The Official PC building thread - 4th Edition

Steve,

I'm not arguing with you, I'm just telling you what Tech Service at Gigabyte told me on the phone. There are 4 different revisions of that board, and you could very well be right about the one you have. 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, and 3.0. The latest revision is 3.0. It's very interesting because on my P35-DS3R the colors were split 1 and 3 were Red, and 2 and 4 were yellow. There were a lot of jokes about the "Leggo Look"! LOL!! She told me to just go by the colors, so if yours are split, it's probably what she meant. Only Rev 2.0 has the colors together. Her exact words were to put the two sticks in the same color slots! The one they show on Newegg has slots 1 and 2 being Blue and slots 3 and 4 being white.

Russ

 

Russ,

My sockets are blue (bank 1) & white (bank 2), can I get black & yellow instead? Bubble bee comes to mind. LOL My guess would still be that you would use bank 2, slots 3 & 4 on your board as it tracks the memory better there as mine does and is required to overclock your memory, according to the manual. I am surprised that Gigabyte has so many revisions for this board but more so that they all have different firmware levels. Mine is at F7 but rev 3.0 is at FF I didn't check firmware for 2.0 or prior.

Stevo

 

Steve,

I'm pretty sure that's what she meant by following the colors. If the Whites are 3 & 4, you put the memory in slots 3 & 4. If they are 2 & 4, put the memory in them. Same for the blue, just put the pair in the same color slots for Dual Channel! I think the revisions came about because of them discontinuing the DDR2 AM2-AM2+-AM3 motherboards and replacing them with Socket AM3 ones.

Russ

 

That would make sense and would be why the slots possibly changed like they did. I've seen rev changes before but nothing like this however as you said going from AM2-3 & DDR2 to DDR3 would be significant.

 

Wow, talk about I'm so confused lol, I'll post a pick of the MB when it comes in, I'm sure we'll get it right, not worried.

 

Fred,

Like the lady from Gigabyte told me just follow the colors. Put them in the two white slots regardless of whether they are together or split. Call me on Yahoo!

Russ

 

ok heres the latest.lol i got a java trojan virus te other day, wouldnt let me use the internet, no browser could i use to get online. since i have gotten it off the HDD so i think but now when it boots up it gets to post and will get to verifying dmz pool or what ever it says and wont go any farther? am i missing something here. when used as a secondary drive it is fine you can see everything on the drive get into files,use programs ect. please tell me im missing something or doing something wrong. i so hate formating again, but i guess if i have to give the the reason/excuse to go with 64 bit instead of 32..lol good thing i kept this hdd with good ole trusted XP on it.

 

Rob,

Did you by any chance plug a Flash Drive into a USB port before it happened, and leave it in? I had that happen to me one time on Oxi, and when I removed the Flash Drive, the computer booted right up. I think it may have been the software that XP installed when I plugged the Memorex Travel Drive into the USB. It's the only flash Drive I have that is bootable, so I'm assuming it is looking for something on the drive to boot from. The other 3 Flash Drives I own can be plugged in all of the time and it boots fine.

Russ

 

no nothing was plugged in when trying to boot. it did the same thing on another system a friend that got the junk off of it when he tried to boot it up it did the same thing.???

 

I can see why Russ couldn’t nail done what your problem is as either you don’t speak English well or you were not collected during your post.

It sounds to me going on what you have wrote that you have a Rootkit Malware Trojan and one of the best tools from the best security software providers is TDSSKiller. So go to the link and DL that program and run it on the drive. If you can boot up on the bad drive that would be prefered and then run the program, it doesn’t matter if you have other security software running when you run this program.

TDSSKiller

 

well my first response was to be negative, but seeing im trying to be a better person i'll just not respond to that.

second the TDSKiller did the trick im back up and running on the HDD that had the virus on it. thats a sweet little tool i will have to add it to my arsenal. thank you. took about 3 minutes to fix the issue. now i just need to pull the other HDD with XP on it and save it for another rainy day, and see if it will boot up again..lol

 

I'm sorry that my post upset you but if you go back and look at your original post #1827 it is broken English and like I stated not collected, however I thought I knew what you were getting at and I'm glad it worked out for you. I too, like most of us, sometimes post when too many things are going on and it can be hard for others to understand in which they then derive the wrong conclusions.

Glad it all worked out Rob!

Sorry,
Stevo

 

Glad its sorted Cincy! Long time no see around here!

Unrelated note...
Any recommendations anyone for a CPU fan/heatsink for an i7 950? The stock fan works well at stock settings but I've broken this in long enough and wanna bump up the speed a bit.

edit---Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R v2 and full tower case so size isnt an issue.

 

hey now worries, just another day in paradise.

back up and running on the W7 OS. dang is it much faster than XP..lol when i went to shut down and remove the other hdd damn W7 had 15 updates to do before shutting down. but back up and running without a hitch.

@Deadrum33
its a older cooler but is very very good with the i5/i7 cpus just need to get the adapter plate for it which is real cheap sometimes free if asked..lol
but the OCZ vendetta II is awsome. im useing it on my Q9550 and i know of a few people with both the I5 and I7 that are useing it and the temps are off the charts. plus the new I5/I7's run even cooler so your looking at some real low temps. you can get teh Vendetta II for like $20 most times with the adapter plate.

ok time to mess with photoshop some more..
yes OM7 im still trying to fiddle with it...lmao

 

I'm thinking of using this push/pull setup that runs $25 shipped, it comes with everthing and is quiet running.

XIGMATEK LOKI SD963 92mm HYPRO Bearing
COOLER MASTER Hyper TX3

$30
XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 120mm Long Life Bearing

 

Deadrum,

This Noctua NH-U12P SE2 is about the best air cooler you can get, and It's very quiet too! I know two people that have it for Socket 1366, and they were glad they spent the money.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608014

Best Regards,
Russ

 

I just sold my Tuniq for 18$ on ebay :S I was expecting a little more It was an excellent air cooler.

 

thermaltake frio?
any of the big noctuas?
corsair H50/H60/H70?

 

Shaff,

I posted the Noctua NH-U12P SE2. It doesn't get much better than that on air!

Russ

 

Russ,

I'll go with the $30 dollar solution that has the same heat sink design and same RPM/CFM for a lot less money. Even if you get a cheap fan it is nothing to replace it and saving $50 is huge. I can't see that the Noctua is worth that, and if I was to spend that much I would go liquid cooling personally. I think these heat sinks get to be a real gimmick in my opinion. Truly there isn’t much if any difference between the $30 sink versus the $80, a heat sink is pretty much a heat sink and a fan with exception to bearing type is pretty much a fan as long as the rpm/cfm is the same.

Stevo