The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!

sheeny33,
First thing I would do is leave the fan plugged in to the header on the MB for the CPU without the fan control. Then enable C1E in the setup. Then go into the PC Health Status section of the setup and set the Fan Speed Control Method to Auto. then go to the Fan Speed Control Mode and set it to PWM. Works much better on this MB than Speedfan!

Did you get a 40mm fan for the Northbridge heatsink? 42-43C is about what I was getting for my system temp before I installed the 6 CFM Silenex blowing down. Now it only hits 42C If I'm running OCCT, and that's only during certain parts of the test. I don't much care for software that puts un-realistic loads on my computer. I prefer Prime 95 run for 24 hours! You will notice that Tom's Hardware and Anandtech don't use either OCCT or Orthos, but do use Prime 95. Coretemp may not work on that MB! It won't run on mine! It just re-sets the computer just like you pressed the reset button. It doesn't crash, it just re-sets. Something in Coretemp doesn't like the hardware in my MB! I don't care what anyone tells you, it is not a crash, because the PS doesn't turn on and then off and back on again when it restarts, and it does that everytime it does crash. I think the software is making a call to the wrong hardware. The minute I start Coretemp on my DS3, it re-sets instantly, everytime!

I know it's a pain to re-do the thermal compound but using Arctic Silver 5 or Ceramique does make a big difference. You do have the fan blowing towards the rear, don't you? When I first set my Zalman up, I put it in 180 degrees backwards. That stupid tiny little picture they show in the instructions makes it very hard to see just which way to point it, especially when your eyes are not the best!

You will also need to raise the voltage a bit to about 1.375v. You will have to change the control to Manual from Auto and manually set the memory timings as well. Just copy the Auto settings for now into the manual side! I would highly recommend re-doing the thermal compound first!

Best Regards,
Russ :>)

 

Hi Sheeny,
Here's a screenshot of what I'm getting.





Orthos does put a 100% load on the cpu so it does take more Vcore to run. I can't run the voltage Russ suggested with Orthos. I am stable at 1.4375 set in the bios which shows up in Everest at 1.37 or so.

The 3D Aurora is a cool running case with the mesh side on. Not the clear plastic one.

 

fasfrank,

Yes, you are quite right. It took 1.392 to run mine for 12 hours with OCCT! I Stopped using it when I discovered that no matter what I did with the computer, it never got anywhere's near the temps I got when running OCCT. There is such a thing as abuse and I consider unrealistic and unnecessary loads abuse! I run my voltage at 1.375v and have no problems with anything I use. My CPU temps rarely ever go over the mid 50Cs and My motherboard temps never exceed 40C!

My computer is Prime95 stable for 24 hours with 0 errors, and that's good enough for me. It's also good enough for Tom's hardware, Anandtech, Neoseeker's and many others. I would be willing to bet that a lot of their overclocks would fail if they were using OCCT or Orthos!

Best Regards,
Russ :>)

 

@ Russ
Just butting in for a bit, but remember you told me the settings you use on your motherboard. Well I just figured out that setting the graphics accelerator to turbo makes game not run. Also it restarts your computer when you try to play a game.

 

Hi Russ, and thanks again for your insights, I always find them valuable and a motivation to learn more.
About Orthos though, as far as I know, all that is is just a gui for Prime95:

From http://sp2004.fre3.com/

I've just been running Orthos rather than two iterations of Prime95. I do run Prime95 x 4 on my quad core to get all four cores stressed.

 

abuzar1,

No two computers are alike. Too many variables in the components. what works well for me may not work as well for someone else. There are other factors to consider as well. Room temperature can make all the difference in the world, as well as how well your case removes heat from inside of it! Right now it's 25C (77F) in here right now and mine idles at 24-26C. My CPU fan is running 700 RPM! I've had the graphics accelerator set to Turbo since day one and have never had a problem, even when running 3DMark 05!

