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Do You need help? Read this first!!

Discussion in 'DVDR' started by bbmayo, Apr 19, 2005.

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  1. bbmayo

    bbmayo Active member

    Oct 31, 2004
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    Updated 06 April 2007

    [bold]First thing we need to do is read the rules and follow them RULES[/bold]

    1> Learn to use the provided [bold]Search[/bold] function located at the top of the page also look through the recent posts.

    2> [bold]GUIDES,[/bold] If you can’t figure it out with these ,then you may need to go back to school, and just give up all together!!!

    [bold]bbmayo’s Site[/bold] – These guides are designed especially for the newbie in mind with pictures and everything
    [bold]ScubaPete[/bold] – One of the most knowledgeable people here when it comes to backing up DVD’s
    [bold]Decrypter Settings[/bold]
    [bold]AfterDawn Guides[/bold] Very useful guides just in case!
    [bold]Doom9[/bold] lots of guides for just about anything!

    3>[bold]Software[/bold] (proggy’s) essential software you will need for the above guides.

    [bold]DVD Decrypter[/bold] Free tool for ripping (copying) your DVD to your hard drive. Can also be used to write to your DVD media in ISO (image) format.

    [bold]DVD Shrink[/bold] Another free proggy which can be used for all different DVD authoring. You can back up your DVD’s with just this proggy and Decrypter alone!

    [bold]AnyDVD[/bold] Basically this proggy runs in the background and is a driver which fools your operating system into thinking your DVD is has no encryption or region code.

    [bold]CloneDVD2[/bold] (by Elby) a very good DVD copying program when combined with AnyDVD it is a very easy to use and powerful combination.

    [bold]Nero[/bold] ultimate in CD/DVD burning proggy.

    RipIt4Me Newer encryption tool
    http://www.ripit4me.org/download.html Site was closed

    [bold]DVD Identifier,[/bold] A tool which will identify your DVD Medias manufacturers identification code!

    [bold]DVD InfoPro,[/bold] Another tool the same as DVD Identifier except you can check your recorded disk’s for errors with this one.

    [bold]}}}FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions){{{[/bold]

    [bold]<1>Why am I getting I/O or CRC errors while ripping my original DVD[/bold]
    I/O Errors are NOT bugs!!!! (well, not 99.99999% of the time anyway)
    An I/O Error is a way of displaying a problem your drive had with the disc or your system config (mainly a disc problem though). Unrecovered read errors, Seek errors, Servo errors, Focusing errors, ECC errors, CIRC Unrecovered errors etc. are all your drives way of saying "I don't like this disc". Clean the disc, update your drives firmware (http://www.rpc1.org), try it in another drive, and get another copy.

    [bold]<2>Why is my drive running so slow now?[/bold]
    More than likely your DMA settings have reverted to PIO mode CD-ROM and DVD-ROM drives can revert to using PIO mode, despite being set to use "DMA if Available." Here's how to make Windows XP redetect the DMA capabilities of the drives. DMA Settings

    [bold]<3>My Standalone DVD player won’t play my backed up DVD’s[/bold]
    Your player may not like the brand of media you are using. Check here http://www.videohelp.com/dvdplayers

    [bold]<4>OK I have crap media, where and what type of media should I get?[/bold]
    There really isn’t a big difference in the type of DVD you would use + or- . It all boils down to personal preference or what most DVD’s players you own will support. If your stand alone DVD players are newer (within 2 years) chances are they will read either + or – just fine. The most important factor when deciding media would be the brand or the manufacturer of the disc. This is a confusing one and talked about in depth all over the forum. So my recommendations to you would be these disks. Most will agree with this.. I hope :)

    [bold]Buying Online[/bold]
    Taiyo Yuden (genuine TY’s there are fakes out there so beware)
    Ritek G04 brand these would be the x4 disks again beware of fakes
    Prodisc 2nd class media, but newer media x8 seems to work well for people

    [bold]Buying at the store (Best Buy, Office Depot, Wal-Mart ect.)[/bold]
    Fuji film – Manufactured by Taiyo Yuden, MCC, Ricoh Japan, Prodisc, Fuji Film all fairly good manufacturers
    Maxell – Manufactured by Maxwell, Ritek, RicohJapan, Taiyo Yuden
    TDK – Manufactured by TDK, Ritek, RicohJapan, Maxwell, MCC, CMC Beware of the CMC brand
    Verbatim – MCC, CMC, TY, RicohJapan, Ritek again beware of CMC which it seems Verbatim is using more frequently lately.

