The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

Oman7,
That's why I work using my bed as a workbench for installing things like the ECO, or assembling builds. It's low enough to be able to do most things sitting down, and nothing get's scratched. The only thing is sometimes you lose the perspective. I put the ECO on with the radiator hoses to the side, and had to rotate it 90 degrees! LOL!! In spite of that little Boo-Boo and switching the fans, it still took me less than 15 minutes to install. I wound up choosing the bottom for the hoses on the radiator, figuring that the liquid would always be at the bottom of the tank and should be cooler, since heat rises. I left the Pump/Heatsink for last with the plastic protective cover on, so as not to mess up the thermal paste, which is excellent, BTW! There's no noticeable difference between it and the MX-2 in the temperatures.

Russ

 

LOL! I've used my bed several times. Though I would prefer a workbench Lets just say my current situation is discouraging. I feel stuck between a rock and a hard place.

The damn A.C. quit working today. I was pushing 48C idle today. As you can see, it's working perfectly now LOL(To the sum of 115$)! Actually, its rather frigid in here now :S

 

Nice temps Omega. Very impressive My own video cards idle at 50-58*C. The lower one being consistently 3-4*C cooler.

My CPU idles at maybe 35-ish and loads at ~55*C. I'd be interested to see your current load temps in SpeedFan.

BTW I have found an even better temp monitor than SpeedFan. It's called Hardware Monitor and is made by the guys behind CPU-Z. Lists minimums, maximums, and current temps all on one screen and shows everything else that SpeedFan does with better responsiveness and easier navigation.

 

Hardware Monitor's still going? I used to use that back in the days when I had my Athlon XP, didn't think it had been updated since. Perhaps it's the same name used for a different application.

 

It was idling at 37, and here is the load temps after 6+ minutes of prime95. The temperature MAY have risen another 1 - 2C, but I really don't think so. This room is really cool right now, and the Tuniq is removing the heat pretty nicely.

If the Coolit can shave off even 3C, I'll be one happy camper xD

Jeff, I'm checking out Visual studio 2010. But I'm really tired tonight. Brain feels like pudding LOL! Be checking it out for sure in the morning

Interesting, I think I like the look of CPUID Hardware Monitor even more!

 

Installed CPUID Hardware Monitor. Problem with it is, like all sensor programs these days, it doesn't fully support the sensor used in my board, even though Gigabyte X48 boards are hardly rare.

No program (not even everest) can tell me the 12V rail from my PSU, CPUID has also missed the CPU fan speed, raw CPU temp [not just the cores], any of the non-core temps of the GPUs, and can't read the temperature of the OCZ SSD [not sure if they have a sensor or not, I would have thought they would]

 

Estuansis,
There really is no better or even best temp momitor, for that matter. There is only what works best for your particular setup. While many sensor types are common, the chipsets see them all differently, and report them differently. Everest 4.60 would read my temps and voltages correctly, but didn't display them in the right places. The MB and CPU temps were reversed, the red was the MB temp and the green, the CPU temp. Everest 5.30 reads them at the same temps, but displays them properly, where red is the CPU temp, green the MB! Most importantly, the readings agree with what is reported with easyTune, that came with the motherboard. Core temps can vary from as little as 2C to about 6C higher than the CPU temp. As long as the CPU remains lower than the Core temps with the ECO, your CPU cooler is doing it's job. I don't even display the Core temps, because they really don't have any meaning at all, or bearing on the function of the computer. It will all reflect in the CPU temp, if there is a problem. Since there is no lingering heat being blown around the case, as when using an air cooler, the reaction time to the CPU heat is much faster, with little or no residual heat remaining inside the case.

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Omega---if you use your bed, you have to clean it up in a reasonable amount of time. It's harder to keep a workbench/mancave clean
sorry about cheap cell phone pic...

 

A real workbench (or even a table) would be so nice, but for now the bed will have to suffice lol.

This isn't the proper thread for this but maybe you guy's will know what I need. Is there a way to convert stereo rca audio to optical or digital coax? I want to hook my 360 up to my sound system which only has optical and digital coax input.

btw I'm finally making some real progress on my wc loop so all my posts (including this one) will most likely be from my phone for the 1-2 weeks.

TIA,

redmaw

 

Nice mancave Deadrum

I'm sure there is Red_Maw. Every adapter I've ever looked for has existed

 

RCA audio is analog. Optical is digital, so you need an A converter, such as a surround receiver.

 

Thanks sam; using the right keywords helped a lot.

 

Right I have a higher end 200W receiver that can use digital coax and optical, and can also output a digital or optical signal to analog RCA or direct wire(stereo cables in clamps). That IMO would be the best solution. Currently though I have a multi system selector box with everything plugged in for either RCA or optical then running to the receiver. Makes everything pretty simple to use. Just hit a switch and I have my consoles in RCA, my CD changer in optical, and my DVD player in optical as well. Hassle-free switching

Currently in the process of making my own extended length stereo jack cable to run my sound card through my Hi-Fi. Thank you Radioshack for the gold plated jacks

 

Jeff, you lucky SOB! Radioshack closed shop in this area. Apparently not enough business. Radioshack once upon a time used to be my first stop for anything electronic. Though newegg will suffice most the time now

 

My old receiver cant use the optical outputs on my sound card. The sound card's other output (RCA jacks) go to my studio monitors so I had to use a piggyback cable to send a signal to my reciever as well as the monitors.

You cant see it in the bad pic i posted before but behind me are 3' floor speakers with 16" woofers to set off the crisp and clear monitors in front. It works well for music production and editing, having high to mid range in front and mid to low range in back.

 

Lol, and I thought a 10" subwoofer was overkill
Mind you, I'm not in music production really, I just mess around in FL studio, I'm not very good

 

Sam,
He could always go for the supreme overkill and get a pair of Klipschorns! Only about $8000 for the pair! Oh, and you need a little room!

From the Klipsch website:
DIMENSIONS:
52" (132.1cm) x 31.25" (79.4cm) x 28.5" (72.4cm)
WEIGHT:
167 lbs. (75.8kg)

Russ

 

For many situations it is but you just cant duplicate 1000watts being pumped through a speaker wedge like I encounter during live shows using 20watt 10" woofers. I've been adding much low end sound into the mix lately and 10's always punch well, but those bigger ones really seem to rumble at that frequency you feel in your stomach.

 

If you've got a room suitable for the acoustics. Even my speakers sound naff in my small bedroom compared to when setup in the larger living room that has better acoustics.

 

Agreed, this correlates to the fact a properly constructed and ported speaker box can make a shoddy speaker sound great while a poor enclosure can make a great speaker sound like craaaaaaaaaaap.
I can't turn things up too loudly, being in the same general area as a basement furnace, my home's ductwork easily sends noise 2 floors up to the bedrooms.