You are also using a different CPU at a higher speed using different memory at a higher speed than I run mine. I suspect that if you had an E4300, GSkill cas4 memory, better airflow through your case and the same video card, your results would be about the same as mine. I was very lucky with the components for this computer, with the memory and especially with video card. It's clocked to 653/1600. The airflow through my case is over 100 CFM, so heat is removed very quickly. I only play Quake Arena and Delta Fource Extreme, so I can't really comment on gaming. Throw in the binning on all these components and I've just been lucky! I just happened to get a very good combination of parts that all work extremely well together. Like I always say, "It's the luck of the draw"! I've had my share of bad luck as well. I've just been fortunate enough to come up "Aces" on my last 4 computers! I've been lucky enough to wind up with components that all seem to work very well together!

Best Regards,
Russ :>)

 

fasfrank,
I just downloaded Orthos and ran it. It seems very similar to Prime95 and it doesn't seem to go to the extreme that OCCT does. In running it for 30 minutes, my CPU hit 57-58C and my cores never exceeded 60C. Bad judgement on my part. I should have tested it before I made comments about it. It seems to do the same job as Prime95, but gives you a lot more information in the process! It also seems to do a better job with the memory as well as it constantly uses about 75% of the total memory. Next time I'll spend the time and check software out before I make another mistake like that!

Sincerely,
Russ

 

"Thermal Compound Preparation And Application"

I know you'll be told to do it different I'm sure, but here's what I suggest on another forum I posted to Extreme Overclockers and they tend to like it as well. So here's my method, and especially if changing compounds (one brand/type to another) chemical differences can add to more loss of thermal transfer as uncompatible oils can act as a blanket.

I like to "block" sand (both 120 then 320+ water-sand), then LAP then polish to a mirror shine with automotive paint rubbing compound.

It now needs to be clean of the residue left behind from the rub and fingers, and especially differend or old thermal compound.

I use automotive brake cleaner to remove residue of each thermal compond, lapping material and polish. Use an a sensitive toothbrush to scrub surface area good to get into micro scopic grooves, (especiall if not lapped). I then swab this with 100% electronics cleaning alcohol to act as a final wash and get rid of chemical residue & toxic smell of Barrymans Brake Cleaner or the B-12 formula for Carburaters and chokes if you have it. (if using the B-12 carb cleaner, do swab good w/ alcohol cause it does leav a tad of chemical residue behind unlike the Barrymans Break cleaner in spray can. Now, (after removing Artic Silver from ice box whee stored tip downward to keep from seperating in tube) to reach room temp (hold in warm fist for a while, it works for me). I apply a few tiny dots to CPU and gently rub in with a clean smooth bag of medium to heav plastic (useing as a glove) to work into surfase and then thin it out to a fog like finish. I do the same to copper side of cooler, but leave a slightly more foggier coating that I rub on by rolling thumb through bag (like finger printing) then gently polish it to a foggy coat. I now apply drop to CPU and spread from center out till thinbut just before you can see hint of transparency through top layer. Not all of us hone down the IHS (the "heat spreader" thing - Integrated Heat Sink) of CPU so it is important to polish the TIM into the groves and smooth out evenly w/ thick plastic and thumb.

Now (after having done several dry fits for practice) lower cooler str8 down to CPU but with a slight angle to one edge only for air to escape, and take good care not move or twist till screws or snaps are set. Now I like to give a slight twist to the right and then back and leave it as be (no more then 3 - 5 degree of twist).

This has provven great for me for many years of using Artic Silver products and better then nothing if using OEM TIM. It's all about the prepperation quality. Using this method w/ OEM thermal compounds can improve by a few degrees if anything else.

It's pretty much the origional method, but with a few extra quality steps.

Clock On Guys!

 

Oh ya, dont forget to break it in nice and good. Running these stress test for several hrs then letting cool over night is best if done on and off for several cycles. So get it nice and hot, then col it down. Cycle for about a week and retest to see if any difference.

abuzar1,

Several mobo/BIOS OC features should notbe used when attempting a high OC as it just adds to the unstability. Use this as a guid for starters.

