Wow jeff. If I wanna push my 940, gonna need water cooling to do it. And unfortunately, I'll have to remove 2 sticks of ram as well... I wonder whether the coolit could cool a 940 at 1.55v? That could be borderline eh? Probably have to cool the VRM as well...
Russ, nah I meant this: Which CPU/cooler was that? I can't believe an i7 would get as hot as 60+ with an H50, something's not right there.
Sam, My bad I left out a 0! LOL!! 4.020GHz@1.5v. It will boot up at 4.1GHz, but I didn't try to go higher on the voltage to try and get it stable. If something isn't right, an awful lot of people suffer from very high temps with the i7 then. I googled it and came up with tons of people experiencing much higher temps than 60C who were questioning the temps 80C was not uncommon. Some got even higher than that using supposedly high end coolers. The Mugen 2 and the Megalump seem to have had some issues with the heatsink not being flat. There also seems to have been problems with some of the Core i7 chips themselves, with the heatshield's not being flat, not to mention bowing of some motherboards. Perhaps the coolers weren't installed correctly, washers left out and that sort of thing. All I know about it is from my googling the problem. Russ
From my experience, getting to 4Ghz on the 130W i7s, especially the earlier models that took a bit more Vcore, fully stressed, 70-75C load is about typical, using coolers like the NH-U12P and TRUE C. Even with the i7 940, that's still a 35%+ overclock, so the increase in temps is unsurprising. With more slight overclocks like 3.6-3.7, it's not normal to see the temps much exceed 60C. When comparing to Phenom II chips, however, with the same cross-platform coolers, thermal paste and fans, higher TDPs seem to result in lower temps in software though, which leads me to think that the Tjunction settings for one (or both) of the brands is off. Whether AMDs report too low or Intels report too high I'm not sure, but 120W CPUs like the 955BE vs 130W CPUs like the i7 900 series with the same voltage increases, the AMDs seem to report far lower temps, and I see no reason for that to be the case. Granted, the surface of the die may be different, but any decent heatsink with thermal paste should make that a non-issue. I would be interested to see measurements of the temperature of the actual heatsink itself.
Sam, The 955BE/C3 I have is 125w. I did see a picture of a Megalump that had squeezed all the stock thermal paste that comes applied to opposing outsides. To my way of thinking, that would be caused by something being bowed out, more likely the Heatsink, because it is harder. I would think if it was the heatshield on the CPU, it would break the CPU. You could see in the picture, where it was wedged to both sides, with the middle almost completely clean. I read a lot of complaints about their heatsinks not being flat or level. I personally have no faith in that particular design, because over time it would be much more prone to leakage, by cracking of the pipes from vibration. Remember, the two sides hang on their own sides pipes, with no support between the sides. I would imagine it would be fairly easy to bow the middle by accident, since it has a gap in the middle. I tried to find that pic again, but mainly thanks to FireFox's totally inadequate history files, I couldn't locate it. One would think they would have used the one from netscape as it had all the information, such as time and file types. There's also no tree view. And you can't open something without it being moved to now! It's a total cluster job! I've turned it off again, because it's all but useless! Russ
Much the same problem with my Tuniq 120s. Almost all of them are convex to some degree. Most are tolerable but a few are a bit iffy. Using a razor blade, I found out that one of mine was one of the not-so-good samples. A quick 600 and 800 grit lapping job with a mirror polish removed the bow and improved my temps considerably. Both coolers had it to some degree. The newer one cooling my Phenom was almost perfectly flat, but had enough of a bow to make lapping beneficial. Not essential for good temps, but definitely if you want to get the proper cooling performance.
Estuansis, That's one good thing I have to say about the ECO. I've yet to hear anyone voice a complaint about it not being flat. Good thing too, as it would be a bear to lap as the pump housing extends a little farther down past the heatsink itself. Extremely flat though! I sincerely doubt that doing it would make enough difference for it to be worth the effort of removing the whole thing, taking it to the shop and polishing it with a Mylar disc. I figured I'd best leave it alone! Russ
1.5V for 4Ghz wasn't too uncommon for the early 920s, the D0 dramatically decreased the required voltages.
