The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

3kJodo,

OK! You remove the fan that comes with the ECO, by removing the 4 screws that hold it in place. Install the Scythe fan in place of it, open side of the fan towards the Radiator. By open I mean no framework on that side, just the blade towards the Radiator. That's "always" the intake! Look on the front side of the Radiator and you will see 4 screw holes. You only really need 2 3/8" screws of the 4 screws to mount the original fan to the front side (the rear "needs" all 4), cross corner, with the "Blade only" side pointing away from the Radiator and towards the front of the computer. You will need to plug in the front (Stock) fan into the CPU_FAN header, as it's a 4 prong plug on the fan. The other 3 pin fan can be connected to the other 4 pin header. Usually that header says Sys_Fan1. I don't know what motherboard you are using, so I can't be 100% sure what it says! Give me the make and model and I will make you a diagram! Give me that info, and I can be 100% sure and let you know where in the bios the fan controls are!

Russ

 

Russ, he says he has my mobo

 

Oman7,
That's all well and good, but that doesn't give me a clue as to make and model! LOL!!

Russ

 

yes it does, its in omegas sig

 

Thanks Shaff,
The way it was written, it left me thinking that he had bought one from Oman7. I just wanted to be sure!

Russ

 

LOL! I can see how you might make that mistake

 

3kJodo,
First go into the setup. Press Ctrl + F1 at the Main Menu screen, so the settings can be saved. Enter the PC_HEALTH section. Go down to CPU Smart fan Control, and set it to Disabled. If the System Smart FAN Control is still active, Disable it as well. It should be inactive, but just in case, check to see if you can change it. If you can, Disable it. If you can't you are done with the fan controls. Save and Exit the setup!



Fan Headers.



Plug the Stock fan with the 4 pin connector into the CPU_FAN header. Plug the Pump into the PWR_FAN header to the right of the memory, just above the ATX Power connection. The other two are at the bottom of the pic on the right, with the F_PANEL connections in between. You can use them as you see fit!

Should be a piece of cake!

Best Regards and Happy New Build,
Russ

 

Good good that's how I have them plugged in atm I will stick the front fan and side fan on those 2 bottom fan headers. Snazy you found a blueprint of the MOBO ah the immense library that is the internet. I should really make a sig to cut down on confusion on what pieces I did end up getting. Its almost a clone of Omega's I think, I haven't looked too closely at what his is. Oh so the fan I took off the chassis to put the Eco in should I stick that above the CPU blowing air out the top of the case or on the other hole on the side panel sucking more in or just keep it somewhere in case of fan failure. I've never plugged Sata cables in before and the location is kind of difficult between the HDD bays and all the cables runnin hither and yon. From what I've read here about sata cable failures so I have only gently tried inserting one of the cables to no avail, is it a hard insert like installing ram or is it supposed to be gentler like an external USB. Oh and another question the CM 690 has a bunch of wires coming from the case intended for the MOBO most of which I was able to correctly insert into the appropriate headers but the esata wire I was unsure if that was supposed to have its own header or go into the bank of sata headers there's another cable that says AC 97 hd audio and I think that goes over by the audio header but I don't recall if the cable is compatible with my MOBO. At first when I was putting the pins in the fpanel head I matched the colors and thought boy this sure is easy! For some reason I was looking in the GB manual and came across the fpanel header diagram and it of course has stuff on there that my wires aren't labeled for so I double checked my layout. Sure enough if I had tried to start the computer none of the fpanel would have worked silly me thinking they color matched. So far I have enjoyed building a computer the only hairy part was installing the cooler. In retrospect I probably should have secured the fan to the chassis before installing the pump. Having it hanging on the chassis top while trying to screw the pump down was a bit unsettling I hope I didn't mess up the paste too much.

 

3kJodo,

Not really. It's from the Manual that came with your motherboard. I downloaded the manual and took a screen shot of that page and cut it down with Photoshop.

With the fans, you will just have to try fiddling around with the case fans, to see what works best. No two computers are exactly alike, so you have to do some experimenting. With mine, I was surprised at how much difference there was between when the CPU was air cooled, and when it was water cooled. My main problem was chipset cooling, and getting some air to flow over the NorthBridge heatsink. I used the 70x70x15mm fan from one of the older AMD stock CPU coolers, and slipped it in the space between the bottom of the pump, and the plastic thumbscrews on the pump mount, blowing air down. Your case is different, so you may not have that problem.

You can lay the blame for that on the ridiculous length of some of today's video cards. Sata ports used to stick up from the motherboard, and were pretty simple to plug in, but the Gamers bitched about the cables being in the way of the video cards, or the ports not being accessible with a lot of today's video cards, so you see a lot of Sata ports that are just like the one's on your motherboard. Fortunately on my Cooler Master RC-534+, my HDD bay comes out very easily, so aside from being a pain to have to remove it, I can see the ports to plug them in.

Forget about the esata wires. You have two esata ports on the back of the motherboard, just below the Coaxial S/PDIF Out Connector. I personally wouldn't connect them at all!

The Audio plugs match the Audio header on the motherboard. I use the HD audio plug, and leave the AC97 unplugged, and have an Optical cable connected to my Sound system. It all boils down to what you have for a sound system.