    Note: A good rule of thumb when purchasing your media in the store is to look for “made in Japan or Singapore” stay away from “made in Taiwan or Hong Kong” When buying online always try and get “Branded” media this way you can be sure you are getting the genuine article. There is an exception to that rule and it would be Taiyo Yuden disks. You just need to buy from a reputable dealer when buying online. Here are a few I have bought from with good experience. Of course it isn’t going to be the same for everyone.

    Supermediastore.com – Rated number 1 just about anywhere you look.
    Rima.com – Fast and cheap good service
    Mertline.com – Quality media

    [bold] <5>What is CSS copy protection? [/bold]
    CSS (Content Scrambling System) decryption is neccessary to extract data from a DVD which has been copy protected. Most DVD Movies are copy protected. Some DVD Burning Software has this decryption build in while others download (one time) the decrypter from a 3rd party source. If there is no decryption support, DVD movies can not be copied.

    [bold]<6>What is ARccOS™– DVD-Video Copy Control?[/bold]
    Sony ARccOS™ copy protection is newer than CSS, and is a digital copy control solution available for DVDs. ARccOS™ by Sony DADC claims to be the ultimate copy control for dvd format providing actual protection without interfering with the entertainment experience. However, like most protection software, it has been "cracked" just like the CSS system was cracked a few years ago. Most dvd copy software can handle the new ARccOS copy protection system. Very few DVD movies have this copy protection scheme, but we expect more as time goes on.

    [bold]<7>Should I get a external or internal DVD Burner?[/bold]
    Internal vs. External
    A factor to take into consideration when choosing a DVD writer is how the drive will connect to your system. For those who plan to use the writer with only one computer, and have an open drive bay, the cheaper internal DVD writer models will work the best. However, if you intend to use the writer with more than one computer or have no open drive bays in your existing computer, the more expensive external models should be used.

    Note: External models are physically the same as internal models except they are installed in an enclosure. These external units must be connected to the computer through a system bus such as USB or FireWire, and are generally powered through an AC outlet.

    Note: Pick an external drive interface that matches what's installed on your system, or the bus type you plan to install--or pick a drive that supports both FireWire and USB 2.0

    [bold]<8>I am hooking up my new drive, do I put it on as slave, master or cable select?[/bold]
    I will try explain the difference between "master" and "slave"
    Despite the hierarchical-sounding names of "master" and "slave", the master drive does not have any special status compared to the slave one; they are really equals in most respects. The slave drive doesn't rely on the master drive for its operation or anything like that, despite the names (which are poorly-chosen--in the standards the master is usually just "drive 0" and the slave "drive 1"). The only practical difference between master and slave is that the PC considers the master "first" and the slave "second" in general terms. For example, DOS/Windows will assign drive letters to the master drive before the slave drive. If you have a master and slave on the primary IDE channel and each has only one regular, primary partition, the master will be "C:" and the slave "D:". This means that the master drive (on the primary channel) is the one that is booted, and not the slave.
    So you see there really isn't any difference, but us computer geeks have just been so used to the old way of doing thing's that the process of hooking up drives is kind of a habit. With the newer DMA/Ultra DMA out you are supposed to hook the master drive up to the end of the cable (black end) and the slave in the middle (gray end) where on the older PIo mode drives you would put the master on the middle and the slave on the end.
    Another note; If you are using DMA mode you really need to be using an 80 wire IDE cable (should have Blue, Gray, & Black connector) This is the standard for DMA so if you are using the older 40 wire cable this could be your problem also.
    Anyway to use cable select you need a special cable, and these are of course non-standard, making them a special purchase. Also, many people don't understand cable select, nor do they realize it needs a special cable. If you set both drives to "CS" and then use them on a regular (non-cable-select) IDE cable, both drives will configure themselves as "master", causing a configuration conflict.

    [bold]<9>I have a Power calibration error?[/bold]
    Options you can try with "power calibration errors"
    o Try another brand of DVD-/+R or DVD-/+RW media. This is the most common cause of OPC errors.
    o "Slow down your burning speed".
    o Update the firmware of your recorder. Check the manufacturer's website for the latest version.
    o Check your power connectors, loose connections do occur. Don't share power with other devices. It needs its own power connector. If the errors occurs with an external recorder, Check the USB cable and connections.
    o Try different configurations, such as taking the DVD-ROM to the primary IDE bus as slave and have only the recorder connected to the secondary IDE bus as master.
    o Clean or have your DVD burner serviced. There are cleaning kits available. Sometimes just a gentle appplication of canned air can remove dust blocking the laser.
    o Replace the DVD burner.
    lets hope we don't need to do the last one :)

