Did you disable ULPS and are you using the OC programs as you test it? Double check that everything is proper for the card. It sounds to me like it's defaulting to lower clocks for some reason or that it isn't going into 3D mode properly. Remember to DISABLE ULPS. It interferes with you clocks if you use an OC program. This is also something I ran into with Afterburner running. Also try running the card without any OC related software running at all. No Afterburner, no Trixx. Make sure you set the clocks to default before closing the program you use for clock control.
No regrets with my Vertex 4 256Gb model. Currently using 55Gb, but I plan to install a few more things No slow downs, and zero bugs. The only bug I seem to be dealing with lately, is firefox and adobe flash. I'm curious if the bug is affecting everyone? I must admit, Youtube rarely gave me any trouble, but I find most of the bugs to occur on facebook flash based games. Perhaps the bugs reside in the games themselves Whatever it is that happens though, seems to lockup firefox, and I have to kill the process. Can't wait for HTML 5!
if you build a custom gaming rig, and use it to play facebook flash games, you deserve the lockups. your machine is trying to save you from yourself...lol
LOL!!! I suppose I deserve that I like options. I buy powerful stuff, so I have it when I need it. Amazing how quickly it becomes outdated though
Mobile computer, I'd recommend a Samsung 830. For a desktop, I'd recommend a Vertex 4. I wasn't suggesting that you get the Intel drives. I was merely stating that of the SandForce drives, Intel's are by far the most reliable. However, non-SandForce drives tend to be reliable almost by default (although there are a few exceptions, such as the OCZ Octane) and both the Vertex 4 and the Samsung 830 are similarly reliable. My Vertex 4 128GB is easily the best SSD that I've ever used IMO and OCZ just keeps releasing better and better firmware that continually increases my Vertex 4's performance, granted they are annoying destructive firmware updates. However, I regularly back my storage drives, so it's no big deal for me to restore the SSD after a firmware update.
i've owned vertex1-3 havent moved up to 4 yet and i thought they were trying to do away with the destructive flashes. i havent checked for updates or flashed my current one lately but i thought it was a goal. or perhaps it was updating the flash process because in the beginning you had to create a dos-booting usb and flash using dos commands and i think now isnt it easier than that? it's been a while so i could be confused.
It's easier to update the firmware than that, but the firmware updates for the Vertex 4 still kills any data that is on the drive.
Hmm it seems after a BIOS update my CPU has lost its ability to hold 3.8GHz. No matter what settings or voltage I try, it just can't seem to get past about 10 minutes of Prime 95 Small FFTs. Reverted from F5 BIOS back to the previous F2 BIOS, no dice. Originally tried the update to see if I could push my OC. Now I am wondering if my CPU simply degraded a bit and lost stability on its own or if it's a problem with the board like an improper setting or something. Have been through every part of the BIOS with a fine-tooth comb. Only caveat to everything is, I hadn't run Prime 95 in a long time, since the last time I re-OC'd. So there's plenty of time in between for the chip to have lost a bit of stability. CPUs degrading is not new to me, but I haven't held it at a particularly strenuous OC or a very high voltage. Just .025 above stock. The smallest increment possible. I've only run it OC'd for about a year and a half, so it hasn't been running very long either... Haven't seen an OC degrade this fast before so am wondering if it could be something else. BTW Currently at 3.6GHz running Small FFTs and running about 57 on the CPU and about 60 on the cores. Runs exactly the same at 3.8 because of identical voltage. Runs around 53 on the CPU and 57 on the cores at stock settings. Never goes above 50 while gaming. EDIT: A much more conservative application of some Arctic Cooling MX-1 has dropped idle and load a few degrees. Is also a longer-term cure ie about 200 hours, so hopefully will see even better temps shortly. Maybe 1-2*C on average. It used to run all night torture tests at 3.8GHz without batting an eye and could take several hours of IBT maximum stress with no issue. BTW I do understand about the heat limit for AMD CPUs, but I am basically at or below that for the most part. 62*C at the cores is max acceptable for 24/7. It has never hit 62.
The upgrade changed how the timings are handled for the MB so I would blame the firmware upgrade nothing else, it's the only thing that has changed. I've had this happen to me as of late and have reverted back to old firmware levels to get back to better performance or to fix bugs entered in by upgrading. I use to keep my firmware levels up to date but I've found that isn't always smart with the injection of new bugs in minimally tested upgrades these days so if isn't broke I don't fix it, which is always a good methodology. I have what is considered problematic SSD's if you read some of the less than knowledgeable blogs out there and mine run just fine, strong and fast. A bad review/report doesn't always mean a bad piece of gear these days, especially from NewEgg EXPERTS. @Kevin, I've had problems with both Adobe & Firefox so I don't use FF anymore, instead I use Chrome, but still use Adobe unfortunately. I use to love FF but sad to say it isn't worth the bother with better alternatives. Flash regardless of who it is from is a potential nightmare.