I just set a small towel on top of the motherboard, and left the plastic cover on the pump heatsink until I was ready to screw down the cooler. Couldn't have been easier.

Look at it this way, it's a learning experience! In spite of the seemingly complexity of all those connections, it's pretty straight forward, and simple. It's much easier today than it was 21+ years ago, when I did my first build. Back then nothing had modular plugs, so each and every single fine wire had to be connected manually, and had it's own little square plastic plug for it. Today, there's almost never any motherboard jumpers to set, so all in all you had it much easier, than back in the day! LOL!!

Hope this helps you understand better,
Russ

 

The gaming market is a booming business. Since they can't compress the abilities of say an HD5970 into a super small form factor, they become longer. I personally see nothing wrong with having the sata ports sideways on the mobo. I made the transition easily

And yes, cables should plug in with fair ease Sometimes disconnecting them is trying though LOL! I use a tiny flathead screwdriver to push the release, then tug on the cable.

 

i prefer side facing sata slots awell due to ease of cable management, wish they would do with the with 24pin atx connector aswell

 

A side-facing 24-pin? Interesting idea, but no, I disagree. It'd be better for cable management, but it would work with hardly any cases since 24-pin ATX connectors are so thick and rigid. The side-facing SATA slots make a lot of sense, and let's be honest, you still only see them typically on high end boards, so moaning about the fact that they're there when you buy a high-end board isn't really going to accomplish anything
They take a bit of getting used to, but in any decent case, they don't make things much more difficult.

 

@3kJodo

As far as what Russ wrote. I have the same setup in my case but with the 690 II case instead but only with the AMD 965BE C3 cpu same chip as omegman7 installed on AM3 board 1 step above Russ's ma790XT-UD4P Rev 1.0. I beleive the push and pull theory is Good and does depends on the fan CFM rate also. I have the rear fans or in another terms radiator fans getting juice directly from the psu 4 pin molex connectors not the board at all also have the pump connected as well for the eco,But my issue right now is with my board. I believe as. I talked with a AMD tech in Sunnyvale,Cali yesterday on the matter of my idle temps even with the eco installed my 965BE was tested on there motherboards in fact one was the ga-ma790FXT-UD5P
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128377
idle came out as 31c with the stock heatsink attached now that's got me thinking something is wrong with my board to show higher idle temps then there's internally something is Wrong so when. I get the chip back and install it again and it does the same as b4 at stock speeds.I'm RMA the board back to gigabyte to get the problem fixed or get another board and my not be a Gigabyte this time around. I gotta find some results of people having better luck with the 965BE C3 GM on some boards around with the idle temp issues in hand and with a ATI card installed as well that. I have HD 4770 also the card that brings more heat to the case believe me.I should'en have these problems with the air flow that's in this case...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...9&cm_re=hd_4770_radeon-_-14-150-369-_-Product

a few pics of my AMD Rig out of commission Dead at the moment!
and LG Burns flawless for me I got the best model# in that brand..lol



ScythE Model# SY1225SL12M Doin the Pulling out the back



Stock fan flipped around doin the Pushing on the radiator



Look no Gigabyte shields on the NB HS or the MOS HS so the heat can escape better a Russ Ideal and pretty good facted!




tell you what. I came home yesterday after work and turn my central air on for the first time this year and the Temps on the UD3P/Q9550 System is Sweet. I turned the Rpm's down on the ATI HD 5770 from 50% to 30% fan speed.I set my central air at 69 degrees b4. I went to bed but changed it 73 degrees this morning believe me it was cold in here last night and still alittle cold now...LOL the cpu got low as 24c. I felted Cold air coming out the Top of my centurion 590 with AeroCool Streamliner just doin there thing...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=case_fans_140mm-_-35-129-248-_-Product
And my Cpu Cooler is turning 563rpm's on auto and holding it's own on the Q9550 with the push & Pull theory Hyper TX3 can't complain about the little cooler needed room for my side panel 140mm fans anyway... here's my temps to prove also at a 39% Oc at 3935Ghz for the longest time. I just wish. I could get the AMD Rig to run the same



the Old push,pull on the UD3P (rev. 1.6) FB bio



Lord know's how much Money. I have spent on Parts and Computers stuff,Man


O Yea b4 and after Pics of the ATI HD 4770 after market cooler

before




after





http://www.arctic-cooling.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2_&mID=256

 

http://www.overclockers.com/line-dfi-lanparty/

This makes me sad

 

Yeah, I read that a week or so ago. This plus the BFG graphics exit, bit of an industry shakeup at the moment!

 

Makes me sad. Same thing happened to Abit not long ago. Jetway seem to be still making stuff but the only good Jetway boards are exclusively available in Asia.

 

Perhaps some of their crew will continue under a new name. Which could produce even better boards. Here's to hoping for good things LOL!

 

Generally you turn off fan control for all of your case fans and leave the CPU fan on auto. The RC690 is a lower noise case so you can leave the fans cranked. The CPU cooler is much more likely to make noise.

 

There was a hum while it was running but I didn't delve deeply into the diabolical decibel dispenser. Perhaps when I actually get it up and running and tackle this overclocking deal I will look into quieting the rabble rouser