    [bold]<10>Why does my disk not hold 4.7GB?[/bold]
    A lot of people wonder why there 4.7GB discs only write 4.38GB at maximum capacity. There is nothing wrong with your disk, but just and industry standard of calculating gigabytes. To be frank there way is incorrect because it actually takes 1024 bytes to make a full MB, yet the industry uses 1000? Go figure.. [bold]4.7 GB discs = 4.38 GB or 4489 MB for DVD-R and 4483 MB for DVD+R.[/bold]

    [bold]<11>What is ASPI and do I need it?[/bold]
    The term 'ASPI' is an acronym that stands for: Advanced SCSI Programming Interface. All the following terms are synonymous: ASPI layer, ASPI drivers, ASPI interface. The term 'SCSI' [scuzzy] is an acronym that stands for Small Computer Systems Interface. An ASPI layer consists of four files that 'lie between' various programs [software] and certain devices, such as CD/DVD-ROM drives and CD/DVD burners/writers [hardware]. Software programs such as CD digital audio extractors [commonly known as 'Rippers'] and CD-writing utilities such as CDRWin use/require ASPI drivers to 'communicate with' SCSI devices. Many people don't realize however, that the files contained in an ASPI layer are also used in systems that *don't* contain a SCSI adapter, or SCSI devices .. for things such as ripping CD audio and burning CD/DVDs.
    ASPI DOWNLOAD http://www.adaptec.com/worldwide/su...duct/ASPI-4.70&filekey=aspi_471a2.exe&sess=no

    [bold]<12>What is Booktype /BitSetting?[/bold]
    Physically there is a difference between a DVD-R disc and a DVD+R disc that is made during the production process. During the production of a DVD-R disc the lead-in is pre-embossed (pre-written). This overwrites parts of the DVD that contains information about the disc. E.g. the CSS key (part of the copy protection) is in this part on commercial movie discs (This is why you can’t make a 1:1 copy of a DVD). But in this space there is also room reserved for the so called ‘booktype’ field.

    Changing the booktype field

    This booktype field identifies the disc as either a DVD-ROM, DVD+R(W) or a DVD-R(W) disc and is for a big part responsible for the compatibility. Because this setting is overwritten during the DVD-R production process it can’t be modified afterwards, the laser of your DVD recorder simply can’t write to that part of the disc. During the production of DVD+R discs the space is untouched. Still CSS keys can’t be written to DVD+R discs because every DVD recorder and DVD player has a limit in its firmware to write or read to this space. However, there is no limit for writing the booktype field. Therefor a DVD+R(W) recorder will be able to modify this field by sending a command to the DVD recorder and fool the DVD player.

    When the booktype field (bitsetting) is changed to DVD-ROM then DVD players are fooled and will think the user has put in a DVD-ROM disc instead of a DVD+R disc and will read it accordingly. This results in an increased chance that the player is able to read the disc and that’s why the ability to change the booktype field (bitsetting) is essential to a lot of users. Certainly owners of a DVD player that requires this field to be set to DVD-ROM, in order to work properly, will prefer a DVD recorder that supports setting the booktype field.
    Check out this link http://www.k-probe.com/bitsetting-booktype-faq.php

    [bold]<13>How to convert a FAT volume or a FAT32 volume to NTFS[/bold]
    Note Although the chance of corruption or data loss during the conversion is minimal, we recommend that you perform a backup of the data on the volume that you want to convert before you start the conversion.

    To convert an existing FAT or FAT32 volume to NTFS, follow these steps:
    1. Click Start, point to All Programs, point to Accessories, and then click Command Prompt.
    2. At the command prompt, type the following, where drive letter is the drive that you want to convert: convert drive letter: /fs:ntfs
    For example, type the following command to convert drive E to NTFS:
    convert e: /fs:ntfs
    Note: If the operating system is on the drive that you are converting, you will be prompted to schedule the task when you restart the computer because the conversion cannot be completed while the operating system is running. When you are prompted, click YES.
    3. When you receive the following message at the command prompt, type the volume label of the drive that you are converting, and then press ENTER: The type of the file system is FAT. Enter the current volume label for drive drive letter .....
    4. When the conversion to NTFS is complete, you receive the following error message at the command prompt: Conversion complete
    5. Quit the command prompt.

