The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

You're sure you're looking at the right temperature? If it's unchanging you might be looking at a board temperature instead.

 

LOL! I have the right temperature. I was unsure at first, but now I'm 99.9% sure The temperature when running stress tests increases about the right rate, and decreases the slowest. E.g. the core temperature rise rapidly, where the dye/Cpu temp rises slowly, and decreases slowly. Pretty sure...

 

If you run a proper test, the CPU die temperature should raise instantly and then very slowly rise during the test.
Here's how a typical stress test looks:

 

ok. I think I goofed. Dye is the same thing as core. Right? If so, then Yes, the Core/Dye increases rapidly, where as the CPU as a whole, does not increase very quickly. I was once told to not worry about the core temperatures. Only the CPU temperature. If the heatsink and fan are doing their job, it should be reflected in the temperature differences between the core/s and Cpu whole. Sorry. When I said Dye, I was thinking CPU heatsink. Where the Model number and such are

 

I thought you bought some of the AeroCool Streamliners for your case? I think the NZXT, AeroCool, or the XIGMATEK will work just fine... You want to move some air and do it "sorta" quietly.

 

Wondering about your case I'd consider a new one... ROFL... look at this linky It's NOT a bad case for the money and with free shipping.. there are many others available, even from that company but for the price and FREE shipping I"m not sure it can be beat.

 

GM, your LINKY requires revision LOL!

Nah, if I can salvage my current case, I'm all for it. It's not a bad case really, it just needs a little modding. Heck, the hole in the top is probably gonna help a lot! Since that PC won't be doing any gaming, I'm not concerned with heat coming from the GPU, through the CPU

Yes, I did just buy some scythe slipstreams. But they're 120mm. I would prefer that it were a 140 or larger on the top of that case. Larger the better. Though I can't go larger than 170mm. I realize bigger isn't always better, but perhaps in THIS case it is. That case does get pretty warm. I think the larger the hole, the better An aesthetically pleasing fan will definitely be in order though

 

No, die is the temperature of the CPU area as a whole. Core is the temperatire of each core within the CPU.

 

Ok. Somewhere in there I got confused. I've believed that for some time now.
The CPU Die does noticeably increase fast. I wouldn't say rapidly, as the cores do. But yes, the Temperature that I believe to be the CPU/Die does increase fast, and then when I stop the test, decreases fairly slowly. Depending on the cooling. and the Cores decrease pretty rapidly. Pretty common for me to see cores rise beyond 60C pretty quickly, where the CPU slowly climbs to 50-55C.

 

I fixed it ... and adding again. lol. linky

 

Not a bad looking case GM. Though at 60$ shipped, that's not practical for me right now. Where as a cheapy fan is

 

It should be $50 mate. There is a $10 promo code for FREE shipping. NOT talking you into the case just trying correct a possible mistake.

 

Whoops! Didn't notice that up there Thanks for the correction

 

Definitely gonna need to upgrade the 100Mbps Netgear switch. Which translates to an effective 11MB/sec transfer speed. Which is a joke. In my opinion anyway. Even my WD5000AAKB drive is 4+ times faster than that. I'm looking at replacing it with I believe the one sam has.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122140
Don't worry sam. I haven't forgotten about the needing to reset the switch, if I'm connecting new devices. Otherwise I only see 100Mbps connection speed thanks again by the way

 

Russ everything is correctly seen on my board Rob is having the issue not me with his UD3P and his got the Lastest bios also when.

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/Motherboard/BIOS_Model.aspx?ProductID=3137&ver=

I got my board it came with theFB bios when Robo got his board later after me his came with FD bios, I flashed mine to his bios two weeks ago or later with my same setting in Overclocking at 3935ghz and my Oc settings did'nt work with those bios it would'nt even boot the 3 restart option then back to stock. I used F8 flashing with the bios on a flash drive, I don't flash within the OS, so...I flashed back to my original Bios of FB and my setting work fine

Me and Robo have the same Board UD3P 1.6v and the exacted same CPU Batch Number and all S-spec SLB8V FPO/Batch# L846B715, I believe those bios are holding him back from a good Oc and them Auto features can cause the auto to sky rocket your Volts any where it see's fit atlease in manual you can manager your volts where you want them to be. I Never did and Never will ever have my voltages in auto in Oc even if. I had memory rated between 2.0v - 2.1v overclocked or not it's gonna run at 2.1v regardless. I learned that strees test's fail when you don't have enough volts to secure the beating.lol true more voltage supply's heat but sometimes less voltages supply's failure you can't have both only 1...

I'll Holla later. Gotta get this AMD Build together

Happy Building
Ya'll


Ps. Robo you might wanna try a Back Flash to FB it would'en hurt

 

Here's some new temps thanks to the "Blow Dryer" Fan. I like to call it that LOL! Which puts my system temp even lower than the Haf 932. But at the cost of a lot of noise. TOO much noise. I suspect a top 140mm fan, will not only drop the system temps, but it will also evacuate heat away from the cpu, before it can heat up quite soo much. As well as an intake fan parallel to the CPU. So basically, air will come in, pass through the cpu sink, and be evacuated before heat can spread. Seems logical too me

The everest cpu temp dropped rapidly, after stress test. Where as the core temperatures took longer. I thought it should be vise versa. I guess it depends though.

 

im not sure if going back to FB bios would make a difference, but as of yesterday there is a new bios update for this board. FE, here is a link to it.

http://www.giga-byte.com/Support/Motherboard/BIOS_Model.aspx?ProductID=3137&ver=#anchor_os

i might give this a try?

 

Will,
I only asked because your CPU and Motherboard temps appear to be reversed in your 21. February 2010 @ 17:44, post. There is no way with 3 cores@36C, and 1 core@39C, that you could ever have a 31C CPU temp. The difference is never that great. 2, maybe 3C is all I've ever seen. The giveaway is which temp goes up fastest, the CPU or the Motherboard, when it's under heavy load. Dollars to donuts, it will be the Motherboard. If the Motherboard does go up faster, it's actually the CPU Temp! The MB temps climb much slower!

I confirmed all of that and more with mine when I was using Everest 4.60. All the important information was there, once you discovered where to look. I used EasyTune and AMD O/D to confirm everything, because they directly read the hardware. It's part of those extra pins on the CPU. When you install an AM3 CPU on my motherboard, it links certain things within the CPU directly to the hardware on the motherboard. It also gives you more options in the setup than with an AM2+ or AM2 CPU (my board does all 3).

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Now you got me thinking,I may have a stuck core temp ,I compared them all to realtemp,core temp and everest and they all read the same 39c something happen

 

Thanks will. I've only ever trusted Everest, my bios, and Speedfan for CPU temps. But you just gave me a push to compare with other utilities. While Realtemp is incompatible with Phenom 965, Core Temp appears to be reflecting perfectly. Although I think it's showing the stock CPU voltage. Perhaps that's what it's supposed to show. In any case, I now have a new toy to toy with LOL!

I don't understand whats so difficult about interfacing with the bios, and reflecting the proper temp. Surely most of that info is universal!