Hi Sam, Yeah, Thats what those are. I couldn't get the Thermalright fan clips on with chipset fan in place. Of course I can't get the chipset fan in with the Scythe in place. So I use safety wire to hold the fan on. I've been looking at this unit and it looks heavier than it is. I think the board gets a lot more stress from trying to install the heatsink screws or those stock push-in thingies. The motherboard is made out of phenolic resin which is some tough stuff. The fitting on the back spreads the weight out too, so I'm not to worried about it. My wire job may fall off and short out something though so I'll have to some up with something else.
I looked at the fan clip for my HR-03 and thought "this will be as good as useless" but fortunately that doesn't need a fan. As for the enermax galaxy units, they're great PSUs as long as you're made of money and don't give a rat's bottom about noise. Personally I think 850W is overkill for any PC system (note, a 4Ghz watercooled C2D, twin 8800GTXs, 4GB RAM and 10 hard disks is probably only going to use somewhere in the order of 700W), and intend on replacing my 750W unit with a quieter 620W. I do intend on running an 8800 with it, and I know they can take it. (Corsair HX).
Lol well there we have it. I think it's kind of cool when I turn the Silverstone fans up to full, makes my single PC sound like an entire server room, but to work with it'd be unbearable, I can hear it over music I listen to using noise cancelling headphones.
Hi Doc, I installed the P28 update last Sunday. Very painless! About those voltages.... I think when I posted before, I mentioned 1.65. At the time, what I actually indicated with every monitoring program I had was 1.56 at full load, 1.6 at idle. 1.65 is what I set it at to make up the difference..... 0.5 volts lower at idle and 0.9 at 100%. I realize this is high but not so high to overtemp the cpu... Of course how would I know that if the temp sensors were not reading correctly? So A couple of new E6700's should tell me much. I'm going to carefully monitor and record all the default temps this time. When I OC, I swear I'll stay below... um...1.47...? You are right on about EVGA, they are the kind of folks I like dealing with. I get E mail replies from their tech support in a couple of hours instead of a couple of days.
hi frank, well, i wish you only the very best in terms of trying out your brand new CPUs...hopefully after initial monitoring, you can decisively see where the fault may actually lie...be it in your old chips or elsewhere...nothing wrong with comparing results and know definitively...good luck, let us know how they compare once you are completed with testing...i'd be interested in the results from your findings docTY
sammorris, This is getting annoying! LOL!! You are correct again! My case is mostly steel. Just the drive door and lower fascia are aluminum. You would think aluminum would vibrate less, being the softer material but that's not the case. I used to have an aluminum bodied "D" Type years ago and road noise and vibration were higher than with a steel body. Hell, keeping paint on it was a pup too. One little minor ding and all the paint would shatter on a panel leaving you with bare aluminum. Good call Sam!!! Comparing the noise level now compared to pre-Silverstone is like comparing the noise of a storm, during and after! Mine's very much after now! LOL!! Before, it just roared by comparisun! Clock On, theone :}
Hi, I am looking to give my computer a moderate OC. Since I finished building it ~3hrs ago, should I wait a while to break it in before I start my OC? Also, I live in an area where summer temperature is ~90F, will my stock cpu heatsink/fan be enough to keep it cool? cpu - E6600 RAM - pc8500 1GBx2 motherboard - Asus Commando edit: I noticed after a little use that my cpu temp ~50C and when I started loading 3DMark06 it jumped to 67C. Considering that the ambient temp is ~80F, do you think that I didn't install my heatsink/fan properly, or do I need a better cooling? Thanks for your help.
