The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!

This seams to be a Gigabyte BIOS issue. I had that even with the DQ6 and it was fien for the most part and even if prime stable for days on in it would just do it if you had to restart.. S4 was riskyy but S4 "Hibernate" was fien for me even on the DS3R.

Anybody have issue with high end RAM needing 2.4v + to boot, if mobo reset to auto? mine just reset the ratio and FSB so far, haven't lost voltages settings yet.

Just curious!

 

Whats GTL REF?

On newer mobos can you alter voltages for each core individualy then?

 

This is now getting into the high end tweaking of overclocking. We had little to no control of these tweaks when I 1st started. (the DDR VTT mod was my 1st stab at hardware mods). I am also learning these new tweaks as I go. I'll try to share it as I figure it out myself. Others feel free to correct if need be or add to it.

GTL REF Voltages, these are basically references points for the GTL+ signals (on the bus, CPU ~ Chipset ~ MCH) usually shown as a % (0.63 or 63x or 63%). It's sort of tied in to the CPU & FSB VTT. They scale up or down together like the FSBT ties into the CPU PLL. The help for higher mobo or FSB overclocks if fine tuned.

So for the quads, you still adjust the vcore as usual, but you get to reference the GTL or either each set of 2, or each indevidual cores. This is what is gonna gove an upper hand at getting more overclock out of these Penryns. I found a 10+MHZ easy and I see others reporting 15 ~ 150MHz over with core by core tweaking. It's time consuming but it's fun too. Cause no 1 mobo and CPU combo will behave the same. Those who tuned a Holley Tri-Power on old GM Mucle cars know what I mean. (1967 Corvette 427 w/ triple duce). Now that real American overclocking!

Hope this helps!

 

I have some temperature issues which I would like opinions on or maybe solutions to. Also I would be greatful for any feedback on what I could do tweak wise to maybe get a better OC.
First heres my BIOS:
MB INTELLIGENT TWEAKER (M.I.T.)
----------------------------------------------------

Robust Graphics Booster [Auto]
CPU Clock Ratio [10x]
CPU Host Clock Control [Enabled]
CPU Host Frequency (Mhz) [345]
PCI Express Frequency (Mhz) [100]
System Memory Multiplyer (SPD) [2.50]
Memory Frequency........................................800....................863
High Speed DRAM DLL Settings [Option 1]
DRAM Timing Selectable (SPD) [Manual]
x CAS Latency.................................................5........................5
x DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay....................5........................5
x DRAM RAS# Precharge ............................5........................5
xPrecharge Delay (tRAS) ............................18........................18
xACT To ACT Delay (tRRD)........................3........................3
xRANK Write to Delay..................................3........................3
xWrite To Precharge Delay...........................6........................6
xRefresh To ACT Delay...............................42........................42
xRead To Precharge Delay............................3........................3

Memory Performance Enhance [Normal]

******* SYSTEM VOLTAGE NOT OPTIMIZED ********
xDDR2 Overvoltage Control [+0.1v]
xPCI-E Overvoltage Control [+0.1v]
xFSB Overvoltage Control [+0.1v]
x(G)MCH Overvoltage Control [+0.1v]
xCPU Voltage Control [1.42500v]
xNormal CPU Vcore 1.32500v

Now, My Temperatures are as follows: (taken from Everest at Idle)

Motherboard 54 °C (129 °F)
CPU 53 °C (127 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #1 52 °C (126 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #2 53 °C (127 °F)

Temperatures while orthos is running:

Motherboard 54 °C (129 °F)
CPU 72 °C (162 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #1 67 °C (153 °F)
CPU #1 / Core #2 66 °C (151 °F)


Are these temperatures high?,if so why?, Everything seems to be put together correctly, IE. heatsink, thermo paste etc. (I'm not uaing arctic silver though..)

 

sheeny33,
I've found two things that make all the difference in the world to what temperatures you get on any computer. As you know we had similar motherboards with you having the S3 and me having the DS3. When I first did my build with the DS3 my MB temp was 47C at idle and the CPU was in the mid to high 30's. I removed the Northbridge heat sink, cleaned off all the old thermal stuff and re-did it with Arctic Silver 5. This dropped the MB temp to the low 40's. The airflow of my main case fan was only 33 cfm so I bought the first Silverstone, an FM-121. At the 1400 rpm I run it at the cfm is right at 73 cfm on a flow guage. Both temperatures went down a couple of degrees. I purchased an FM-83 80mm fan to replace the CPU air duct, which added another 25.6 cfm @1300 rpm. I also reversed the airflow by making the fan blow air out, instead of in. My reasoning was to not interfere with the airflow through the CPU cooler and to pull heat away from it, and to help pull more air through the static air vent below the CPU to help better cool the video card, which itself has a decent overclock. The result was my CPU temp went down another couple of degrees, but the MB temp stayed the same. I then purchased a Silenx 40mm 6 cfm fan and mounted it on top of the Northbridge heatsink, blowing down away from the CPU cooler. Both my CPU and MB temps went down! The MB dropped to the mid 30's and the CPU to to the high 20's.