Fix PCI-E 10 100MHz, PCI 32bit to 33MHz, disable speed spectrum, disable EIST (ASUS does this for you over a certain FSB), "Turbo" or other such performance modes set to Standard or normal, memory throttling to AUTO or enabled (if the RAM can't throttle, it's just gonna' crash), disable ECC (!875P !975XE), PAT, EPP or other such memory boosters, and if really pushing the envelope, even disable TM and C1E modes for now (pay close att. to temps during loading benchmarks).

Few of these can be returned to on/enabled as you get it stable to see if it can remain stable such as TM1/2, C1E/C2. On some BIOS that allow it I have even reduced the PCI-E to 99 for stability on older !975X mobos for high OC's. Most today do not allow any less hten 100MHz. Since you've likely already OC'd the RAM and GPU adding the extra BIOS boost will only add to stress and likely unstable. So leave PGE link and rAM and system boost off under higher overclocks. Or turn them on 1 by 1 at your own risk to test for yourself for the experience.

Good Luck

 

Hi Russ and Everyone Else,

Ok first things first, Ive done as you said, plugged the fan into the header on the MB without the fan control thingy. Exchanged my clear plastic side with the mesh one and I've enabled CPU ENHANCE (C1E) under the advanced Bios settings.
Set Smart Fan Control Method to [AUTO] and Smart Fan Control Mode to [PWM].

Heres a few read outs from my health status:

PC HEALTH
-----------------
Vcore Ok
DDR18v Ok
+3.3v Ok
+12v Ok
Current System Temperature 50c
Current CPU Temperature 38-39c
Current CPU Fan Speed 2586rpm
Current System Fan Speed 0rpm
Current Power Fan Speed 950
Smart Fan Control Method [Auto]
Smart Fan Control Mode [PWM]

(CPU) FSB = 266.00 / Voltage = 1.31
(Memory) Freq = 798.00 / Voltage = 1.90

These figures are taken from "EasyTune5" from Gigabyte
and the current clock states its at 1593.88mhz

In regard to the Fan, yes its blowing to the rear so it seems to be on correctly.

I was just wondering, because C1E is enabled now, my clock has reduced? hence the low temperatures(or better temperatures).

 

No I've still got the fans that came with the case.

 

sheeny33,

I think changing the side had more to do with the lower temps than anything. I don't see much difference with or without C1E enabled, but every little bit helps and it doesn't affect the performance! Just how hot is the room you have the computer in? Ambient temperature has quite a bit to do with computer temps once you get above about 27-28C. It's been my experience that once you start getting above those temps the computer temps climb more rapidly. You absolutely need a fan on the Northbridge with that MB. I tried a Thermalrite chipset cooler, but the Silenex fan works better! It accomplishes two things. First it cools the Northbridge and second and more importantly keeps heat away from the CPU cooler. It also keeps the MB cooler in the area of the chip and the CPU. I got a difference of about 8-10C just by installing the 6 cfm 40mm Silenex, which also dropped the CPU down about 3-5C. I don't know what the cfm of the fans your case has is but I know I benefited from replacing the rear 120mm with the Silverstone and adding a side 80mm Silverstone where the CPU duct was mounted. I left the front 80mm that came with the case as is! Right now it's 82F in my room and the CPU temp is about 84-86F, which is around 29-30C. It's a little warmer out than it has been lately by about 10F so it's about normal for the conditions.

See my PM to you!

Best Regards,
Russ :>)

 

Anybody have any leads on an app to read or detect set (currently used) RAM voltages (in windows, w/o shutting down)? Something like Corsair dashboard for the Xpert Series wich works on some other Corsair modules w/ limited readings.

Thankx.

Oh ya, found the Rev NO. , thankx. it is on lower edge (as viewed from standard ATX mounting) near the screw hole. It was below the lowest PCI slot and couldn't see till removing Audigy X-Fi sound card (written 90 degrees left just under edge of card in the 3rd PCI slot). I have rev 1.1 of Gigabyte GA-P35C-DS3R on F2 BIOS

 

NuckNFuts,

Yeah, that was the second picture! Hard to see! LOL!! Glad you found it!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Thermochill are the top of the pack when it comes to rads, but they are big and bulky and its only a couple of degrees but about £20-30 per rad difference.
Im still building my PC but I belong to a forum of the shop I get all my watercooling parts from and Ive never heard or read of anyone having problems?
Im no guru either, Im more of a knowledge sponge, I like to learn from/with other people.
With 2 completely seperate loops and high quality parts Im only ever going to get it a couple of degrees above ambient so the air con will be set to 17c and Ill put an extra jumper on!

