The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

I don't know if you gave any thought to it or not? but you gotta chose and new motherboard also..I'm gonna let the other fellows point you in that direction..but you gonna have to have a case to hold it all in..everybody knows my favor which is Cooler Master but like everybody has there own favors also right now my cpu idle at 27C at Oc'd 3.00ghz from 2.66ghz stock..but.I'm pretty sure the other guys will suggest to you others brands..but.I bring to you the link for Cooler Master types in your area Thanks..
Link..
http://www.komplett.ie/k/search.aspx?q=cooler+master

i think this is the Memory Mort is suggesting correct if..I'm wrong Mort and suggest the type your thinking...

Link to Memory: http://www.komplett.ie/k/ki.aspx?sku=324986

 

Id say DDR2 800MHz memory is better, as you wont need mroe than 677mhz tbh, but the extra just for future upgrades

and if your not OCing, then you might aswell stay with the normal coller from intel, as its very quiet and does what it says.

i put a 24" monitor there for you, but if you feel its too big, then i would recomend, for the 20" a Dell ultrasharp, OR for 22" a sansung.

 

shaf,

what is it with you and DDR2 800 memory? are you stuck in a rut? for just a little more money a person can get DDR2 1066 which is tested and guaranteed to run at that speed. sure some DDR 800 will run as fast if you loosen up the timings but there is no guarantee.

I wouldn't run an oem cpu hsf on my mom's pc, if I built it for her. just my 2 cents.

 

On a budget that big, I'd stick in 8500 memory, why not?
The rest of the components are fine, but I wouldn't buy a Benq monitor. I just think something that prominent and something that has to last that long should really come from a quality manufacturer. Shaffaaf is right about Dell and Samsung being decent brands, but none of them are 'numero uno' for a specific size. All sizes I've witnessed put Samsung marginally ahead for image quality, but Dell marginally ahead for build quality (you'll very rarely see dead pixels on a Dell, they're more common with Samsungs). Dell Ultrasharps are, however, pricey, as they are the top dog of both build quality and connection inputs.

Eva: The 'minimum performance' for games is run on an equivalency system. The minimum to run would be say, a P4 3.0Ghz for a single core, or Pentium D 3.0Ghz for a dual. The systems can tell, for example if you run an X2 4200+ (only 2.2Ghz) that it equates to a Pentium D of a clock speed higher than that, and pass it. You need not have a 3Ghz CPU just for that sake alone.
Again since you're on a reasonable budget, you may consider a Core 2 Quad Q9450.

P.S. The Intel stock cooler is also quite noisy and very poor at cooling. I disregard anything but full speed as at anything less than full speed it's only really useful for cooling laptop grade or undervolted chips. The Freezer 7's so ridiculously cheap and so much better, there's no reason not to buy one.

P.P.S. The 4870 seriously kicks behind, it's twice as fast as anything from the last generation, the second fastest solo-core graphics card available, and the fastest of all that are reasonably priced. If, for whatever reason you need to shave cost off this build, however, the 4850 is well worth a look, significantly cheaper, and not far behind with performance, still outpacing any single card from the Geforce 9 generation.

Demanding though Warhammer Online will probably be, a PC like the one outlined will cope fine, at close to, if not maximum detail, on a 22" monitor.

 

The best way to buy a monitor is not by the manufacturer but by the panel used in its manufacture. Most Benq LDC use TN panels which are easy to identify because they usually have fast Latency response times so faster response times are usually from cheaper panels. If you see a response time measured in GTG then that is also a clue. Monitors with better picture quality are those with S-PVA or S-IPS panels.

If you're into photo editing then the S-IPS panes are better but they are also outrageously expensive and can often be a little slow for gaming. In my view the best middle ground panel are those with S-PVA panes because they have also have true 8 bit color versus the 6 bit color of TN panels, their color is good enough for photo editing but fast enough for gaming and they tend to be lower priced than S-PVA panels (except for samsungs new LED backlit S-PVA's). No matter who has their name on a monitor if it has an S-PVA panel then it is made by Samsung a manufacturer whose quality is second to none.

I can't help you with prices in the UK but if you set your sites on the best priced S-PVA you can get your hands on you will be quite happy.

 

Indeed, the best image quality will come from the best panel, but there is also the quality of the workmanship for the rest of the product, and given both what I've seen of benq monitors and indeed all their products in the past, I wouldn't trust them on that basis, never mind the terrible image quality that a lot of their screens I've seen have produced.

