The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!

ck5134: The only Maxtor drive I've had is the same 40GB DM+8 and it's also been quite good. They make a rather distinctive noise for some reason!

Theone: My browser at work doesn't load forum embedded images so I'll have to wait until I get back home to see it! I think I know what it is you're sending me, and thanks very much for doing so. With regard to the hard disks, the Barracuda I have is very quiet in it's silent enclosure, certainly quieter than the Raptor, there's almost no noticeable 120Hz hum, but the seek noise! :O It sounds like treading on bubble warp, it's a very scratchy noise and very loud too.

The voltages look alright, including the 3.3V from PC Probe, but the earlier figure was a bit worrying. Usually if programs mess up they give obviously wrong voltages like -11V for 3.3, but that's worryingly close to the truth.
Does it still shut down if you remove the 80GB drive?

 

rvinkebob,

It sounds suspiciously like the PS runs out of watts, which would cause some things like hard drives and memory to cause errors. It's like putting a 20 ft boat in a 20 ft pool. It will float, but it ain't goin to pull that water skier! LOL!! I think a better PS is in the cards for you! Just keep that 70% or higher in mind when you look for one!

Clock On,
theone :>}

 

IN the cards now? lol
Yeah, if you're after a good unit, there's now an 80Plus sticker affixed to the ones that are very efficient.

Oh and by the way, a PC with an X1900XT Graphics card, an X2 4200+, water cooling and no less than 10 hard drives was measured at the mains to draw 1.8A during gaming.

 

sammorris,

I'm willing to bet the farm that they didn't do it right! It should have been at least twice that amperage. Bet you any amount of money that if you put an amp clamp on the hot wire it would read at least 3.6A. If this is in the US, then I absolutely know it was done wrong! If they did use an Amp Clamp to read it then they either got the wrong wire or the Amp Clamp is not working properly.

Clock On,
theone :>}

 

It was done using a Kill-A-Watt style system, and I was there when they did the test. If a PC draws 5A, how come I'm able to have two of them, plus a powerful set of speakers and a monitor on one extension without blowing a 13A fuse?
If a, in this case 520W power supply drew 3.6A at the mains, that's 828W, and the PSU wasn't being maxed out, so that would make it less than 63% efficient. I doubt it somehow. Modern electronics are better than that.

 

You can use Windbg to find out which application or driver is the culprit. Download it here, http://www.microsoft.com/whdc/devtools/debugging/installx86.mspx

Simply set the debugger symbol path as follows, substituting your downstream store path for DownstreamStore.

SRV*DownstreamStore*http://msdl.microsoft.com/download

/symbols

For example, to download symbols to c:\websymbols, you would add the following to your symbol path: SRV*c:\websymbols*http://msdl.microsoft.com/

download/symbols and then click Files | Save Workspace..

HTH

 

That sounds a bit complicated, is there not an easier way to check for conflicts?

 

sammorris,

Not really because it would only draw those amps with a maximum load on the output. If this is in Europe, it would only be the stated 1.8 amps on a 230v line. Like I said the efficiency rating is based on the power supplies ability to supply it's rated output wattage and at what point that wattage starts to drop. You would be very surprised with how some manufacturers manipulate the numbers to make it appear that a piece of junk is equal to a quality product, but when you add up the numbers it just doesn't come out right. less than 50% efficiency is common among many brands of cheap power supplies, modern electronics or not. It's just a matter of what load point is reached before those numbers go down sharply. The better the quality and design, the higher the load point before the PS loses the ability to make the wattage needed. Even then good ones have a much broader load range

The Cool Max I just repaired to use as a temp. could have never reached it's maximum 10A@115v draw on the mains, because it would have burned out long before that point was reached. Judging by the components inside of it and the poor design, my best guess would have been about 225 to 250w would have been the max in actual use as the VRMs I replaced were so light duty that more wattage than that would have been impossible.

Someone on this Forum has a list of "Not Recommended" Power supplies that was posted a while back. maybe they could post it again to refresh all our memories of what to avoid. You and I both know the perils of buying any of those. We've learned the hard way!

Clock On,
theone :>}

 

And seeing as it powered your PC using those watts for a while, your PC can't draw much more than that. If your PC can run on under 300W, then why couldn't the other run on the 450 I quoted?

 

Thanks Neverhap. I'll try that out soon. Oh and do I have to take the PSU out to read the % efficieny? Or should there be a little sticker on it?

Also here's one to scratch your heads. It has nothing to with my problem... nothing to do with PC OC'ing in fact. OC a PS2.

http://nfggames.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2220

Read it and see if there's any way to fix the video card problem. I'm no one to research so that's why I asked.

Also it's as if DX is all over the place. First, after system restore, I ran Windows with no problem but a little addon for Firefox, Tab Effect which makes a cube turning effect when switching tabs, wouldn't work. Now I turn on my PC and hey, it works! I re-installed DX9c June 2007 and still it's all over the place. Do you think maybe there's a bug in this version?

 

Hey Sam,

A little help here! I accidentally got something in my eye and unsubscribed from this thread. How do I subscribe again?

Russ

 

i think you just did by posting, ther is a little check box at the end of the box you enter the text in.

 

mikeh0303,

Thanks, I just saw it when i clicked the button!

BTW, I just discovered that by clicking the stop button in Mozilla, before you open the url, it makes AD load better. I only started having problems opening forums when Mozilla did one of their updates. Clicking the stop button cuts off the advertising and lets AD load much quicker.

Clock On,
theone :>}

 

HEY!

If i get the E4300 and overclock it too 3.0ghz

Will its lifespan shorten? if so, by how much?
Cuz i dont want to have to be replacing my cpu every 3 months you know.

 

I think I found the problem(s). I used the debugger and found to files unable to be verified upon running firefox.exe. No amazement but the tab effect plugin was one which makes perfect sense why when ff was initializing tab effect plugin files, I got the MCE error. So it wasn't directx after all but a struggle to initialize a plugin that used DX.

The other was for DAP (Download Accelerator Plus). The DAP plugin for firefox couldn't be verified either. I uninstalled the TE since I don't really need it and removed the DAPFireFox.dll plugin and so far not one error.

Though it's all great news, I have a remaining problem that hasn't happened yet but might. It doesn't explain why it gives me MCE when my computer is idle at the desktop. Other than that, thanks Neverhap for showing me this great tool. Not as complicated as it sounded. That is when I just copy and pasted the Symbol Path (obviously removing the other stuff written after it). I'll keep waiting until it happens again, and I know it should.

Thanks for all the help up to this point!

EDIT: I didn't read the whole log and found that symbols couldn't be loaded for the file xpsp2res.dll. It has SP2 in it so I'm assuming this is the cause for the desktop issue. Anyone know what it does just to confirm?

 

DAP caused me some problems in the past too.
For me, the wait is usually for the advertisements in aD. I have no such issues at work because the URLs are filtered!

 

That depends on how much you up the voltage. If you don't go above 1.4V, it'll still last years.

 

Not sure what it does, but as you mentioned it is part of SP2. Perhaps it got corrupted, you can download a good copy here, http://www.dlldump.com/download-dll...es/X/xpsp2res.dll/5.1.2600.2180/download.html

Best of luck.

 

Hi, I just decided I am going to overclock the following CPUs using this cooler


here are the CPUs I am going to overclock:

http://canadacomputers.com/index.php?do=ShowProduct&cmd=pd&pid=013484&cid=CPU.84

http://canadacomputers.com/index.php?do=ShowProduct&cmd=pd&pid=013486&cid=CPU.84


how far do you think i can get with them??? I dont want temps going over 40 when idle