    [bold]<14>How do I burn this new Movie just released?[/bold]

    Update Use this guide DVDFab, FixVTS, Shrink and ImgBurn

    A lot of the newest movies comming out now have the newer encryption on them and everyone is getting there panties all in a wad when they can't copy them. To solve this problem do the following.
    1) Wait until the movie has been out a couple of days so the creators of the decrypting software can update there software as they always do with the new encryption's. [bold]DVD Shrink and DVD Decrypter will not Decode any of the newer movies[/bold]
    2) Use the guides at my website which use RipIt4Me, DVDFab Decrypter or AnyDVD (they seem to work the best)
    3) Make sure you have the newest updates of your decrypting software. AnyDVD and RipIt4Me seem to be the first to update so either of those would be good choices.

    [bold]<15>How do I convert a AVI, DivX, Mpeg ect. into DVD format?[/bold]
    Check out the guide at my site called [bold]Convert AVI to DVD[/bold]

    [bold]Other useful links and stuff[/bold]

    o Make sure all your background tasks are turned off before attempting to copy a DVD. Programs like Norton security programs or simular.

    Windows 95 Users
    Use the Ctrl-Alt-Del function to quit all the programs using the Task Manager, EXCEPT for the Explorer, systray, and your recording software

    Windows 98/ME Users
    Select [Start] -> [Run], then input "msconfig". Disable everything under the [Startup] tab, except "system tray'.

    Windows 2000/XP Users
    Open the Task Manager, then select the program/s under the [Application] tab, then click [End Task].

    o Update your chipset

    Windows 95/98/ME Users
    Right click on [My Computer] and select [Properties] from the menu. Click on [Device Manager], then click to open [Hard Disk Controllers]. You will find: the Primary IDE Channel controller, the Secondary IDE Channel controller and a brand name controller, e.g. Intel, SIS, VIA, etc. The brand name controller is what needs to be updated. Please visit their website to obtain these updates.

    Windows NT/2000/XP Users
    Right click on [My Computer] and select [Properties] from the menu. Click [Device Manager] on the [Hardware] tab, then click to open the [IDE ATA/ATAPI (hard disk) controllers] section. You will find: the Primary IDE Channel controller, Secondary IDE Channel controller, and a brand name controller, e.g. Intel, SIS, VIA, etc. The brand name controller is what needs to be updated. Please visit their website to obtain these updates.

    Configure Windows
    Make sure that your operating system has been fully updated. Visit the Microsoft website to acquire these updates.

    o Firmware

    o Microsofts site. This can be useful to look up some error codes you may receive

    o Any error message in shrink have been answered here....

    o Packet writing apps....get rid of them.....
    Part of the way they work is to keep constant access to the drive so when another burning app needs to gain exclusive access to the drive it can't and the write process will be aborted. The three main packet writing apps are connected to burning suites.
    - Nero comes with InCD.
    - Roxio come with Drag To Disc.
    - RecordNow comes with DLA.
    All three should be found in Windows Add/Remove programs listed under said names :)

    o Want to keep your PC clean and running smoothly..
    -Ad Aware SE V 1.05 Free
    -Spybot Search & Destroy V 1.3 Free
    -Counterspy Free Trial
    -AVG Anti-virus V 7.30 Free Edition
    -WinPatrol V 9.0 Free
    -Hijack This V1.99 Free

    o The Sysinternals web site provides you with advanced utilities, technical information, and source code related to Windows NT/2000/XP/2K3 and Windows 9x, Windows Me internals that you won't find anywhere else

    o SiSoftware Sandra standard
    This utility's benchmarking, diagnostic, testing, and tune-up tools gather and report information about your system's hardware and resources.

    o This is a good guide for actually showing/explaining DVD Decrypter settings. http://www.doom9.org/index.html?/dvddec-options.htm

    [bold] wild77

    Please PM me if you have more suggestions
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2007
  2. Rotary

    Rotary Senior member

    Apr 10, 2003
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    LOCKED and STICKY pls.....
  3. dvdripdvd

    dvdripdvd Regular member

    Dec 2, 2004
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    This should come up as an agreement in joining AD.
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2005
  4. bbmayo

    bbmayo Active member

    Oct 31, 2004
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    Added your suggestions.. Thanks for the PM
  5. venomX05

    venomX05 Regular member

    Jan 18, 2005
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    LMAO!!! Was only a matter of time.


    Nice job.
  6. tsquare43

    tsquare43 Regular member

    Dec 15, 2004
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    Well done, bbmayo. Was this excellent post a result of the thread I read earlier today about treating newbies nicer? Can't remember the name of the thread, but I think it was started by whoever (whomever?) runs this forum.
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2005
  7. flip218

    flip218 Moderator Staff Member

    Apr 25, 2004
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    Done ... Hope they see it :)

    Nicely done bbmayo & Contributors.
  8. Nephilim

    Nephilim Moderator Staff Member

    Feb 13, 2003
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    flip kisses hamsters.
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