With my recent new build, I changed the motherboard and replaced the E4300 with an E6750 and the temperatures are even lower, so I know my theories work! They should be lower because the E6750 doesn't make as much heat in spite of a 300MHz increase in processor speed over the E4300.

These are the temperatures I was getting on 8-11-07 which is about the hottest time of the year, here in So Cal.

My temps are even lower now but I haven't taken a screen shot of them yet.

Room temp is important too! If the room is at 28C then you are going to see at least 30C from the CPU, and a little more from the MB at idle. The E6750 idles right at room temp, while the E4300 was a couple of degrees higher. Your CPU runs hotter to begin with but either you have to cool the case better through the use of higher cfm fans, or lower the OC as it's not going to last at those temps.

A word about "window" cases. Most do not have any static air vents, and the few that do are not to my taste. I wish I could get a window for mine, as I like the look but Cooler Master doesn't seem to make one for it. I feel that the static air vent that's 4.75" x 3.50" on mine means everything to my low temps as it just brings more cool air into the right place without interfering with the CPU or Northbridge airflow. My video card heat never comes near the CPU Cooler or the Northbridge as it's removed from the case directly by my rear case fan, so it has no effect on the overall temps.

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
theone

 

Just to add my thoughts,
the best airflow route for me (and by that I mean can cool my PC sufficiently using fans that go so slowly they are completely inaudible, even with your ear up against them) involves using the following fan setup. Granted, I have more fan positions than some, but you get the idea:

Front fan: in
Top fan: out
Bottom fan: in
Side fan: out
rear fan: out

I run my graphics card passively, and my CPU cooler sends the warm air towards the back of the case.

 

sammorris,

Let's be honest though! You run at higher temps than a lot of us are willing to run our computers to get that quiet. I don't know how your temps are on the new MB though. Hope they are better than they were on the P5N-E! Mine makes a bit more noise now because my CPU cooler runs a couple of hundred rpm faster. Still I can't complain as the temps only hit about 52-54C running Orthos and idle just above room temp! DVDRB/CCE only sees about 42-44C.

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
theone

 

I don't know about Orthos, but nothing I've run so far can get my CPU above 41-42C load. The motherboard puports to be about 25C (yeah, whatever) but the heatsink is probably around the 40-50 mark. Warm, but nowhere near as hot as the P5N-E.

 

Hi Guys, Thanks as always for all your input!. I must say this is an area I never even thought existed!, I was of the understanding that the case fans that came with case was the be all and end all!. Anyway, I googled the fans you have Russ and I was just wondering will those things fit on mine aswell?, or will I have to mod it some how?, I dont really wanna be making larger holes in the case if I have to.

Thanks>>> Sam

 

Yep, the FM121s are solid performers provided you have a rigid steel case. The more lightweight Aluminium ones may cause them to make quite a lot of noise. if you do have a lightweight or Aluminium case, you may wish to try the Scythe S-Flex.

 

sammorris,

I'm glad it runs cooler than before. I don't know what you are using for your temps, but both speedfan and Everest don't read right with this chipset. At least the Everest temps check out right on mine though. Doesn't read the voltage right and it's reporting the NB fan at 4400 rpm. It's a 3000 rpm Silenex! LOL!! The others are correct! So the way I make it is the CPU is at 24C, the MB is at 37C and the cores are at 22 & 19C right now and it's 72F (22C) in here. The reason I think the Aux. is the MB and the MB is the CPU is because when I was testing, I turned off the fan and the Aux. temp went up. Plugged it back in again and the temp went down! There's supposed to be a new version (v4.20) of Everest out that works properly with the P35 chipset. Speedfan is even worse! It reads much higher than the digital probe reads.

So far I've had no problems, but after thinking about it I think I'm having trouble getting to 3.6GHz and above is because of the memory. I think if I get some 1066 memory, I will be able to OC more The lowest memory speed I can get at 3.6GHz is 1000MHz at the lowest multi (2.0), and no matter what timings I set it at, it won't boot. It wouldn't run at 1000MHz with the E4300 on the 965P board either. It's good for about 960MHz and that's it. Still that's a 20% OC on the memory.

I did have one wierd thing happen though. When I turned it on this morning, it powered on, then off and then on again and re-set the bios. I re-set everything and it's been working fine for over 22 hours. It was very cold in here this morning (below 10C) at 7 AM. I even ran Orthos for 3 hours with no problems. I've already run it for 12 hours without a glitch so I don't know. Everything I've run has given me no problems, including processing a movie with RB/CCE, Playing games and running a pass of 3DMark 03 I would think that if there is a problem it would have shown something by now. If it does the same thing later today when I get up, I'll call GigaByte on Monday and see what they say! Glad yours is running fine!

