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The Official PC building thread -3rd Edition

Discussion in 'Building a new PC' started by ddp, Jul 16, 2008.

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  1. theonejrs

    theonejrs Senior member

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    Oman7,
    Glad you got it. It's truly amazing just how quiet and smooth that fan is, when you pull it off of the stock heatsink, and give the airflow room to expand. Hopefully it will work for you just as good as it does for me.

    Beat Regards,
    Russ
     
  2. theonejrs

    theonejrs Senior member

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    Well shut my mouth! I mentioned the other day that the Foxconn M61MPV 6100/N Force 430 motherboard would probably be the last run for the venerable nVidia 430 chipset, but looky here!
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138180

    It seems that BioStar is continuing the 430 yet again, with a socket AM3 6150/430/DDR3 motherboard. What do you get for your $50? Quite a lot, actually! 4 Sata 3.0GB/s ports, support for up to 8GB of DDR3 800/1066/1333 memory, support for 95w CPUs and a three year parts and two years labor warranty! Amazing!

    Russ
     
  3. omegaman7

    omegaman7 Senior member

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    Looks like an agreeable board for the price! If I were building peoples PC's, I'd strongly consider that little gem ;)

    I ended up working on something else last night, and didn't get to the fan modification. I'll be working on that shortly :D

    Fan's in, no change. I think that my next step will be removing the blue shield, and thermal tape. Since Russ says it runs better that way. Perhaps that's the majority of the temperature change eh?
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2010
  4. theonejrs

    theonejrs Senior member

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    Oman7,
    How hot is that NB heatsink to the touch? Mine was uncomfortably hot to the touch! You do have the open side of the fan blade pointing at the pump, with the frame side towards the video card, right? Maybe the MB has a bad temperature sensor, because it should have gone down some, given the breeze that fan makes, and my video card was still in the bottom slot. When I moved it back to the 16x slot, the temps were 34-36C. Maybe the removing blue shield will help. I took mine off before I installed the fan, so I don't know what it will do with it in place.

    Russ
     
  5. omegaman7

    omegaman7 Senior member

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    Yes, the fan is in the right direction. I learned my lesson when installing the Arctic freezer LOL! It seems to average 37-39C on the NB/Mobo temp. I didn't touch it when I was in there, but I did feel warmth. The temperature WILL rise though, if I stress the system. Apparently this is the least of my worries though. My friggin Internet connection has been erratic for over a week now. I've power cycled my modem countless times, adjusted its power converter, dsl line, etc. It's become my belief that Qwest(my ISP), is screwing around on their end. I was watching a net meter last night, and the intermittent connections, appear to be at regular intervals. Interesting, eh? LOL!
     
  6. Red_Maw

    Red_Maw Regular member

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    37-39C is cold :p Even after installing a fan to blow across the NB it looks like my temps will be high 40's to low 50's (~15C drop).
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2010
  7. omegaman7

    omegaman7 Senior member

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    yah, I'm not gonna worry about my NB temps. At least not this week. I'm gonna remove the thermal tape and blue cover this weekend, and see how that effects the temps.

    Oh, and actually, I can hear the little 70mm fan. Ever so slightly LOL! Its like a kind of whining. But If I'm not thinking about it, no big deal ;)
     
  8. theonejrs

    theonejrs Senior member

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    Oman7,
    True you can hear it, but you have to listen hard to do it, and it's only because of the 3200 rpm frequency it makes that you even notice it. It would never attract your attention, though!

    Try a little experiment the next time you fool around inside the case. Take a piece of shirt cardboard (Not Corrugated), and stick it behind the video card in front of the fanfold tthe cardboard at thr height of the top of the van, and hold in place with a little duct tape. That should firmly get air moving over the NB heatsink, and diret some towards the VRM cooler.

    Russ
     
  9. sammorris

    sammorris Senior member

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    In my experience it's not the airflow that's usually lacking in VRM cooling, it's the hratsink size itself. I sometimes wish card manufacturers would pay more attention to this!
     
  10. theonejrs

    theonejrs Senior member

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    Sam,
    That's true in many cases, but the VRM heatsink is pretty substantial on Oman7's and my motherboard. Plus it's joined to the Northbridge heatsink by a single heatpipe. I'm going to order a couple of those Antec 40mm fans I like so much, and screw them right to the VRM heatsink.
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835129036
    Doing that should lower my motherboard temps to about 30-32C, and that should do the trick!

    It's not the overclock settings either. From Stock to 3.8GHz, the temps only go up about 1C across the board. That is in spite of increasing the NB voltage to 1.30v, the CPU NB VID to 1.40v. I haven't been able to approach the heat wall with of CPU yet, and it's the most limiting factor in overclocking a Phenom IIx4. Once you hit that heat wall, nothing will allow you to go any higher, without spending a lot of money on Custom water cooling. The problem wasn't there with the Freezer 64 at the same settings, so I know that it has to be airflow. I just failed to take into account the loss of the Freezer 64's airflow to the NB and VRM heatsinks. I've solved the cooling problem with the Video card being in the 16x slot with the 70mm fan, so If I can get some air moving through the VRM's heatsink, it should be good!

    Best Regards,
    Russ
     
  11. omegaman7

    omegaman7 Senior member

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    Hey creaky, I've noticed on such threads like "Desktop pics" that you run some kind of net meter. I'm curious what that is. I've been having serious internet connection issues, and want to monitor more closely what's going on. I believe my ISP to be fiddling around on their end, and want to record what's going on. Because in october, they want to raise my bill. And if they can't even maintain my connection, I'd like some points on my side, if you get me ;)
    A certain downloading application allows me to monitor bandwidth speeds in a graph like GUI, but I wanted something that's designed with JUST that in mind. Any thoughts whatsoever on this is much appreciated :)
     
  12. creaky

    creaky Moderator Staff Member

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    It's called Netmeter, see here. Not sure how much this will help your particular predicament though.