S-IPS is certainly incredible for image quality from personal experience, but S-PVA is certainly decent enough, assuming as previously mentioned, you don't encounter any dead pixels.
Also, FWIW, my 11ms GTG, 14ms BTW S-IPS screen is perfectly fast enough for gaming, I can't see ghosting or any other errors even if I look for it.

 

Last I read all of Dell's 30"s were S-IPS, as was the Apple Cinema and HP L3065 but the Samsung 305T is S-PVA along with the other subsequent manufacturers. As previously mentioned, my black to white is 14ms, which I read is quite good, I've seen quite a few 6ms GTG monitors that are 16ms Black to white.

I have no objection to people using Samsung monitors whatsoever, the fact remains however I have never seen any dead pixels on a Dell, not one, and I've seen at least a dozen of them if not more.

 

Hey Sam, my 30 inchers are all S-IPS(HP L3065). Damn, I've sold like 8 of these, but I cant keep one for myself because my computer is too retarded to support it.

 

Lol, no dual link DVI on integrated graphics!
Track down a Dell 3008WFP, that'll work off VGA, if you could bear to use a thousand pound monitor off a crummy integrated chipset!

Creaky: Never seen an issue with Samsung's TVs, only monitors, and it's not very common either. However, I know about half a dozen people with Samsung monitors and two of them have had pixel defects. Including myself, I know near 15/16 people or so with Dell monitors, every one is flawless, as are the 4 or 5 people with Samsung HDTVs...

 

AHH, but can I get a brand new Dell 3008WFP for 450 dollars? I thought now lol!

For all the money I save with the HP(which I have heard actually looks better than the Dell) I could build myself a gaming computer!

 

450 dollars is just ludicrous. I paid $1500 for mine in December 06, and that was half its RRP back then.

 

I read that Dell was swapping them out for S-PVA panels and which you got was hit an miss.

Cant' get a 30 inch samsung for that either.

Samsung using a single DVI-D link and does not require analog.

[qote]DVI-D defined:The 1142 series DVI-D cable is a dual-link, DVI-D to DVI-D digital video monitor cable. Unlike single-link DVI cables, dual-links feature a full set of pins for increased bandwidth, allowing you to view higher resolutions at longer distances without loss or interference. [/quote]

It seems to have what I want in a monitor for a fair price.


http://www.hardware.info/en-US/articles/amdnY2pvZGea/Samsung_30_inch_and_LED_monitor_review/

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Possibly, I hadn't heard that, but in any case, mine is an A01 revision from 2006.

The Samsung, like the Dell 3008 (but not the 3007) will support Single link as it's scaled. However, to use 2560x1600, you will need to use Dual link DVI.

 

soph i have a P-VA pannel, got it for £200 but not sure if they will ship to IE so i put in one that would go towards the budget. i doubt being TN would be much of a difference then a VA panel, and seeing as her son is gaming, then its better.

mort, i am saying it because why get something more expensive if we know OCing wont be done, AND we dont know if the builder know about the BIOS enough to set the straps so that the RAm runs at its rated speed. if he leaves it all on auto it will be runnign 1:1 so 333 on the FBS and 333 on the ram (thats 667 effective) which is still less than the 800 i was advicing.

i know i am always goign on about PC6400 but im not in america, its about £60 for 4GB of PC6400 where are 4GB PC8500 is £80. £20 is a big difference, which can effectively kill a budget. its the differnce of a HDD size, or better PSU/CPU/MOBO, its not £5 or £10. and yes i know not all PC6400s are guaranteed to run 1066 but i am sure ALTO of the 444 12 ones reduced to 555 15 and adding 0.1V on the RAM. i know alot of people that have done it, and i persanlly have done it.

 

I don't think you'd notice the difference. I like to think myself a gamer, and owning an SIPS, the worst of the lot for gaming, it's absolutely fine, and more than suited to the purpose.
The extra cost of RAM could certainly sway the cost of a CPU or perhaps the motherboard. However, the PSU should never come after budget considerations. A quality, well-rated PSU, is always a first consideration. I know you know that, but given how many other people read this thread, I thought I might stress it in case people get the wrong ideas... and that does happen.

 

Think of DVI-D as scaled down HDMI without the sound. Unlike DVI-I it will need a vga connection for booting. DVI-D supports only digital signals but that is not an issue. Sam, as long as you've known me when was the last time that I asked you for advice? When the answer is never then why do you think I'm prepared to take it now. LOL

 

I'm not giving you advice, I'm elaborating on your statement:

More than just you and me are going to read that.

 

Then for their sake let's hope they know which one of us to listen to.