The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!

According to Newegg specifications, the Tuniq 120s fan, has a range between 1,000 and 2,000. I gather thats an estimate, since I've seen roughly 2,200. How can I get it to STAY at 1,000 Rpms full time? And when the CPU heats up, it would obviously compensate. Is the only way to do this manually? Via the fan controller which came with it? Would it not run at lower RPMs? I guess I'm trying to understand this fans technology, as well as PWM fans LOL! As well as the settings the BIOS gives me. Finding myself pretty intimidated by all this I thought auto settings, would take care of EVERYTHING. Simply put, run at low RPMs until required to speed up by the system... Not flat out stop LOL!

 

Be careful with your amounts. As long as you get full coverage without extra gooping out the side, you should be okay. As an example I would almost describe the amount I use as "half an M&M". Not even full coverage is completely necessary though because the actual processor die is only under the center. When I pull my coolers off, the spread out thermal paste doesn't even reach the edges of the heat spreader. But it gets perfect full surface coverage over the entire die.

You can play with your fan speeds manually with Speedfan. Think you have to turn CPU fan control to "voltage" then in the BIOS. My fans work just fine and scale their speed quite nicely with auto though. You shouldn't need to adjust it manually, it should happen on its own.

On Auto(PWM) both of my Tuniq 120s idle at 1000-1100 and load at 1400-1600. on Auto(PWM) the Tuniq should never shut off. Also noticed that max speed is a bit above 2000 as well, but I've never run mine that fast.

Also, the included fan controller is mediocre at best. Plug the Tuniq directly into the CPU fan header right next to the socket.

Auto settings are poison for any seasoned overclocker. If you want to push that chip you need to learn some of the features of the motherboard. Especially with AMDs, auto settings when OCing almost never give you a stable OC. All stability tweaking must be done manually. It will detect conservative settings and loosen RAM timings, not give stuff the right voltage, etc. Go through every settings and make sure everything is correct. Mainly check you RAM timings and voltage to make sure they're set to meet the spec on the package.

Remember when setting a fan to auto you need to switch the speed control to PWM in the BIOS. It won't work otherwise. If you did this part right that's all you should need to do for auto speed control.

 

Estuansis,

The Present Tuniqs don't have PWM fans. PWM fans need all 4 pins of the plug, and the plug on the fan is three pin. I just looked them up a couple of days ago.

Best Regards,
Russ

 

I manually control the OC, but the fan settings should be pretty much auto eh? If it senses heat, it adjusts itself automatically. THAT'S what I meant by auto LOL! The Overclock SHOULD be done manually LOL!

By the way, Half an M&M is a good guidline That's exactly how much I gave it. It looked PERFECT

 

Oman7,
Did you try cutting off the System Fan Control. It controls the other 4 prong plug on the motherboard, and it interferes with the CPU fan. Just turn it off and set the Smart fan mode to Auto and it should work better!

Russ

 

When you apply TIM, do you pull the HSF off the cpu to check or just go by how it feels and how much, if any, oozes out the side?

 

Setting it to PWM in the BIOS is what made auto work correctly for me. Any other configuration would not work. This is consistent across multiple boards from different brands. And both of my Tuniq 120s have the 3 pin header.

Yeah I found that fans are best left to auto. This is one rare case where auto settings are usually the best route. All of my case fans have been converted to 2 pin so they run full out(CM quiet fans though) and my CPU and GPU fans are the only ones left to auto. It takes some experimentation to find the best balance of airflow.

Yes System Fan control should be turned off completely for auto to function properly. Russ seems to have explained it better. Mind you the only Gigabyte board I have to look at ATM is my X38. The DFI is much more deeply optioned and has different degrees of control.

I used to be really paranoid. But, generally, once you figure out the right amount and your technique, you can just put it on.

 

Since the material felt nearly liquid like(slimy), I didn't mind taking a quick look to see how the material applied. It looked VERY good.

The system Smart fan is disabled. It has no effect on how the CPU fan runs. If I disable smart cpu fan function, it runs at 2150Rpms non stop. If I enable it, and set it for PWM, it runs 2150Rpms non stop. If I set it for voltage, it seems to adapt for heat(engages when heat is detected) every 30seconds or so.

You can see, that this is quite confusing here. I can't make any sense of this. Perhaps Speedfan is in order LOL!

 

It might take some fiddling. I might mention that the intended outcome allows for smooth gradation of fan speed adjusting with the temps. Idle should be low-RPM, but the fan should never stop.

I have a feeling your program might be somewhat partly to blame for the confusion. It gives an "at the time of reading" for your fan. ie, the 30 seconds intervals are the program, not your fan speed. Speedfan tracks your fan speeds in real-time ;P

Also, I'm pretty sure speedfan can be used to set values for your fan according to temps. Don't quote me though

EDIT:

Also, Speedfan has always been a reliable temp monitor for me as well. It matches the same values given to me by CoreTemp, RealTemp, and Everest.

