The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!

Russ,

the concaveness of the contact plate is made that way intentionally to contact primarily the center of the cpu.

 

Mort81,

You certainly can't argue with the results! Wonder what would happen if they made one out of copper?

Clock On,
theone

 

it would most likely cool even better but talk about heavy! they would almost certainly have to incorperate a bracket of some kind to brace the top of the hs.

 

The 1st origional XP-120 aluminum finned model was built on copper heatpipes w/ aluminum fins to reduce weight. Of corse, IF the pipes were aluminum as well, they would weigh less, but then might need more air to keep as cool as before. Even the base is solid copper w/ nickel plating to brighten up all.

 

Mort81,

I always prefer Desktop cases to towers, but there just aren't any good ones made anymore. Maybe we will see a new trend develop. I always thought they made a great deal of sense. Put your monitor right on top of them with the keyboard and mouse right at hand. Frees up a lot of desktop space as well. Lets the CPU sit upright, along with the cooler so the natural progression of heat rises smoothly and is efficiently blown toward the rear and out by the rear case fan. Since heat rises, less would get trapped so the computer should run even cooler. Heat pipes would be more efficient as well as they were originally designed to be mounted that way. A bit like the old fashioned bubble lights for Christmas trees. Besides, desktops place a lot in a very small footprint. I know I would love my printer on the desk instead of having to be located elsewhere, but the console takes up that space.

Putting a tower on the floor here is not practical. Too much dust gets stirred up and sucked into the console when people just walk by, so it's relegated to the desktop, like it or not. Same thing with the sound system. It has a remote but in reality, it's very impractical. Using the SPDIF takes away my volume control on the keyboard, so it needs to be in reach. The high definition sound is awsome so I guess all of this is worth it.

I have to ask! Why the quest for a better cooler than what you have already? Are you looking to overclock higher and don't want to go to water? With mine I've reached the practical limit. My fsb is at 1456MHz and won't go higher no matter what multiplier I use. Temperatures are not an issue as mine Idles right at room temperature now. I seriously doubt that I could gain enough to make it worthwhile as the difference between 3.393GHz and 2.756 are slight. Now that I've got the memory running at 910MHz, it runs better than ever. Even when I set the memory to cas4, i didn't gain any MIPS and I only gained 41MB/s in bandwidth. Most 4300s I've come across are running between 2.7 and 3.0. I've even seen claims of 3.6 but I haven't seen any benches to back up those claims. It might be possible with the B's stepping on a high end MB, but it's not going to happen on an Asrock or ECS MB, definitely not with the L2's stepping. I may wind up putting an E4400 in as the 10x multi should let me get to 3.6 as I would only need the fsb to get to 350x4=1400, and the 800fsb of the 4400 shouldn't be a problem. we'll see!

Clock On,
theone

 

I'm sure I can speak for all the serious PC OC enthusiast to answer "YES" more or better cooling is always welcomed. Most by now know the ability of water, but air cooling is getting so much better these days that it is now easy to have medium OC on air w/ low noise and low maintainance. "YES" we like to know we can clock that much higher and nice to know we can quiet it down for m=normal use if need be. I use water for both quietness and cooling on my gaming or CAD system rig but air is better for my servers and main workstations and new test builds.

Descktops They are back but under a new class of media center PC's (HTPC) used to blend in w/ existing livingroom Hi-Fi components. They do cost more since usually more fancy. There is now a great selection of HTPC (descktops) cases to choose from. Most are aimed at small/low profile and lower wattage PSU, but good amount allow full ATX mobo and PSU w/ good venting through top. I use a large HTPC descktop w/ custom window top w/ direct vents to ported heatpiped sinks for various items, so not a good idea to put anything on top of these guys. I like the look and feel of a Stereo Hi-Fi Reciever w/ media center buttons for DVD and large dial for volume and menue selector.

"I'll Clock That For A Dollar!"

