The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

I'm comparing to the WD1002FAEX, which is $120, since that is the like-for-like of the WD2001FASS - there is no 32MB cache S-ATA 2 2TB drive in the WD Black series.

Also, 300% more does not mean 300% of

 

Well, I'd make a lousy math tutor

 

Ah hah! I'm noticing now that 1900 Rpms is more bearable. I guess it simply needed to acclimate longer. Right now I'm 80% of load, and holding 37-38C. Not bad eh!
You know, I imagine not many people have their tower only 1.5Ft from their head LOL! I imagine that's a factor within itself

 

Sam,

Yes and no! It's more about the density of the air, and the speed at which it moves through the cooler. The higher the altitude, the slower (to a point) the air needs to move to be effective. Places like Denver, where the altitude goes up over 12,000 feet, computers run very warm. So do cars! It's the air density. It was totally amazing to me the see a car dealer selling me a kit to lower the cooling fan speeds. I had a Fiero at the time and the breeze from the cooling fan would part your hair! It had a better than 20", 7 blade fan driven by a 1/16th HP DC motor. Slow the fan down and the car wouldn't overheat.

It's the same principle with CPU fans! While it can be the coolers ability to remove heat, usually it's not how fast the heat is being removed by the cooler, it's how much heat the air can pick up at a given speed going through the CPU cooler efficiently. The problem get's compounded by a lot of case's inability to have decent airflow. It doesn't do a lot of good to remove the heat from the CPU if you can't get all of that heat out of the case. As you can well see by the results I posted, I have no problem either cooling the CPU or getting the hot air out of the case. It's not like it was always that way, because I spent many months experimenting with the airflow, it's direction, different fans, speeds, and fan location, etc.

The sad part is, each computer is different. Different Video cards, HDDs, and so on. Every time you change something inside the case, all that experimenting and learning go right out the window. With mine, I see no problem using my F/64-Pro with the Phenom II x4 955BE. The airflow profile is exactly the same, so it should work the same. The airflow in the case won't change at all, and it's known to be a very cool running chip, at least with the C3 stepping it is. I'm only planning on a daily 3.8GHz anyway, which should be between 1.242 and 1.388v. I'm not even interested in seeing if it will go above 4.0GHz. My E-Penis days are over! ROFL!

I look at it this way. I'm running my 95w Quad CPU, cooler today, than I could run my 65w Athlon x2 7750 just 6 or so months ago, and the 7750 was also a cool running chip! I expect the 955BE to work just fine. If it doesn't, I'll be the first to admit I was wrong. Even then I don't think I'll need anything like a Tuniq Tower 120 or a TRU-E. Something more like this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835207004

Not too much bigger than the F/64, with more surface area and a fourth heatpipe. It should do the job if the F/64 won't, and the fan can be controlled through the controller, by the motherboard set to voltage just like the Silverstones could. We'll see!

As far as Kevin wanting to make it quieter, I think he bought all three Scythe fans. 800/40CFM, 1200/68CFM and 1900/88CFM. Looks to me like he isn't taking any chances, and covering all his bets! LOL!!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Oman7,

Let me ask you a question! I'm willing to bet that you are not planning a daily 4.0+GHz runner. Yours runs very good at 3.8GHz, so why push it higher. I ruined a very good E6750 that way. I had it running beautiful at 3.8GHz, but I had to be like so many others and get it to 4.0GHz. E-Penis again! Good for your EGO, but not worth a lot in terms of overall every day performance. I decided on 3.8GHz based on everything I've read and friends who have 955BE/C3s already overclocked. The general consensus is 3.8GHz is the sweet spot with most 955BEs. Some have even said that the benchmarks don't show enough percentage of improvement from 3.8 to 3.9GHz to be worth it, and it takes silly volts to get much beyond 4.0GHz. Besides, for me, I can't even afford to buy it yet, so when I do get it why would I want to risk damaging it and having to wait another 2 or 3 months to be able to save up for a new one. 3.8 will do just fine!

Think about that!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

.......Ok. I thought about it. I want 4+Ghz LOL! If I plan on running BD rebuilder, I'd like to get the most out of the encode times. Though no doubt I'll be doing it during my sleeping hours regardless. I more or less just like learning this stuff. I'm better at hands on kind of stuff. A lot of whats explained about OC'ing goes over my head. But when I begin experimenting myself, it becomes clear.
No, I didn't get all 3 fans. Just the 1200 and the 1900. I have a feeling that 800 just won't quite cut it. 1200 will probably do it, and I've heard how quiet that is. At least on the Tuniqs fan. The scythe will probably be at least slightly different.

Believe me, I won't fry my CPU. While I don't consider myself expert, I'll know what her limit is before killing it LOL!

I think I have plenty of exhaust russ. The top side fan blows upward, and it always feels pretty cool. The rear 140 might need upgrading though. It blows some semi warm air out. Not sure how the HAF's stock 140 rates compared to after market fans...

 

Thanks sam.

 

red maw, i have been reading alot of reviews and 4.3 on air for the 930 seems to be the clocks being achived!

 

That's a decent OC, a lot better then what I've been hearing. Thanks for info.

