The Official OC (OverClocking) Thread!

Well,
the piece of copper I looked at was nothing like I wanted so have gone to plan B.Did some searching and came across this:
Thermal Integration TI-V77L originally designed for socket A/370.
Did a search on ebay and picked one up brand new in the box for $1.25+$7.00 postage!!!Thats Aussie dollars!!
The copper core is approx:20x20mm so will it cover the cpu die just nicely.I'm going to modify it for water cooling,so it should hopefully give me some excellent temps.It should be here next week.

 

Crowy,

Let me see if I can come up with something better for you. I think you are going to run into some problems with that heat sink!
Be Back soon!

I'm back!

I think your idea is good but I don't think the materials will be up to the job. A piece of 2"x2"x3/8" copper would do the job nicely. You should be able to salvage the bracket to hold it down from an old HSF. Cross drill it in a drill press with a drill bit meant for 10/32 thread for the fittings. I've got tons of those in plated brass so if you need, you get, on me!

Best route to take though, is this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835118122

Worth the money and the piece of mind. Just mount it and connect it up to your pump and see how it does. On the heat sink you posted, the minus is the Aluminum/copper combination, especially around water! The copper core is small and would limit how effective it would work as the connections could only be made at the copper, otherwise it would leak! I'll keep looking though!

See what you think,
theone


Theone

 

Hit the wrong button!!

 

theone,
when you look at it from this angle, I reckon she might leak a bit!!!!!!!ROFL!!!!!!


BTW have a look here just about every heatsink on the planet reviewed circa 2000 to the present day:
http://www.frostytech.com/articlese...earch&Category=198&CategorySearch=Get+Listing

Russ I know copper has better thermal properties than aluminium,but what I like here is the solid block of copper.I should be able to use 10mm hose no problem.I'm going to make my own fittings out of copper tube also,so there will be a bit more thermal conductivity there.I'm going to set the fan to draw the air through the heatsink rather than blow down on top of it also.The aluminium fins should absorb the cold from the copper core so that should help things as well.Thanks for the offer of the fittings you have there Russ,that was very kind of you.
Regards,crowy.

 

crowy,

Yeah, you got me there. My roomie pointed that out to me. Looks nice and thick from the bottom though. He just asked me what all that space was doing where the fins were! I thought it was solid below the fan! LOL!!! Scuse me while I wet my pants from laughing!

Seriously though if you could find a cheap copper cooler with a thick enough base to cross drill it should cool just about better than any thing else. I'll look around some more.

BTW, I installed the new Asus E616A2 DVD-Rom drive today. Fast drive and very well made. Fit and finish are second to none! Dropped a known rip time with RipIt4Me from 18:23 to 11:57! It's AtA-100 so that's where the speed came from!

Be back!

I'm back!!!!

Guess what I found? The answer to your problem (I think)! Check it out! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835114032

It's thick enough to drill and it's solid copper and shouldn't be difficult to mount on your CPU! See what you think! Oh yeah, it's cheap too!
theone

 

Russ,the base on that cooler is only 3mm thick!!!!


I could drill 20x1mm holes in it,try to find 40x1mm connectors to suit and have 40 little plastic hoses running out the side of my case

Would look like I've got 5 baby octopuses hiding inside
In all seriousness though I'll try the one I'm getting and see how it goes.

 

crowy,
If you look carefully you will see that it's much thicker, and it's not hollow inside. I think they are talking about the base that mounts on the CPU. The whole copper area is twice as thick and includes the thickness of the mount arms. Note the screw holes and you will see that it's solid from the base of the fins on down!

Theone

 

Russ,
Now I can see what you mean.
So that would give me 6mm to work with.
That means the ID of the holes would only be @max 3mm.
I was hoping for more like 10mm holes.

 

Crowy,
I was right! I went to the manufacturers web site and the base thickness is 6mm! Not 3! No problem drilling the right size holes it that. 4 or 5 holes depending on which end you want the return line I have plenty of the right size tubing and fittings and you are more than welcome to them. I don't like to use copper tubing for fittings as they will eventually crack from fatigue and vibration! Run into that problem all the time on cheap water blocks in Dental units. The ones with the brass pipes, last just about forever! Screw in brass fittings are the safest way to go. I use them all the time in my work and they very rarely break off. Even them it's usually caused by corrosion from city water and the thread rots off the fittings. 50/50 distilled water and anti-freeze ahould work best! There won't be any corrosion at all!

