The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

Deadrum33,
Just a though as I don't know what motherboard you are using, but many that have on board sound have an SPDIF Out right on the motherboard. That would give you a Coax Digital output. Give a look-see in your motherboard manual. You can usually get the RCA plug with the plug for the motherboard that mounts in an empty case expansion port pretty cheap. Like I said, just a thought.

Best Regards,
Russ

 

He's got optical, but his receiver can't use it, which is presumably why he's using RCA.

 

Sam,
I was under the impression that his sound card had RCA plugs, but I just went back and looked, and you are right. The RCA plugs on the sound card was what threw me. I can't remember ever seeing that on a computer. All I've ever seen is the 1/8" mini plugs, but his cables are RCA for sure, on both ends.

Russ

 

Coax S/PDIF plugs look the same as RCA plugs, so that's probably what you're seeing.

 

Yes, receiver only has RCA in/outputs no SPDIF or HDMI.
Heres what a card with no 1/8" jacks looks like
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829121120&Tpk=audiophile 2496 and near field monitors to accompany.
http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/MS20.aspx

 

Out of curiosity do you use the MIDI input on that card? If you do, what's the latency like?

 

That was my ideal solution too, but finding a good receiver for ~50US (all I can afford to spend right now) is probably impossible

 

I bought the card specifically for midi interface supposedly superior to a USB BUS-powered interface. That being said, I have a Yamaha drum brain sitting here waiting to put it to use that hasn't left its box. I haven't had time to properly test it so I can't answer the question...YET
I can tell you from experience that playing edrums through a USB BUS-powered interface, you are required to play ahead of the beat just a bit, due to latency. My band at one time used a sampler/MIDI controller to drive edrums but that whole setup was a nightmare to take out to live shows.
Time to go watch USA vs Ghana WC foosball! Our coach changed a few starters for this round, lets see how that works.

 

Yeah, I'm thinking from two perspectives - input latency, and sound output latency. In order to prevent buffer under-runs in audio production (sound pop, stutter etc.) you need to increase the buffer length, typically to about 60-70ms with onboard audio. I'm looking for something that will reduce that, in addition to having minimal interface latency.

 

Deadrum33,
Very nice! It's amazing what a well designed 10" Woofer can do. In fact it's amazing what a well designed surround system can do. This is what I have.
http://reviews.cnet.com/av-receivers/sony-str-k660p-av/1707-6466_7-31222306.html

I have two Wurlitzer virtual Theater Organs installed in my computer, a two manual model 216 and a three manual 260 and it can really shake the walls if I choose to. Let me put it this way, that "feel it in the pit of your Stomach" feeling you mentioned is very real! LOL!! You wouldn't want to be messing around with 16' and 32' Bass pipes on an empty stomach! LOL!! The power you command, playing the real thing is awesome. No other instrument comes close to it in Dynamic Range! Sounds awesome played through the Realtek ALC889A High Definition Audio, on my GigaByte motherboard.

Best Regards,
Russ

 

This is my receiver. Works quite nicely. Especially considering I just realized the fan in back has quit. No wonder the top could cook an egg! LOL!

Russ, I'm about to install the Eco. Is there anything about the backplate I should know? I guess I'll find out on my own soon enough, but your opinions would be appreciated

 

Wow nice unit Omega. Get a new fan rigged in there

Russ, if the Realtek on your motherboard impresses you, a mid range sound card would blow your mind.

 

Thanks jeff. GM thought it was silly. Not so much the receiver, but the speakers I'm using LOL! It IS silly. I'll post a shot of them later. The important thing is, they work a lot better than people realize. The speakers I'm using, if they were still in their original box, had the potential to sound like decent 8" Midrange speakers. When I hook up my sub under my desk...Oh baby! You'd be surprised what it can sound like

Just dusted my Haf932. I always forget how heavy it is LOL! 4 HDD's, 6 optical drives, etc. I believe it weighed in at 50-55 pounds once upon a time. I'll weigh it again later for my benefit at least. The poor tuniq had a lot of dust built up. Probably improved my temps. But I'll probably never know. The coolit will be installed within the hour