Hi sparker89, From one newbie builder to another.... At the temps you are running now, a 100% load is going to push it over 75°C. Add an overclock and higher ambient temps and you will have problems. That's too hot. Those stock intel heatsinks work well enough for non-overclocked PCs. Yours may not be installed correctly. Did you see the Thermal compound on the heatsink base when you installed it? Hopefully you left it on there. Make sure you have your push-in pins all the way in. If you do need remove it, follow the instructions and you need to clean off the thermal compound and re-apply it when you put it back on. You have a lot of money invested, why not spend a bit more and get yourself a good heatsink? Include in your purchase some Arctic Silver heatsink compound and follow the application directions very carefully. It's not hard to do it correctly.
eparker89, Unless you don't have the stock heat sink installed properly. The best way to work the lock pins is to hold each corner at the metal spring bracket flush with the MB and then push the lock pins in place. Do it cross corner and then cross corner again and it should mount fine. If you have to remove it and start again check all around and make sure nothing is in the way of the aluminum fins like a capacitor or something. I used the one from my Pentium D-940 to put together a friends new E4300. It has a thicker copper core and a little more clearance for mounting and I didn't hit 50C under load at 3.0GHz in an 85 degree room! If it was me knowing what I know I would buy an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro for about $35. It would work very well with the moderate OC you have in mind! If your MB supports PWM fan control for the CPU Cooler, turn it on. If the fan continues to run at high speeds then you need better case ventilation. I've never seen a better PWM controller than what is on my GigaByte DS3. It's running at 800 RPM and the CPU is 26-27C in a 25C room! If I encode with DVDRB/CCE the speed will go right up to 1600 or so and the temps will be in the mid 40s. Another thing that might help would be to see if the bios and see if it has a setting called CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) usually found in the Advanced BIOS Features . If it does, turn it on. My E4300 runs at 3.276GHz but it only idles at 2.2GHz. C1E cuts the processor speed when it isn't needed. Some people will tell you not to use it, or it will mess up your benchmarks! Don't know how your's will work but as far as mine goes, that's rubbish! The Benchmarks are identical! Mine clicks the multiplier between 6 and 9, so it's always running either 2.2 or 3.3 according to Everest. Mine works instantly so the minute you click on an app that needs more speed it jumps right up to 3.276. It would seem to me to be a very useful feature when used with an E6600 as it does make more heat than the 4300. The thing that's so funny with mine is that if I just run the CPU cooler fan at it's highest speed My temperatures are higher! I've had a theory for years that the drier the air, the slower it has to move to cool something down. This year since we are able to use both the swamp cooler and my AC together with the added moisture in the air from the swamp cooler, it makes my temps extremely low at 800 RPM and only goes to about 12-13 hundred RPM. Anyway give what I've said about those things to try. If the temps still hit 50C then Consider the Arctic Freezer 7. It's outperformed the Zalman 9500 in every computer I own. It's quieter as well. Clock On, theone :}
LOL you guys are showing your true colours, the only reason noise is an issue to me is because this pc is being used for audio production, if it was my gaming pc i wouldnt give a damn about the noise, but not everyone is into having loads of noise comming from their pc, you all seem to be silverstone fans, thats good for you but i dont need the output they produce or want that kind of output as that itself would create more noise. ie when your recording and monitoring accoustic guitar and vocals you dont want the hum or rush of air in the backgound, noise cancelling headphones arent any good for this, and you dont always want to have studio monitors up at stupid levels just to compensate for the fact your pc, sounds like a vacuum cleaner.
thats with it running as my sig, but i still run 3ghz most of the time as it feels like it runs better with my ram running cas 3 1t. for mine to run like that it needs 1.41v to the cpu but my nb still only needs 1.2v. it adds about 2/3c to my cpu temp so it idles around 35/36c and hits about 45c under heavy load. edit results from latest stable release of sandra lite. @redice i like everyone else here, are more than happy to help if and when we can.