 

NuckNfuts,

Right now I don't need it as I don't think it would do me any good but as I said in my post I may buy a 4400 and put it in this one. With the 10x multiplier I should be able to reach 3.6-3.8, and I may well need better cooling. 3.6 is only a base of 360MHz and I know the 800fsb can handle that easy! I'll bet I can run the same settings, or at least close to them so the limit seems to be just over 3.6 with a 10 multi!

So far I've been pleased with the performance of the Arctic Freezer Series. I know they are overkill for my customer builds as they are all stock, but I sleep better nights! LOL!!

I'll look into those cases and see what I can find. Thanks for letting me know!

Clock On,
theone

 

Theone: The Freezer 7 Pro is clearly a good cooler, because with the massive additional TDP created by the silly voltage the P5N-E demands I run my CPU at, it still keeps my CPU at a respectable temperature at high speed. Low speed however, and it all falls apart. At idle, the temps barely change, at load the difference is huge. The Thermalright ultra 120 is unnecessary extra cooling performance, but it can offer more at a lower noise level, which is what I'm after.
My Zalman CNPS7000Alcu is an absolute carpet, and cleaning it is going to be a real pain. yet it still cools ok!

The problem with a TEC is you're solving the problem of heat by adding more heat. Great if you want to get good cooling performance on your CPU, but it'll heat your case up a treat. You get the same net effect by running a tower heatsink with a low speed fan. The CPU stays cool, the case gets hot. Same with my GPU cooler too. Tower heatsinks like the Thermalright are expensive, but far cheaper than TECs.

The 4000+ you have is a mystery to me. What fan speed do you use, and do you have cool 'n' quiet enabled?
My CPU at lowest speed (900rpm) manages 45C idle and 58C load, and at a high speed (2000rpm) gets 38C idle and 47C load, I can't get such a dramatic increase from one to the other.

Mort: My PC is moved a lot (LAN parties) but I'd worry less about an Ultra 120 than a Freezer 7 pro because it relies on the very weak method of attachment intel specified as standard for socket 775.

NuckNFuts: I think that combination will be my next HSF of choice, the Ultra 120 with a Scythe S-Flex 1600 attached to my fan controller.

Theone: Desktop cases were good back when PCs didn't create loads of heat. Now, you'd lose the advantage of case side ventilation, unless you used a top/bottom fan. The only cases I've seen that make good use of top/bottom cooling are the Antec P180/182/190 and 900.

 

I mentioned these high end cooling solutions because this is an Overclockers tread and this is what those coolers are aimed toward. Stock can always make best use of them for near quiet use.

For high end heat pump cooling you can now watercool them too, taking the heat off the hot plate.

About the 4000 mentioned, what version and model? My OC'd aMD X64 x2 4400+ (939) 89w ver w/ 2x 1m L2 cache is a great OC'r and runs cool on air and never over 48C on load of video encoding and below 32C idle w/ CNPS9700-NT on 1.350v

sammorris: I also found the Artic cooler fans in a 120mm size w/ same 4-wire connector and specs show it to be as quiet but haven't tested yet.

Descktop case have all the better advantage over tower in such ways as you can port and cool like BTX and even "stove pipe" all sinks and on mobo including RAM, CPU, chipset, and of corse VGS's in SLI. A properly vented "Stove pipe" tube directed over a spacific unit can provide either fresh air in and as well heated air out by heatrise convection. Momo can also be cooled from below as well.

Just some tested ideas for the ATX/BTX descktop style HTPC Media Center PC

 

With the 4 pin connector? PWM type or the standard large molex? If it's PWM I'm not really interested, since that's my moan about the 64 Pro, you can't connect it to a fan controller, you have to wait until windows loads then open speedfan. Asus Qfan is as good as useless.

