The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

Will, if im understanding you correctly, You wish to be rid of not only the shield on your icons, but that irritating nag, when you click on .exe files. This is how you disable the UAC.

The easiest way to enable or disable the Windows 7 build in administrator account is from the command line. Open a command prompt with administrator rights. This is done by right-clicking on the command prompt icon in the Windows 7 start menu and selecting Run As Administrator from the available options.

windows 7 administrator account

To enable the Windows 7 administrator account:

net user administrator /active:yes

To disable the Windows 7 administrator account:

net user administrator /active:no

Although that may not get rid of the shield on all icons. I still have some remaining shields LOL! But they don't bother me anymore

 

OM7

did you change your UAC settings? if not move the slide bar down to the the second line from the bottom and that should get rid of the shields.

 

If this is the slider you're talking about, shouldn't all the way down take care of that?

 

OM7

yeah that should do it too but seeing as how i like to be noted of any programs that makes changes to the computer. i set it to the second line from the top.

 

Will,
Actually, I think it depends on what it finds on the disk that determines what it displays. Different versions of XP do the same thing. The drive's firmware also has a lot to do with it as well! I've found that it really doesn't matter as Windows will sort it out for itself and perform the right function when whatever program you run tells it what to do. Hasn't failed me yet!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Ah ha! Another successful reformat With all drives left installed. 3Tb of data left undamaged Now to get all of my installs done, and clone the results so that it'll be a simple transfer down the road

Looks like the new set of Ram just arrived. I'll know today if that was the problem. If not, i've got a bigger problem than I thought...

 

Way to risky for me lol.

 

I simply avoided the drives in question. My OS drive is 150Gb. My storage drives are 1Tb. Pretty easy to avoid I realize this is still somewhat risky. A simple miscalculation by a faulty processor for instance. Or simply me in a haste to get things done Believe me, I was still nervous about doing it LOL!

 

It probably is pretty safe with the exception of user error, which is why I avoid it lol. The only time I tried reinstalling and OS with multiple hdds still connected I suffered a user error (me) due to haste and lost many GB's.

 

I just unplug all my other drives with only my chosen OS drive plugged in. User error in the past etc, lol.

 

Same here.. NO need for me to worry about messing up more than one drive at a time... hehehe.

 

LOL! You know...if it were not for my current environment, I'd probably be doing the same thing. Simply disconnecting all the other drives/devices. Let's just say it's discouraging to have to open up the tower. Imagine working on a car in a very tight garage...

I work part time, which leaves me lots of time to learn new things. Computer building, Programming, youtube videos, Photoshop (My favorite). Unfortunately, it doesn't pay much. But the job is worth being patient. For in the long run, i'll be making more than the average person. And besides, the medical benefits are some of the best around (If not the best). I do look into other alternatives for making money, but none of them appeal to me. I always said I would never work for the money. I enjoy computers a lot. Hopefully, one day I can do some programming and be set

Long live the computer era LOL!
Kevin

 

Oman7,
You make it sound like we are just making a mistake! We are not! My old boot drive was 38GB. I wiped that partition and re-installed XP on the only 38GB partition on my computer. When the drive formatted by XP install, it also formatted another partition on a different physical hard drive. The reason you loose so much is it only formats the drive as the same size as the boot drive and the recovery screws up because it was only looking for 38GB on a 116GB drive! That's why I lost about 30% of what was on the partition. I've accidentally done it twice, and there won't be a third time!

I'm all for bringing back IDE until M$ can prevent this from happening! I don't know what causes it to sometimes do that, but M$ has been aware of the problem for a long time, and they need to get their ass in gear and fix it! The cable manufacturers also need to step up their quality control. Nothing new, as serial has always been a PITA anyway! That's the reason Parallel printers took over and then USB after that. I'm not even sure if they make Serial printers anymore.

Russ

 

Agreed 100% with that. I can't begin to count how many times a bad cable was mistaken as a hard drive or board. Should the quality of our cabling really be something we need to watch? Ridiculous.

 

Estuansis,
They knew there were problems right from the start with the sata cables. The originals had no semblance of stability at all as they didn't even have a proper socket. Then they made the plastic socket for them and they did improve, but still people have problems with the connections. The maddening part is that just unplugging it and plugging it back in usually makes them work again, but not for very long. At least when an IDE cable went bad, you knew what the problem was, almost right away, because more often than not the drive would just disappear from the desktop. With Sata, you can have a flock of different problems and not have a clue as to what's causing them!