marsey99, Thanks for posting these. Other than yours having a wider memory bandwidth by about 1000MB/s it's about the same as mine. Your memory runs at 820MHz while mine runs at 910 but mine is timed 5-4-4-12. It will run at 4-4-4-12 but I don't like having to up the voltage for the memory as it makes it run pretty warm, so I run it at 1.9V! Not sure about the 1T as I thought all Intels ran at 2T. I looked in my P5N-E manual but I couldn't find a way to change it to 1T. I remember with Gina's that you could change it and set it to 1 but it would change itself back to 2T every time! I run my CPU voltage at 1.392, and that's as high as I'm willing to go. It will run at 3.366GHz but It won't remain stable unless I up the CPU voltage to over 1.4V, which I'm not willing to do. The difference in speed is not enough to warrant risking the CPU so 3.276GHz it is! You are very lucky that you can get your buss above 400MHz. Most E4300s won't go that high except the early B stepping ones. I'll be curious to see what an E4400 will do once I get one. In theory it should be able to run the same settings with a 10x multiplier but I don't think it will run 3.740GHz, at least not on air! LOL!! Anyway, thanks again for the benches. Clock On, theone :}
theone, asus mobo's have this feature but it has to be disabled in order to raise the vcore (at least it does on my P5W DH Deluxe). the commando being asus is probably the same way. it could be a difference between the 965 chipset and 975 chipset too. my bios specifically says "to increase vcore C1E must be disabled". may not have too with the 965 chipset tho. eparker may have to disable C1E in order to increase the vcore in order to OC. he definately needs a better/aftermarket cpu hsf 1st tho before he does anything. @fasfrank, I see you have both the asus P5W DH Deluxe and the thermalright ultra 120 extreme. I am interested in getting a thermalright cpu hsf to put on my P5W DH Deluxe but I have a 40x40x20mm chipset fan on my northbridge chipset hs. will the thermalright ultra 120 extreme still clear my northbridge chipset with the additionional height of 20mm from the chipset fan?
ck, actually I tried Silverstone fans to see what effect they had, but they pull temperatures that are much lower than what I actually need to be below, so they can be slowed down by a hell of a lot. This is where using a Scythe or Nexus fan kicks in. The Noctua fans were great (especially for vibration using the rubber gromets) but for that defect which put me off. If you do audio work it'll probably stick out like a sore thumb. check out (if you haven't already) http://www.silentpcreview.com - they're full of ideas to help you get a quiet PC Rules of thumb: Hard disk vibration softeners Quiet HDDs to begin with (often Samsungs) Low speed fans (and as many passive coolers as possible) Silent PSU (Corsair/Seasonic) High quality silent fans (Nexus, Scythe, and definitely NOT Silenx)
russ, i have mine setup much the same, i leave mine a 3ghz as it only needs 1.35v and it runs quite cool. my chip will do 440 on the x6 multi but it totaly refuses to play ball on the 7 multi, i dont know why but it only works on x6, x8 and x9. edit e4300 cpuz world record http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=186330
@marsey99 ok thanks. so what do you need to know from me about the computer in order to do the oc? edit:just notice that i'm now a senior member.
Congrats redice! As for the CPUZ, that's a nuts score for a 1.8ghz processor, how on earth did he do that?
I looked around a bit and noticed that for some people the asus temp program didn't give and accurate temp reading for their cpu. Since my motherboard temp read 38C and my cpu temp read 60C, I thought that that might be my problem until my computer restarted while beginning to install CoreTemp to verify the reading from the asus program. My stock HSF is seated with AS5 right now so I don't think that my thermal compound is the problem. I am going to get the Arctic Freezer 7 pro (as soon as I make sure it will fit) and would like your opinion on the MX-1 thermal compound that it comes with. Some say it is equal to or better than AS5. What would you recomend using? Thanks. edit: I pulled of the stock cooler and noticed that the AS5 hadn't spread completely over the HSF or the contact area of the cpu. Having followed the Arctic Silver online directions to the dime (with the exception of cleaning the cpu with theircleaner), I was a little surprised to discover this (not really though with my cpu v. MB temps). To be honest I was a little skeptical of their application method, being putting a single line of AS5 done the middle of the cpu, as I didn't see how it would spread properly. Can anyone comment on their application method and possibly give a better way to apply the thermal compound?