Unfortunately, or fortunately, my reasons to upgrade, apart from getting off this "antique" hardware, vanished once I got serious about it. The noise/vibration problem appears to be gone along with the instability one. Hasn't crashed once in ~2 weeks, something I haven't seen in around 6 months lol. If the current trend holds for another 2 weeks I'll see if it can OC without causing stability problems.

 

So what do you guys think of this fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129248
Its getting good reviews, seems to be quiet and aesthetically pleasing. My current 140mm fan in the rear of HAF 932 runs at 750Rpms. The one in question is silent and runs around 1,000 while 54.7cfm.

Hmmm, now i'm looking at the specs on the Coolermaster site, and it looks like their stock fan may be better...
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2810

So my best bet may be to run the rear fan to a molex connection, forcing it to full Rpms. Couldn't hurt to try it

 

GREAT fan buddy!!! I has a few of them and love 'em!!! (the AEROCOOL)

 

Oman7,
The AeroCool is a piece of junk! Expensive junk! It doesn't move close to the amount of air advertised, and it's no where near as quiet as claimed. The blades eventually fracture at the hub as the plastic gets more brittle with heat and age, and break because of the extreme angle they come away from the hub at at. I've seen two of them and you can already see cracks developing on the hub. One was 10 bladed because it lost the 11th! just another pretty face that doesn't do as advertised! Blue lights and a flashy chrome finish on the blades do not make a fan good! Lying about it's specs don't either!

My 1200 rpm 53.24 cfm 120mm Silverstone FN-121 is far superior to it in airflow performance, and is much quieter, even though it's 120mm. Quieter even than the 26.6dBA advertised. It's blade design is far superior to the AeroCool's

Russ

 

I assume you've got the rear 140 in the HAF on auto control, as the speed of the fan is 1000-1050rpm normally.

Also Russ, I have recommended several Aerocool Streamliners as they are exceptionally reliable. My mate Nick's radiator had of those 2 fans exposed. We were forever prodding our fingers at them, messing around, and through all of it they were still working perfectly the last time I saw him, despite them being at least 3 years old.

 

Fffff Me Russ... posts like that upset me greatly. Because you've seen one or two fans have issues doesn't make the fan a PIECE OF JUNK!!!! I have 3-4 running in my case right now and have been for over a year now... they are fantastic and the quietest fans I've messed with that push that amount of air. I don't have any Silverstones and at this point there's NO need to buy any.

I also have a few CM fans and they do the job just fine.

I'm sorry Russ but it just seems if ONE person has an issue with a component, whatever it might be then it's a POS!!! Sammy has defended that fan before and I actually bought a few by his recommendation. DON'T tell anyone tho...

I have seen a few things that we all agree on and Thermaltake fans are lacking to say the least... well at least the ones that I"ve used.

 

Fact is, even the cheapest fans don't lose blades unless they're damaged. Apart from it being a health and safety risk, it just can't happen, scientifically, unless the plastic manufacture is absurdly bad, in which case you'd notice immediately when you got the fan. Therefore, the Aerocool fan which Russ had must have been damaged. Likewise, the Silverstone fan I had that snapped a blade was me breaking it, not faulty manufacture. I'm still unsure on the one that started billowing smoke. While it wasn't run in its correct environment, the other two fans I used in the same way didn't do the same.

 

I did note the HAF's 140mm fans specification on their site. Apparently it MUST be running on auto. I seriously doubt that I'm gonna hear it at its max speed. And since I don't think I can manually tell THAT ONE to run full board, I'll simply run it to a molex connection, forcing it to full blast Though it will probably only effect my temperature marginally. And even then, probably only my northbridge temp. perhaps the CPU by 1 degree. But underload, perhaps it will help more.

 

It's audible, but mostly due to air turbulence from the square-holed fan position. The fan isn't especially noisy, but it's not especially powerful either

 

I didn't think it was powerful. I stuck my hand back there and was not impressed LOL! Unfortunately the egg, does not carry many respectable 140's. If any...

 

Sam,
Perhaps you are right! I've rarely ever seen a fan break a blade off, and the ones I have seen had obviously been damaged as only a part of the blade broke off in all instances. Still, a good number of reviewers did warn people that the fan blades were very fragile, and the two I replaced were showing signs of crazing on the inside part of the blades where it meets the hub, like it was trying to pull itself away from the hub. The complaint with the fan that ran, was vibration and not enough airflow. It was not very quiet and did vibrate a bit. I didn't even try to run the one with the missing blade, at all! I did note that the blade peeled off the hub, like a banana peeled from a bunch! He said that it made a loud noise and when he investigated it and found the fan nor running, brought it to me! Then too, most people would throw it away if they had to pay to ship it, as fans are generally not worth the trouble and expense to bother with.

Russ

 

The fan blades look fragile because they're thinner than usual and made of lighter plastic, but as to whether they're fragile enough to actually be a problem, I doubt. As I stated before, I know someone who as about the most abused case fans of all in terms of blades being struck, didn't bother them at all, and the reason for this is the speed. Do what we did to a 2000rpm fan and, apart from risking injury, you're risking snapping a blade. At only 1000rpm though, the forces in place really aren't that much of a deal.
Vibration on Nick's 140 aerocools was actually very good compared to most fans, due to the use of an opaque mounting frame.