms of noise. Have a close listen to it, if it's better than the Scythe I'll consider one.

 

Too much fans can offset what we meant to do in the first place. Poorly ventallated cases and cluttered wiring too.

The ATX case does play one of the biggest rolls of cooling in the right setup. When new bk in 2003, I cooled a P4 Northwood on ASUS P4C800-E in an Antec P120-W case w/ 1 single PAPST 120mm rear outtake fan in conjunction w/ Zolman CNPS7000B, and OCZ PowerStream w/ 120mm inverted (inside case to blow air up and out bk). area for 120mm fan in lower front was modded to reduce air restriction (remover mesh grill behind filter screen). But even this gave out some fan noise. But then I'm pickeier when it comes to noise on a system that I built for quietness. I have a friend theat can't hear the above rig when I can still hear the spin up of the HDD's and clicking of the HDD on/off during ACPI. With poor hearing, household frige would sound noiseless.

Now fans were added later as needed to cool down the newer Prescott and if RPM is set to work w/ , not against, it can help cool and not be much more noise. Too many people just throw in another fan and crank it up and have many in different directions adding just a little extra cooling but much more noise due to wind turbulance and thus actually restricting correct airflow to internal parts.

Make the Case do havlf the work and keep it sealed in the right areas and open it where need be and move the air in one uniform direction, not bk N' forth, round N' round. Bring cooled outside ait in from lower front to out the upper rear. an inverted PSU fan can aid in this keeping airflow in right direction (up and out). Side vent is OK if pulling air in from out to be directed directly over CPU cooler and still adding to exisrting airflow. But more of this aire is gonna need faster evacuation from the upper rear (more RPM) or we get turbulance noise. Even the leaks in the I/O and periffial slots can slow down this venting.

For best results, case and cool item seperately. Partition ATX to seperate HDD's and Optical Drives or mount HDD's externaly (cased) w/ optical drives. So many thing you can do. Or the largest Server ATX/BTX case you handle and water cool it. Today, we can cool just about everything, PSU, CPU, NB, SB, GPU's, Mosfets, HDD's etc.

But when I do need to air cool, I use a floor fan (contractors type used to cool wet floors and carpet) and except the noise as it is just temp.

 

NuckNFuts,

As I discovered by turning control of my HSF for the CPU cooler to the computer. The fan rarely runs anywheres near top speed and does a better job cooling. I would guess that the faster the air moves, the less heat it has time to absorb because it definately runs cooler then when I just let the fan blow at 2500 rpm! The fan control on my old MB wasn't near as good. Newer technology, I guess!

Happy Computering,
theone

 

This is pretty much true. Although for the CPU itslf, running higher is OK. In fact, at cold start, in BIOS controled cooling, it will always overspin to overcome CPU from heating too quickly. But as for the air flow, extra fans to aid when needed can work, just make them work together w/ eachother, not ainst.

 

NuckNFuts,

Not this one. It starts out at 600 rpm and generally settles down to about 1200 or so unless I'm encoding video. Then it can run as high as about 1900 rpm. Even running OCCT for 12 hours doesn't raise it over 1900 or so.

Air here is usually dry. This makes it a bit harder to cool the CPU as there's no moisture in the air to help cool the CPU. Slowing down the airflow a bit allows the air to absorb more heat. That's why air conditioners work best on lower fan settings. By slowing down the airflow it allows more heat to be removed from the air. Like right now, it's 29C in my room and the fan is running at 1200 rpm with the CPU temp 31C!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Hmm! Well on most gigh end mobos with OC'n or cool and quiet in mind they make up for this. ASUS is a good example. My P5ND32-SLI has a voltage boost setting otherwise, A: CPU will heat quicker and B: RPM below 600 trips BIOS warning sensors and will hold up on post till remedied (or CPU is hot by now, so restart will work this 2nd time around. Abit has always bean known for adjusting for this too, but usually just start at full trottle and adjust to temp as needed if ABIT-EQ is enabled. Mainly for the older DC 3-wire systems. The 4-wire is better controled and can be controled by CPU heat load directly, not just BIOS thermisters.

Happy Clockin'

 

The Asus Qfan software doesn't seem to ever run the fan below 1500rpm, which is disappointing, I disabled it. I'd ideally like to run my Freezer 7 with a manual fan controller, but I can't since the wire doesn't reach, and you can't extend a PWM fan cable. It's tempting to modify it, but a bit too much hassle for me.

 

Where are you at? Here In US, you buy off the shelf 3-wire extension cord for 3-wire min fan cable. And if it is the CPU control 4-wire and you dont want CPU or BIOS to control it, then can still extend with 3-wire cord just and set ASUS fan connecter to 3-wire DC mode for external fan controller.

 

Yeah but the point is it means chopping off the connector in exactly the right manner so it will fit in a 3 pin extension cable, I'd probably mess it up.

 

sammorris,

I took note this morning of the startup temps and fan. The fan speed was 500 rpm when I started the computer. It's a bit chilly this morning (57F) and the computers been on for about 10 min. The fan is now running at 700-800 rpm. very quiet!

Best Regards,
theone

 

500rpm? With a Freezer 7 Pro? Speedfan doesn't even go that low! 900 is my minimum. However, that said, 900rpm is completely silent and also, anything lower means the airflow is so low it may as well be off. 1000-1100rpm is about the point where it becomes audible, 1500 is where its audible above the rest of the PC, 2100 where it becomes loud.

 

sammorris,

I was a bit surprised too considering the Arctic is supposed to operate from 900 to 2500 rpm via PWM according to the box. Bravo, GigaByte! Most times the fan operates between 800 and 1000 rpm. I can't hear it over the noise of the stock Cooler Master 120mm (47 cfm) case fan on the back which is what I'll replace next. All I have to decide is whether I want the 72 cfm or the 90. The 72 is 14dBA while the 90 is 18dBA.

I'll more than likely go with the 72 cfm model as temps aren't a problem with my rig now, so it should do a great job and be much quieter.

I'm equally impressed with the company! I sent them an e-mail yesterday and by this morning they had replied to it. They also advised me to be careful where I purchase their fans as there are a lot of counterfiet ones available on E-Bay!

BTW! The computer has been on for over an hour and the CPU fan speed is still at 800 to 1000 rpm with a cPU temp of 27 to 28C. MB is 37C! I have to say that I do like the Everest Ultimate Edition 2007. It gives me all the info I'll ever need at a glance.

Happy Computering,
theone