1.4 is the recommended maximum, yes. Some chips could make it to 4Ghz without exceeding that, but a lot of them couldn't. I seem to remember Jon's 940 needing around 1.44V, which caused it to run in the low 70s.
I was talking about my 955BE. LOL!! I ran it just a few hours ago at 4.0GHz with 1.392v and it booted right up into windows. I may play with it a bit more in the future although I want to be ready for the first really hot day and see what the temps are first before I start Messing with 4.0GHz. Russ
Yeah AFAIK Russ's chip is one of the best clocking 955s I have seen. Also Russ, just got done installing the Eco-120 on my friend's 1090T. I must say the quality struck me and the install was a snap. And one of the only aftermarket coolers I've seen with a proper TIM application. So well done I didn't even bother to clean it up. I just slapped it on, lol. After seeing his temps I can hardly imagine that lapping or different TIM would make a difference. It runs cooler than my 940 does with the Tuniq fan maxed. Speaking of which I will finally be getting some new fans for my Tuniqs. Specifically Noctuas, but I'm not sure which model I want as there are so many and not all are made for CPU HSFs. What woould you recommend for a good airflow/noise ratio and 24/7 use sandwiched in a heatsink?
Estuansis, Noctua NF-P12-1300 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608004 Best Price $17.95 http://bestbyte.net/merchant/mercha...de=FA12NTP13&Category_Code=FA12&Store_Code=BB I've never seen a smoother, quieter and more vibration free fan in my life. It comes with one L.N.A. 1100 rpm,46.23 cfm, 16.9dBA adapter plug and one U.L.N.A. 900 rpm, 37.33 cfm, 12.6dBA adapter plug. 150,000 hour MTBF. Full 1300 rpm, 54.36 cfm, 19.8dBA. It was designed to be a CPU cooler fan, as well as a case fan. I wish I could afford 4 of them, and I love my Scythes! EDIT: I forgot, it comes with a 6 year warranty! Russ
My chip could be a good clocker. 3.9 was unusually easy. I stopped there, because I assumed going further could be difficult, at very little gain. I figure I'll probably slap the 965 in my other board, and put the 1090t in this board, down the road. Which will pass the 940BE on to my brother. I'm sure he'd be tickled with a quad core. He's still running a Athlon 5200. Which runs windows 7 very nicely I'll probably be buying Coolit's for the 1090t and the 965 at that time. Get my hands dirty with some water cooling I MAY even try the more advanced coolers. If I can piece one together for a reasonable price. But I won't do it in my current living environment. I would prefer a workbench to do this kind of stuff on
Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has good knowledge of overclocking a Q6600 on a ASUS P5K Deluxe any help would be appreciated
Trying to get stable at 4Ghz again since heat isn't an issue anymore but I'm getting instability (BSOD) after 1.5-2 hours of linpack (crashed at ~41 pass @ 4GB). Any ideas on what I need to raise? Some say put the IOH up to 1.3v, which is probably what I'll do next since it seems to respond well to NB voltage boosts. current settings - Vcore [1.33] CPU PLL [1.88] QPI [1.33] IOH core [1.22] ICH core [1.22] TIA, redmaw
I dunno if this is the proper thread but whatever. Just got my hands on a Gigabyte MA790X-UD4P. The board works fine, POSTs fine, and everything detects fine. One issue is that after a half hour or so it will just shut down. On the desktop or in games, and if in BIOS it will just lock up. Granted I haven't tried it myself and my friend who gave it to me is a bit absent minded so Id almost call it user error. Any thoughts on this? Will be giving it a try tonight on the bench. Any suggestions would be welcome. Also, I didn't ask about the temps so there's a possibility it has heat issues. Will be reseating all the chipset sinks with some ceramique before testing. Also, this has been tested with all differejnt hardware except the PSu which has remained the same. A Corsair 620HX. Mind you I myself haven't tested it at all so I don't know the full extent. I do know that the system it was in would still run IBT on high stress for 10 runs problem-free but it will still shut down randomly. Checked the board for physical damage and nothing I can see. Shorting is one possibility I considered.