 

Actually, I was guesstimating the 30sec interval. Regardless of my guesstimation, the fan DOES stop. Or at least everest seems to think so. In which the temperature increases, and the sensor disappears entirely.

I Just want it to settle down, and run at a regular rate ALL the time LOL! whether its 1000 0r 1200 rpms, doesn' matter. I just don't like hearing it startup every 30seconds or so. Perhaps the bios is flawed? Or I simply need a better CPU fan controller?

Is there not something like Rivatuner or evga precision, for CPU's? Please don't mention easy tune. Its a friggin joke. I tried it, and it wouldn't behave properly. I want it to rest on 1000 to 1200 rpms full time. Is there no way to achieve this?

I apologize. It may be everest malfunctioning. The CPU fan is not stopping. Or at least not according to Speedfan. It seems to rest at 200+/- RPMs...

 

Speedfan doesn't even affect the problem. Its like its staring at me and laughing LOL! Everything I do has no effect. Except running the fan at 2150Rpms fulltime. Which is NOT happening LOL! As I said, I'm half tempted to run the fan controller that came with the cooler. It's as though the bios is the problem...

 

Oman7,
You are not following me here! Tuniqs do not have PWM fans. Set the mode to Auto! The temperatures will govern the voltage!

Russ

 

Russ, I don't even understand FULLY what a damn PWM fan is LOL! I'm trying everything I can at this point. The only effect I have on this system is either disabling auto(which causes full time 2150RPms), or auto voltage which causes my current dilemma. Dilemma being that the fan starts and stops rather obnoxiously. If it were only hitting 1200 rpms, no big deal. But its hitting 1700 audible rpms LOL!

 

Oman7,
Did you at least try EasyTune in a 60 (top) 40 (Bottom) ratio! It's easy enough to set, and don't forget, don't close it by the X in the top right hand corner. That will turn it off, and you don't want to do that. Just click the - key. You can also try the Automatic settings in EasyTune as well. EastTune might be crap, but the fan controller works great!

I'm still trying to find out why my computer straightened out and stopped running so hot right after I installed a newer Everest. I have no explanation for the much lower NB temperatures. Maybe sensors were receiving false information with Everest 4.60. I know for sure it was hot because you couldn't comfortably keep your hand on the heat sink, when the motherboard temp was 46-47C. All I know is now it's working properly, and the NB heatsink is so much cooler. I'm still not sure about the 8x/16x slot yet either. I ran 3d Mark and the scores are the same as with the Main PCI-E slot, a hair under 20,000 at the base settings, at 1024x768. Exactly what I get from the main slot! You can call me confused, but you can also call me happy! Those temps I posted are just amazing to me!
EDIT!
You could use one of these. It's PWM!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185049

12.38 to 52.71 cfm, 310 to 1200 rpm. Should be very quiet!

Russ

 

I tried easytune, until I was blue in the face LOL! I cannot override the way the fan wants to run. I cannot get it to settle down to less than 1600Rpms, without making it stop entirely. Whether its bios settings, or Easytune. I almost wonder if something is seriously wrong...
I'm half tempted now, to get a frontal fan controller for the case. That way I can control everything myself

 

Russ: My version of Everest ups my CPU temperature by 9 Celsius if it's left open, and will eventually slow my PC to a crash. I really need to update it...

 

My CPU is running at 34C idle right now. I discovered that increasing my GPU fan speed, pulled heat away from the CPU. Now the interval in which the Tuniq 120 fan spins up is a great deal less. Perhaps I would benefit from moving the GPU down to the lower slot eh? Since I only have one GPU, it would not slow to 8X bandwidth. Or is not every board that way?

 

Now that I think about it a majority of my crashes were when I left everest running. Do we have the same version (5.30.1900)?

 

Red_Maw,
Apparently various versions of Everest have an affect on the actual temps. Using Everest 4.60, my Northbridge was uncomfortably hot. You couldn't keep your hand on it for very long with temps as high as 47C, confirmed with the IR Thermal Probe. Now the motherboard temps don't go over 37C, which the thermal probe again confirms. Even running OCCT on all 4 cores doesn't push the motherboard past 43C. When I installed the same Everest you have, the temperature issues vanished, and the heatsinks are barely warm to the touch. I don't understand why, but I'm very happy with the results. Figuratively speaking, it runs cold as ice! This bodes well for a future 955BE on this motherboard. With all the screwy things that happened with this build, I guess I should have expected something unusual to happen, and it has! LOL!! I look at it this way, a 25% OC for the price of the 630 gives me more than satisfactory performance. More than double the performance that the 7750BE dual core had, so that's progress. I couldn't be happier with it!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Omega: more likely, increasing your GPU fan speed cooled down the ambient temperature of your card, so the heat didn't rise up into the CPU area.