 

Oman7,
Your Mission, should You choose to accept it! LOL!! Nah, it's easy!
Pretty simple really. I just pulled the 4 screws that hold the plastic stock mount, and screwed the pump to it! I didn't do that until after I swapped the fans, and mounted the radiator, BTW! I didn't know if the stock backplate would move, but mine didn't. I didn't figure it could go any further than the tray anyway. I got one corner started, then went cross corner a couple of turns and did the same with the other! I did lay it on it's side so I didn't hear "Clank"! LOL!! Do the pump last, and leave the protective plastic on until you are ready to screw down the Pump/Heatsink. Couldn't have been easier!

Russ

 

So in yours and Will's opinion, I should use the Scythe for a pull fan, meaning that I need to have the stock coolit fan closest to the cpu? Which means that I need to move it from its stock position...

 

That is correct! Just remove the stock fan and replace it with the scythe, with the open end of the fan towards the radiator, and the frame side toward the back of the case. Install the stock fan with the open end facing the front of the case, with the fram end flush with the radiator. You will only really need two screws for the front fan, but you will need all 4 screws for the rear, since they are all that holds the rear fan to the radiator. The ones that hold it all to the case are just standard fan mounting screws.

Russ

 

Thanks for the confirmation Russ. Much appreciated. Other than a slight scare, everything seems to be in working order so far. The scare was when switching the PSU back on. Blew the Power strips fuse. Scared me. Shut off everything! But, all seems good so far xD I'm gonna watch a movie, have something to eat, while it acclimates a bit more

 

Estuansis,
I've been an Audiophile since before the days of Stereo, and even I'm impressed with the sound quality of the Realtek 889A. The Theater organ creates a number of challenges for any sound system, because of the enormous Dynamic Range, yet there isn't a pipe I can't hear, from the tiniest 1.75" one to pipes 32' tall. BTW, the distortion figures are wrong for the Sony. It's a misprint, as per Sony, because I questioned it when I got it. It's 0.7%, not 10%! LOL!! Big difference. 420w/70w per channel get's it done! The speakers are all wood enclosures, without any squeaks or rattles. The tuned port 10" Woofer is in the front L corner of the room.

I'll tell you a funny about the sound quality. I heard what sounded like a loose board rattling one night while playing back some recordings. I tore my room apart looking for it, but couldn't find it, so I finally started moving the front speakers around to see if it went away. That's when I noticed that the rattle moved with the RF speaker, so I switched the center and right speakers and it was still there, in the same place. It turned out to be on the recording itself. Now that's realism! LOL!! Not really surprising really when you consider that most of these old theaters are around 80 years old. I've always had extraordinary hearing, at least that's what they've been telling me for years. You have no reference point for something like that, as it's just what you hear. I know that Proximity Sensors for alarm systems drive me crazy, while no one else around me can hear it! I've given up even mentioning it because people look at you funny when you do!

The Sony system that I have is about 6-7 years old, model wise, and not as complex as the newer systems. It only has Analog, Coaxial, and Optical inputs and speaker outputs, so it's not really suitable for a modern HDMI system. Still, it has remarkable sound quality for my purposes. No clicks pops or static at all. The previous motherboard, which I sent back because it had a problem with the SouthBridge and my Sata ports, had a lesser Realtek HD sound chip, and the difference is very noticeable. This one has a Signal to Noise ratio of 106dB, and so far has worked flawlessly for over a year now, so I'll stick with it.

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Oman7,
Looks good, but I would highly recommend you run the pump direct from the PSU. It would be the safest way to do it. I moved mine to the PSU because I got to thinking about it, and didn't want to have a little mental lapse and accidentally connect it to the wrong MB header and burn out the pump. Always better to be safe, than sorry! LOL!!

Best Regards,
Russ

 

Believe me, I'd rather run it directly to the PSU, but I don't have an adapter. I have 3 pin to molex, but not 4 pin to molex