Happy Computering,
theone

 

Crowy, 10mm would be way too big. The whole idea is to get the water to spend enough time in the block to take away the most heat, and to have enough material in the block to absorb the heat from the CPU. 10mm pipes would move the water so fast that it wouldn't cool very well. Our water heaters for the water syringe on Dental units are almost the same size as a CPU cooler base and they use the drill size for a 10/32 thread. Use a #21 drill bit and it will be perfect! the water flow will be fast enough to get the most benefit, with a little help passively from the cooling fins as well. You could even mount a fan on the fins!

Happy Computering,
theone

 

Russ,

I hope I don't have anything vibrating enough for that to happen!!
I'll give this one a go and see how it works.
If it's not what I expect,I might give that one a go.Regards,Crowy.

 

Crowy,

Bad choice of words on my part. It's the frequency the buzz from all the fans and the PS make that's the problem. Copper tubing is softer and more flexible than the hard copper of the block so it flexes ever so slightly. It will fracture where the soft copper meets the hard It's a matter of harmonics which was my main problem this past week with my air turbine design. I finally traced it to the tips of the impeller resonating as they approached the speed of sound. At 540,000 RPM the turbine blades run well above the speed of sound but when you put pressure on it like in drilling a tooth, it would constantly slow down enough to tear itself up because of the harmonics it qould encounter. Once I figured it out it was easy to fix the problem. I'm almost done with it and the design should be approved in about 2 to 3 weeks!

Happy Computering,
Russ

 

Russ,
Thought this may interest you..
http://www.gizmag.com.au/go/6245/

Keep us posted!

 

Crowy,

See that silver thing in almost the middle of the picture? What I'm working on is less than half it's size! Roughly about the diameter of a cigarette butt! The ball bearings are even smaller. The whole assembly is about 5/16" long and has a minimum of 5 seperate parts and a max of about 9. Little bitty stuff! The narrowest bearings are about 3/32". Years ago when turbines only spun about 200,000 RPM the turbine cartridges just slid into a metal housing and the bearings were held in place by the housing and a screw on cap. Today's handpieces would deafen you with that type of mount so they are suspended in tiny little o-rings to quiet them down. Even then, they still make 65db and up! Loud suckers! Next time you go to the Dentist and he drills a tooth, think about the fact that inside the very end of the drill, there's a turbine spinning at over 400,000 RPM!

Happy Computering,
Russ

 

That's amazing stuff Russ!!

I used to hate dentists.........now I hate them even more!!LOL!!

 

Crowy,

Here's a pic of one of the simpler one. It's a bit larger than life. Check out how many parts!



Amazing!
Russ

 

SUP, i today ordered a setup that i hope to take to 4Ghz. i bought 2GCorsair dual channel ram PC6400 5-5-5-12. i was going to get the PC6400C4 4-4-4-12 version but the site i ordered from was sold out. will i be able to reach 4Ghz with the ram i got? the mobo i also ordered is an Asus P5B Deluxe, and i got a water cooling kit so I'm not worried about overheating. thankx

 

BigCharb! Sup!. With those timings and that mother board, i think it will not be possible to reach a stable 4 GHz overclock. I see the numbers 3 and .8 in your future my friend

 

SO...the only way to reach a stable 4Ghz overclock is with 4-4-4-12 ram timings? if so than i will try to see and return the ram i gotten and get dome with those timings. the processor for my build is an E6600 2.4Ghz. i have a personal goal of 4Ghz, and I'm pretty much go'n to do whatever i can to get there. thanx for the input

 

BigCharb,
Hi buddy.
I don't want to put a dampener on your system,but at 4ghz you may or may not get into windows but I can promise you it won't be stable.
Water cooling will help with your o/clock but even water has it's limits with heat dissipation.I would aim for 3.6 stable.Anything beyond that will be a bonus.Phase change cooling may get you stable @4ghz but for an extra ~$1000 is it worth it?