 

I agree that the artic freezer 7 pro does a good job cooling but the one con and reason I never owned one is that it doesn't use a backing plate for mounting. most high end cpu coolers do. I want my cpu hsf to be screwed down securely not held in place with push n latch pins. it wouldn't be a big deal with a desktop case where gravity is your friend and pushing straight down against the cpu but with towers where gravity is your enemy, their mounting configuration is too weak for my liking.

almost all the high-end gpu's vent out the back of the case nowadays. that was one of the main reasons I went with my X850XT PE.

 

Which screams like a banshee. My GPU cooler sounded like that, until I replaced it with a Thermalright HR-03 and it now makes very little noise. (I can't say no noise since the circuits themselves make quite a loud scream when playing games, but I can't exactly replace those).

 

NuckNfuts,

It's an A64 single core, San Diego! 2.4GHz mildly OC'd to 2.76GHz. It OC's higher but I'm using the on-board video right now and it won't clock higher without the video crashing. Good processor!

Clock On,
theone

 

I wouldn't argue with a 15% overclock with Onboard video. I only managed 9% with my X2 and that was with a dedicated card! It did however use Value Select RAM.

 

TO: theonejrs,

Well the mobo plays a big part in this of corse. My retired single 3800 San Diago moved to a A8N-VM CSM/NBP (sml ATX) and it did fine to 2.6G on air w/ Zalman CNPS7700-Cu. This is more like 20% on a mobo w/ onboard nVidia gForce w/ DVI out and did good but leave better as 2.50GHz as 250x10 RAM 1:1 daily user w/ XP Pro x64 SP2 Edition. This single got a bit warmer then my x2 4400 but better cooling would help reduce that. Currently only 4 - 5c over the x2 OC (37c idle/58c loaded. I am also using onoard HD audio, This was gifted last yr to a inlaw w/ hapy results and still god to go.

 

sammorris,

That's what's in this one as well, cas 2.5 Corsair Value Select, 2x512!

You can clock it to around 3.0GHz with the 7600GT in it. I repeat, Excellent chip. I should have done that instead of my P4 3.0 Prescot. Of course back then the A64 4000+ was about $380! LOL!! I think I paid $79!

NOTE TO cincyrob: See! I didn't know back then, but I learned! LOL!! I call that "Growing Pains"! ROFL!!

Clock On,
theone

 

I had good luck w/ the x2 4400 and was pleased since new @ just around $600+ compared to my D840 at the time. I never upgraded the mobo to know if I can take it further then 3>0G. Using the mobo in sig. A8N-SLI Premium. I like to keep a 1:1 RAM but my RAM it the hold back here at only DDR575 OC'd to DDR600 but so I haven't rally kept it over 300x10 for 3.0 but RAM gets hot so I will keep it as 2.85GHz since this is just a 2nd gaming PC.

The DFI LanParty for this CPU did great over FSB 300 w/ RAM deviders even w/ DDR500

 

custompc (uk based mag) did a large test a few editions ago on almost all the cpu blowers out. it showed the freezer pro did not perform aswell on amd chips as they did on intels, they seem to think the scythe infinity is the best for amds.

as for tec cooling...other than the heat you put in your case they need to be powered too, which could also cause your psu to create more heat.

 

Hi All,

I am really new to OCing. Mayb any of u could help me out.
I got a C2D 6420 with a DG965 Intel chipset, 2GB Kingston 667 Mhz Ram,
Gigabyte X1650 Ati Radeon 128MB graphics card.

No seperate cooling as such.

Please tell me how to OC processor, RAM or my graphics card.
Or please guide me to the corresponding tutorial.

 

It's relatively simple to begin with. Go into the BIOS of your motherboard, and look up the Front Side Bus speed (should be 1066mhz, but it might be displayed as 266). Try increasing the number it's set to slowly, e.g. try 300 at first, if it works slowly increase it (305,310 etc) and if not, try decreasing it. There are far more settings to help you get the best from it, but this is the simplest way to start, and it's what gets you the bulk of the overclock with Core 2 Duos. Which motherboard do you have? (The chipset doesn't really give enough detail)