The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128347

there is the P43 board. it is cheaper but also 2 less sata ports. only 6 reg no esata....

 

http://www.tekheads.co.uk/s/product?product=609787
That's the last EP43-DS3L I can find in the UK, I believe it's being withdrawn and replaced by the more expensive DS3LR.

 

You've not heard of ebuyer? :O
I'm kind of aghast at that, ebuyer is the first online store I've ever used, they're probably one of the largest in the country. In the past ebuyer had soso support and speed, but in the last couple of years they've done very well for themselves, and I certainly haven't had any problems their end. Now the citylink drivers are a slightly different story, but if you happen to live in a 'good' area, there's very little reason not to use ebuyer.

That board you've chosen however, is monumentally expensive for what it is, i.e. a basic P43 board with a DDR3 socket on it. Unfortunately since the motherboard market has been hit hardest by the collapse of our economy, finding a replacement board isn't going to be cheap, Mobos have genuinely doubled in price.
This is the most reasonably priced of them on the ebuyer site:
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/145686
Or then there's this
http://www.scan.co.uk/Product.aspx?WebProductId=894360

 

Sorry about your machine, buddy. I would be VERY upset. As my backup computer is VERY outdated. My HP pavilion alot of you guys have heard me chat about. Lol, Check this out! Think I need to clean my case up a bit? Im constantly reconfiguring. The PSU's got me a bit intimidated. ALOT ALOT of cable to route. Its tempting to just get a SUPER case. You know... A FREAK LOL.


Almost uploaded the RAW uncompressed images. I dont think people would appreciate that! LOL

 

Non-modular PSUs, ugh. As for S-ATA connectors, I've not broken one from a PSU, but the cheap splitter ones I have.

 

Yah, I DO! LOL. Definetely agree about the sata cables. Sure seem cheap dont they? Hate um, but I love'um LOL

 

I read something about modular that shy'd me away. Something about inconsistancy/unstable power. Really doesnt bother me. )

 

omegaman7,
Definition of a Blivet! Those pictures! Ten pounds of Chit in a 5 Lb. sack! LOL!! You could use a full tower that's about 4 foot tall! LOL!!

Just funnin with ya!

Russ

 

LOL russ! Yah... I really need to clean her up. LOL, I was tinkering 5min out of bed. <------FREAK. Wanted to get my second Optiarc in my case. My LG turned out to be a disapointment. I will slap it in a external eventually though.

 

Omegaman: It's garbage, some people tried to have us on here that it made a difference, while conspiracy theories came about for the metal plated connectors on some PSUs like the Hiper Type-Rs, the plastic clip style connectors in PSUs are the exact same things used to power graphics cards, and you don't see people moaning about those.
What disappointed you about the LG drive? Not had any problems with mine so far.

 

Inconsistant burn quality, Even more erratic buffer issues than the optiarc, SLOW SLOW ripper. It will serve a purpose, not sure what yet. But I dont always have time to check (actually watch the movie, check the data, etc) the discs for flaws. With my lite-ons, and optiarcs, They've proven themselves performers (I Can trust them) Yes, im critical.

 

Modular PSUs are not without their problems either. I've had a couple of them where someone added a HDD 6 months after setting up the computer and the end that plugs into the PSU arced from oxidation. Rare, but it does happen! I use contact cleaner when I install the modular leads!

The only problem I ever had with a Sata power connector was my fault. I couldn't see well enough and didn't want to move the computer and tried to put the power connection on the drive backwards. The little part of the "L" broke off Works fine though. Both my WD and the Hatachi have both molex and the Sata power connectors. I've tried both and prefer the solid molex. That and it's easier to make my wires neater. My thermaltake has extremely long wires, so they are much easier to hide the excess and the ones I'm not using.

Russ

 

Surely it's the other way round? It oxidised because it arc'ed. I haven't encountered it myself, but I wouldn't put anything past a cheap PSU of course.

 

O-man7 you might look for some patched f/w for the LG. They are known as good writers and some of the LG's are the best for ripping certain media. LIKE PS2 or XBOX games if memory serves. IIRC you ordered one of the newer LG's and it might take a while before some "different" f/w comes out for it.

....gm

 

Oh... I wasnt knocking it too hard. I just have ALOT to back up right now, and I need consistency! I wanna play with it more, but no time right now. I wanna reinstall windows this weekend, among other things

 

Oxidation is not caused by arcing! It's caused by the air and aggravated by moisture. That's part of the reason lots of electronic stuff is packaged with little silica-gel packs because Silica-gel lowers the dew point by absorbing any moisture in the package or box. Rust is a form of oxidation. Copper turning green is. Arcing is just what it says, the electricity arcs between the two points of the connection and leaves carbon deposits, which in turn eventually start to burn. It also generates heat, as in arc welding and is caused mostly by poor connections. Molex plugs in old underpowered power supplies used to do it all the time in computers, especially when CD Rom drives first came out. It didn't used to be uncommon at all for the white plastic of the molex plug to turn yellow, then brown and finally even melt because of the heat created by the arcing.

Best Regards,
Russ