 

ADVANCED BIOS FEATURES
------------------------------------------
HDD S.M.A.R.T. Capability [Disabled]
No-Execute Memory Protect [Enabled] Not sure what this is?
Limit CPUID Max to 3 [Disabled]
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) [Disabled] See below for my issue with this setting...
CPU Thermal Monitor 2 (TM2) [Enabled]
CPU EIST Function [Disabled]
Virtualization Technology [Disabled]
Init Display First [PCI]

MB INTELLIGENT TWEAKER (M.I.T.)
----------------------------------------------------

Robust Graphics Booster [Auto]
CPU Clock Ratio [10x]
CPU Host Clock Control [Enabled]
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) [333] .............Was [266]
PCI Express Frequency (Mhz) [100] .............Was [Auto]
C.I.A.2 [Disabled]
System Memory Multiplyer (SPD) [2.50] ............Was [2.00]
Memory Frequency........................................800....................830
High Speed DRAM DLL Settings [Option 1]
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) [Auto]
x CAS Latency.................................................5........................Auto
x DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay....................5........................Auto
x DRAM RAS# Precharge ............................5........................Auto
xPrecharge Delay (tRAS) ............................18........................Auto
xACT To ACT Delay (tRRD)........................3........................Auto
xRANK Write to Delay..................................3........................Auto
xWrite To Precharge Delay...........................6........................Auto
xRefresh To ACT Delay...............................48........................0 This was 28,I cant adjust it...
xRead To Precharge Delay............................3........................Auto

Memory Performance Enhance [Normal]

******* SYSTEM VOLTAGE NOT OPTIMIZED ********
xDDR2 Overvoltage Control [Normal]
xPCI-E Overvoltage Control [Normal]
xFSB Overvoltage Control [Normal]
x(G)MCH Overvoltage Control [+0.1v]
xCPU Voltage Control [1.32500v]
xNormal CPU Vcore 1.32500v

PC HEALTH
-----------------
Vcore Ok
DDR18v Ok
+3.3v Ok
+12v Ok
Current System Temperature 52c
Current CPU Temperature 45c Under load it goes no higher than 55c
Current CPU Fan Speed 2585rpm
Current System Fan Speed 0rpm
Current Power Fan Speed 960
Smart Fan Control Method [Auto]
Smart Fan Control Mode [PWM]

Hi Everyone again,
First off, I spent a good 5-6 hours today thinking I had done something real naughty to my processor by overclocking it,
every game I tried to play on my rig (Flight Sim X) was unplayable, the frame rate dropped to 1 frame per second!.
Fortunately I found the problem, the setting "(G)MCH Overvoltage Control", for some unknown reason I have to have this
at +0.1v. Its weird though because I always used to set the system voltage on Auto. but it seems that I cant do that now or I get
the frame rate problem!. I would be intrested to hear anyones theories on it.

My next issue is the "CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E)", what does this do exactly?, because when I enable it my cock goes back to
stock speed, as far as Easytune5 is concerned anywho.

Whats this do? - "No-Execute Memory Protect"

Any suggestions on my bios settings would be much appreciated!

 

Whats this do then?, any suggestions what other timings I can try?,
Oh by the way my room temperature is about 28-30c

 

C1E just lowers your multiplier when you aren't using your CPU all that much to save electricity and make less heat.

 

Hi just thought I would tell you about a handy app I found where you can edit the spd setting on your memory, and save it )


Thaiphoon Burner

http://cbid.amdclub.ru/

Ive just rewritten all my tighter timings to my memory rebooted put the bios settings to spd and its kept my tighter timings

 

also nxsensor is pretty good to bit better than coretemp )


still playing with it, works better than speed fan too as it reports all my temps whereas speedfan only did the cpu and cpu core 1 and missed core 2