My first hint that I had a problem was when I burned a DVD and it went all the way through the burn, but wouldn't write the lead-out and just hung at 99% done. I couldn't even remove the disk from the drive, as it spun like crazy and wouldn't open I had to switch my two drives, turn it back on , shut down and switch the cables back and it would work on the next boot. Maybe it will burn the next one, but probably wouldn't burn another. After looking very closely at the cables, the contacts in the plugs need to be a bit stiffer, as it appears the main cause is oxidation between the contacts in the plug, and the edge connector. It's my personal belief that the spring pins in the female plug aren't wide enough or stiff enough to be up to the job! Remember too, that there is so much more vibration in an optical drive than there is with a hard drive, what with the mass of the disk spinning and the tray opening and closing. Note also that there are many more problems with optical drives than there are with hard drives, because of that.

I recently tried a little experiment, using the cable I just replaced that recently went bad. I used a piece of a thin business card between the plug and the plug socket, to make the connections tighter. I have worked the hell out of both my drives the last couple of days, and both drives have performed perfectly through more than 20 consecutive burns! That's over 3 hours of constant burning To me that means it's not the wires inside the data cable, but the plugs that are the weak link! I don't think they give enough consideration to the heat inside a computer and the electrical load placed on the connections. I think that's why the cables with the spring clips, give less trouble, as they keep the connection just a little bit tighter. I may try some of that Dielectric paste on the connections to keep the air away from the contacts to keep down oxidation. It's the same kind of paste they use in cars for the lights, and it works very effective for them, so why wouldn't it work for the Sata connections in a computer? I've looked at the edge connectors, under a microscope, and you can see tiny spots of oxidation and carbon traces on the contacts. The Dielectric paste would eliminate any oxidation and carbon traces, by keeping the air out completely! It seems to handle the harsh environment that Automotive lights are constantly exposed to, very well! Just my opinion, of course, but I have had a lot of experience with high resistance connections on other types of equipment, so why should this be any different?

Russ

 

Russ, I did say that I would prefer do it the safe way! My environment REALLY sucks. You have no idea LOL! I didn't mean for it to sound like people make mistakes (though they do). Computers make mistakes too. Which is why I would rather take every precaution, believe me I ain't perfect, Im simply logical about things. Not to say that others are not. That's not it at all!

On another note, the new ram is going in now. Yesterday didn't work out, due to a particular someone being around, which makes things...Tense LOL!

 

Well...it's a good thing my mother has as much patience as I do. Still not running.

The only 2 things left to check are high improbabilities. The PSU, and the Athlon II propus. I've never had a bad CPU. So the odds of the CPU being dead are next to none. And the PSU was running my secondary like a champ only a few weeks ago. And surely I didn't get two dead mobo's in a row! The only way for me to check the CPU is to probably update my 790X boards bios, and slap her in there. But I feel so strongly about that NOT being the problem. Here's my configuration:

Mobo MA785GPMT-UD2H
CPU Athlon II X 4 Propus 620
Hdd WD5000AAKS 500Gb
Optical drive Samsung SH-S223Q Sata
G-Skill DDR3 1600 F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ (Its on the QVL)
Power supply Corsair 400W CMPSU-400CX

Any ideas much appreciated. Notice there is not one ide device installed. Surely that is not the problem on a cutting edge board?

 

Ah ha! I forgot to put the Case im using in the configuration didn't I! LOL! And apparently, there is now a strong possibility that the switch is faulty/finicky somehow. I read a review from one person saying that their reset switch sticks. What I did was, take the face of the tower, and had the switches themselves dangling there. It started right up. I also had an IDE drive installed. Sorta kill two birds with one stone. I started to have the idea that there was a switch problem due to it not turning off, when I would test it BINGO! It really is too bad too. It's a pretty silent case, light weight, and aesthetically pleasing.
RC-335-KKN1-GP

 

Oman7,
Your case is still being sold so you should be able to get a power switch from CM! Temporary cure, is to use the reset switch for power until you can get the power switch replaced.

Happy New Year,
Russ