    The only time i've experienced erratic speeds are when i lived afloat ie the phone line was always being damaged (many, many different & separate problems over a 3 year period), and the other was when being throttled for Bittorrent traffic by a certain cable provider. Other than those i've always (consistently) had the speeds i was supposed to be having. The throttling was easy to fix, i dumped the crappy cable provider, problem solved :).

    I think what you want to be doing is regularly checking your modem's admin pages to check what your actual connection speed is at that time, then check at other times to make sure it's fairly consistent. There's sites like speedtest.net and pingtest.net, etc, but in your case you should start with seeing what the modem is reporting.
    We've just had a new broadband line installed in one of our branches, and i was tasked with sourcing a modem and configuring/testing it. I used one of my own trusty modems that i'd used in anger (to within an inch iof it's life in fact, it had been subjected to flat-out torrent traffic for over a year!). Anyways, we had been promised a 20+Meg line and my limited testing showed it to be a 6/7Meg connection, and the download speeds on the line didn't even meet 6/7Meg, only something like 3ish Meg, and very erratic results at that. Just to have a stick to beat them with, we caved in and bought a (fairly expensive) new modem that they recommended, and surprise surprise it made zero difference. We've been shouting at the provider and the problem is ongoing while they play silly beggars. Anyways, broadband is great when it works but when it doesn't it is one of the most frustrating problems to deal with/resolve.
    I'm sure some of the other guys have better advice to give re how to proceed but i'd start with regular monitoring of the modem's reported connection stats.
     
  13. omegaman7

    omegaman7 Senior member

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    I generally check this page first, by typing 192.168.0.1 in the address bar.
    [​IMG]
    In the past 2 weeks, I've seen connections of 0 - 5120 download, and 0 - 896Kbps upload. Since it came on rather sudden like, I assumed they were screwing around. Then I thought maybe I have something quitting on me, e.g modem. But then it will be fine for hours. It's been fine for 36 hrs, but a few minutes ago, it began screwing up again. I don't believe they're throttling me just yet. It's too erratic to believe that. What happens is, the Internet light will shut off, and the DSL light will begin flashing. Once, I even seen the modem reset itself. My guess is, they sent a signal instructing it to do so. Another example of my believing they are screwing around. Which is quite unfortunate. I rely heavily on my internet connection.
    For almost 24hrs, it appeared my upload ceiling was capped at 70Kbps, where It should be getting 896Kbps. Hardly worth noting, but believe it or not, I notice little differences in my connection speeds.
    Thanks for your recommendation. I'll look into net meter :D

    Another thing worth noting is, I've seen the modem foul up when both PC's aren't even running. So it's definitely nothing to do with throttling...
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2010
  14. creaky

    creaky Moderator Staff Member

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    A-ha, this is the behaviour i had on the river. In my case it was always due to the phone line being faulty. The modem loses connection and the flashing light is known as hunting, or trailing which i think is the correct term. Routers are supposed to be left up and running all the time, and your dropouts will be the reason for your erratic connection speeds. If you have, say an 8Meg connection, and you either turn the router off all the time, or there's a fault of some kind and the modem resets all the time, you won't end with an 8Meg connection. I don't know the technical reasons for this, suffice it to say that it's something to do with the fact that the router's not left online. Someone else can no doubt explain that much better than i can, i know what i mean i just can't describe it properly.

    You just need to find out why the modem is losing connection (maybe the modem is resetting itself, but obviously you should be able to check this in the modem's admin pages, maybe there's an uptime figure of some sort in there, and maybe a separate one to show how long the connection itself has been up). To make you feel better, i have 4 routers on permanently, the main one has an uptime of 251 days, and that's only because i would have tweaked a setting 251 days ago. Don't know how long the main modem router has been up as it's in bridged mode (can't access it's setup menu in bridged mode) but the other 3 routers have been up 251 days apiece.

    Yeah, that's routers for you, they keep running, independantly of whether any machines are connected or not (sorry if up already know that).
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2010
  15. omegaman7

    omegaman7 Senior member

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    I wonder if my recent electrical problems, caused the modem to go loopy...

    I wonder if there's some way to self diagnose the Modem? Because now that I think about it, the problems started shortly after I had serious electric issues, which turned out being a bad receptacle on the Circuit. In another room, but on the same circuit.
     
  16. Estuansis

    Estuansis Active member

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    I had much the same issue with a burnt out outlet in the wall. Apparently a whole circuit was wired through it including my entire room. And as you probably realize my room is a large energy consumer XD

    The main issues were my PC not turning on at times and not rebooting properly(would just shut off when I hit reboot or saved changes in the BIOS). After rerouting the circuit and replacing the wall outlet, my problems completely disappeared :p
     
  17. cincyrob

    cincyrob Active member

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  18. sammorris

    sammorris Senior member

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    Not really sure to be honest. They fit on LGA1156, but if they're 32nm I don't understand why they have a 95W TDP still. Presumably it's 95W like the lower-end Yorkfields, so actually 80W. Given the almost identical price and marginal increase in clock speed, it's probably a replacement for the 750 rather than an additional product in the lineup, like with the 930 vs 920.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2010
  19. theonejrs

    theonejrs Senior member

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    Rob,
    It's Socket LGA 1156.

    Best Regards,
    Russ
     
  20. cincyrob

    cincyrob Active member

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    and if you look at it, it doesnt have a set name, like lynnfield,yorkfield,wolfdale, ect.....
     
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