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
Russ :>)

 

sheeny33,

No problem fitting! You have 3 120mm fans in that case now! Leave the front one as is and change the 2 rear ones. Drop the fan speed to about 1300-1400 rpm and it will move quite a bit of air. Given the amount of air they will move at that speed (around 150 cfm), you will more than likely be able to go even lower with both of them. If you get the "Stones", be sure to turn the knob all the way down when you start it up as they make considerable noise at full chat! They should work even better in yours than in mine as the combined airflow of 2 of them should do a better job of exiting the hot air. Yours should also be quieter than mine as you can run them both slower than I can mine.

Does you side cover have a mesh screen? That's what it looks like in the picture. If it does it should work real well. Once you find out what rpm works best, it's basically set and forget. Just be sure you use the supplied control, and try not to laugh too hard at the size of it (very tiny)! LOL. The electronics are all in the fan itself so all there is, is the tiny little pot to control them. I do not recommend using Speedfan to control it as it wasn't designed for control by voltage as they uses pulse count to set the rpms.

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
theone :>)

 

Hey guys, me and my wife just lowered the temperatures that I gave before by at least 10c!, anyone with this case needs to read my next post which I should have up when I wake up, its to long to explain right now because its my bedtime!lol. Thanks guys and goodnite.

 

Anyone with an Aurora 570 Case and wishes to lower the temperatures by 8-9c instantly must take the air filter off the front intake fan. Last night I decided to clean the front fan,which incidently I hadn't done before because it seemed like to much trouble and besides that, it wasnt overly dirty anyway!. To get to the front fan you have to take the two casing sides off, remove the drives and then unclip the whole casing front off!. The front fan air filter pretty much just clips onto the fan. I took this off and gave it a good clean. My issue with this filter is that it inhibits the intake of air!, I'm not sure if its a design fault(not enough holes) or if its the type of material used to do the filtering but its just not letting enough air in. So I just left it off, and guess what, my temperatures are now alot lower at my overclocked speed, 10c lower in fact!.

I hope this helps people who have this casing or are going to buy one, my wife did mention to me afterwards that when she was doing some research for me on the case before I bought one, she read that they suggested taking the front filter off but didnt explain why, they also said its a pain in the a%# to reach!lol. All said and done though dont let all that put you off buying one because its a damn good case and well designed internally.

Sam.

 

Forgot to add, thanks Russ for your last post!

 

sheeny33,
Just trying to be helpful! On my Cooler Master Cavalier case the air intake for the front fan is on the bottom of the computer. To replace the fan all you have to do is remove 2 screws on the bottom and 2 screws below the door opening and the aluminum piece slides right out. very simple. That's why I tell most people not to change that fan. Being less cfm than the rear and the side fan insures air is drawn in through the side vent where it can cool the video card, and keep it's heat away from everything else. I'm moving about 100 cfm with the rear and side fans and only 23 at the front. It's not too difficult to see why this works so well.

BTW, I also did some reading on your GigaByte case and one of the main complaints was that the temps were about 10C higher with the clear insert than it is with the mesh. Makes sense to me! LOL!! Glad you got it cooled down a bit!

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
theone :>)

 

Hi Russ, When you was getting these temperatures was it at stock speeds?. Another question, because I have a Zelman 9500LED which as you know is pretty large on the MB, will there be enough room to fit a new NB cooler+fan?, I havent decided on which one I'm getting yet, when finances allow though I will be upgrading my fans & NB cooler etc.

 

sheeny33,

I was at 355 fsb at 3.2GHz with the E4300. I haven't found a chipset cooler that works as well as just modding the NB heatsink with AS5 and adding the Silenx fan. I tried a Thermaltake CL-C0034 Fan and haetsink and it didn't cool as well! I sent it back! I had to offset the fan about 1/4 inch away from the Freezer 7 Pro and could only use 2 screws but it worked just fine slightly overhanging the heatsink at the bottom to clear the CPU cooler. I think it works better because of the orientation of the fan, blowing air directly into the MN cooler. It seems to be the best way to keep any heat directed away from the CPU cooler. Seems to work just fine on the new one as well. There I mounted the Silenx directly on the center of the NB heatsink. It's the only thing that lowered both the chipset and the CPU and has cut down heat migration between the NB and the CPU. I think that's the biggest reason that the whole thing runs cooler.

sammorris will confirm that I did some extensive testing, complete with screenshots for another Forum because there were some doubts as to my temperatures. The tests were performed at 3.325GHz, encoding with DVDRB/CCE, running OCCT and providing thermal info with an older version of CoreTemp. My computer performed just as I had said it did and at the temps I had previously claimed.

Clockin On at the Speed of Light,
Russ :>)

 

Can I see a pic of your GA-965P-DS3 with the northbridge fan? I don't see how it will fit because of the Freezer 7 Pro so I want to se how you did it.

 

abuzar1,

I'm using a 20mm x 20mm x 40mm chipset fan on my NB as well as my SB on my asus P5W DH Delexe with a zalman CNPS9500LED cpu hsf. plenty of clearance.