I think it's a Samsung 830 actually. I'm probably just suffering from Samsung fever, but if you notice the orange sticker bottom right.. You'll have to report back! Yeah, OCZ Octane is the older line I was thinking of that I'd read bad things about, and also the Petrol series is apparently not great. I'm glad that you agree with the Samsung 830 for mobile; I think I would agree with you that I wouldn't necessarily settle so quickly if I was buying for a desktop. https://www.google.com/intl/en/chrome/browser/ Sorry to crash the OC discussion.
Some of it is a stock/warehouse care issue too. You will read a plethora of reviews on newegg stating how often WD Green hard disks go wrong, by reading the reviews you'd come to the conclusion that about 1 in 4 to 1 in 5 drives would likely be DOA or fail within weeks. So far, I've had what I believe is now 31 WD Green drives, and have yet to see one fail...
Well that's all well and good and good and well, but... I've since reverted back to my original BIOS and the issue still persists... so you can see my dilemma. I've had nothing but heat problems since moving to the Cool-It and Phenom IIs are very heat sensitive so... Would be interested to get something like a Cooler Master Hyper 212 and see what it does for temps. Many users are reporting much lower temps with high OCs than I get stock... Regardless the Cool-It has very severely disappointed me. I would still hang onto it and try it on another chip though as I don't think my temps are proper at all.
Pretty basic though, you should have far better temperatures with a Cool-IT water-based unit than a Hyper212. The Hyper212 isn't even a top-tier air cooler. There's a fairly substantial overvolt on my i5 750 meaning its full load TDP is in the 200W region, and just on a TRUE with a relatively slow 120mm fan (that is almost silent unless it's at 100%) I rarely see CPU temps much above about 60C unless I'm actually running a burn test.
No, I know that, but it was just a general comment; I should've clarified that 'for what it is' I wouldn't knock the 212.
I replaced my Cool-It, which died, with the Hyper 212, that I had sitting around. However, my idle temps went up by 4 degrees to 42C.
Well as it currently stands my CPU doesn't idle worth a crap anyway, so I'm not particularly fussed about it. I switched from a Tuniq Tower that wasn't quite getting the job done and the Cool-It showed basically no improvement. In contrast I would like to try an air cooler again and see if it's my chip that's running hot, or the Cool-It really not working properly. The chip ran hot with the Tuniq as well so I'm wary. It's not my TIM application either as I've applied and re-applied about a dozen or so times with no true benefit. Other CPUs I have used an am currently using run much cooler on theoretically weaker coolers. Worth noting is that the corners of my chip are high spots, but I'm too much of a sissy to lap my CPU
Do many people (here or generally) actually lap their CPUs? It strikes me as either something you've done a fair few times are are comfortable with doing, or you just don't (for fear of fubar'ing it).
I don't think CPU lapping is very common but lapping coolers is easy and much safer to do. I have lapped a fair few CPUs and coolers in my time, but not a CPU this expensive. My last lapping project was my 2 Tuniq Tower 120s that both had a warped base where the heatpipes were soldered on. Got some very nice gains from it on both coolers. Too bad I've since sold my spare Tuniq. I would be interested to try it again. The Cool-It I'm not entirely sure about. I have yet to do the razor blade test with it, but it seems to me that it's the CPU causing the problem. Hot temps and now losing my OC stability. Seems pretty conclusive to me. Some who have been in my room have suggested my high ambient temps are to blame, but I've had many other CPUs that idled in the high 20s and low 30s on significant OCs. I have also seen and known people who idle in the high 20s and load in the high 40s with a similar CPU at a similar OC with the same cooler. My Q6600 at 3.7GHz with a fair overvolt is still running strong. Idles at about 30-33C and load in the low 50s. On air in a smaller case with way less cooling and usually stuffed in a cupboard. My current idle with the 955 and the Cool-It is around 40 and loads touch 60 frequently. On water, in a HAF932, on my desk. Loads are one thing but you'd expect idles to be fairly similar with decent coolers, limited by room temp and all. Have been experimenting with airflow but this is a HAF932, and doesn't need much modification. My wiring is flawless BTW. Nothing in the way of flow. The rest of the system runs very nicely as well. Very reasonable except the CPU. I guess I really want to find a replacement CPU vs parting out the rig and upgrading to Intel. The AM3 platform has gobs of life left that I haven't even touched yet... If only there were more available 1090Ts...
I suppose I have little choice, but to try Google Chrome. I've bought multiple WD Green drives as well. So far, so good I believe the SMART statistics may be getting a bit rough on one of the drives though. I'll have to check that later today. Indeed Jeff! I want a 1090/1100t myself!