I have an LDW-411S (FS0K), Sonic MY DVD 4.60, DVDXCopy 4.0.3.8, Nero Burning Rom 6.3.0.0 and Win98SE. I could not get any DVD+R to burn successfully and made a whole spindle of CompUSA coasters. Sometimes I got an "Error -10 at Sector 16 - Disc Read Error - Command:2A Sense:03 ASC:73 ASCQ:03". (My drive doesn't tell me what that error code means). I tried to make data DVDs (backups of data from hard drive). I tried to backup a DVD movie. I tried many different ways to do all this. Many times the burn would finish yet the disc could not be recognized afterwards. Sometimes it would finish and even though I burnt a data disc, Windows Explorer woul interpret it as a disc with only a CDA file on it (no CDAs were burnt) and none of my "rescue" software could find anything else. So DVD+Rs could just not work. I tried Memorex DVD-R and it burn all the way without error yet Windows Explorer thinks it's a CDA file. ISObuster sees my data but only in ISO and not UDF mode, and it converts to DOS naming format when it reports/extracts it. DVDXrescue sees all my data and the original names and can extract them. What's going on here? Why won't Windows Explorer see my files on the DVD-R? Why does it see a CDA track instead. And why didn't DVD+R work? I haven't tried the Memorex DVD+Rs yet or DVD-RW. Someone please enlighten me. Thanks. (PS: probably if I read all 550,000 posts on here I'd be able to piece it all together, but I was hoping someone would sort of put it all together for in one tidy post.)
Hi there two4two, welcome to aD, There should be no earthly reason why your lite-on burner won't burn +R media if you have some up-to-date firmware installed for starters. My suggestion, AFA media goes, you need to search a bit in here to find recommendations for the correct quality discs for DVD Video work. To get you started, look in the very first thread in this forum and you'll be inundated with information concerning that topic alone. Now, for your backup work - Using the correct media will help solve some of your problems right off. You haven't mentioned what proggys you're using to do your backups OR what guide you're using - Judging from your post when you say, I'm going to assume you haven't bothered to read up on too much so you're going to have to do some work on your own. I'll help BUT you have to follow directions and do some reading - I've told you where to learn about media so now here's a guide - it's about 1/2 way down the page - http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/2/74599 Now listen up, when you see something that's high-lighted, if you don't know exactly what it is, click on it to see where it goes. If you see something you don't understand, use the Glossary OR the "search" function at the top of the page FIRST, BEFORE you ask a question - that way we'll make some good time AND you'll learn something too - For starters, use the Glossary to find out what an ISO is (we'll be working with them) and find out what a UDF is and lastly "Goggle" for DOS and spend just a minute or two to see if you can get a hold of what that is - Don't waste too much time, just get a rough idea. Good, Now here's your next chore, follow this - WHAT YOU DON'T UNDERSTAND, TRY TO LOOK UP. IF YOU CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT, ASK. This is going to set your PC so that it's up and running well - There are some things we should check as they have a direct influence over how our drive behaves - 1. Let's check for up-to-date Firmware for your burner. "OK, so what is this "Firmware" garbage?" Fair question. Firmware is a "tutor" who's job it is to eliminate any "bugs" found in your drive and to "introduce" your burner to all the different kinds of media to your burner is likely to run into and to tell your burner a little bit about it. What type of media it is and at what speed to burn it. As new media is introduced OR, as the Mfgrs of your burner find new ways to use it, new firmware updates OR "Flash upgrades" come out to "school" your burner, keeping it up-to-date. It's good to keep your burner up-to-date as it "tweaks" your burner and keeps it operating at peak performance. Of major Importance - When dealing firmware, you must match your burner's exact model with the proper Firmware. Trying to "Flash" your burner with something "Close" won't do it. It must be the exact firmware for your drive. ("Flashing" is what the installation is referred to when you put the firmware into your drive.) Trying to "Flash" your drive with some other drive's firmware can ruin your drive. At the bottom of the page look for "What's my firmware? - Try this little tool I found," Download this tool and check out your Firmware's health (up-to-date wise). You can probably get a current upgrade there also - http://flashman.rpc-1.com/ Firmware page - http://forum.rpc1.org/dl_all.php Always check your burner's Mfgr's "Support" section to see if some newer Firmware is there - Firmware, You can't burn without it - Now we need to see if we have a working ASPI Layer. "Yea right, and ASPI stands for Another Stupid Piece of Insanity, right ?" No, not quite, it stands for "Advanced SCSI Programming Interface". "Well that tells me nothing, what's it do ?" That's a much easier question to answer. It is kind of a "translator" allowing your software to talk your hardware in a manner that your hardware will understand. Let's imagine an Earthman trying to talk to a rock. Now, think of a sledgehammer as being the interface. With the interface in play, the Earthman can tell the rock to disperse into gravel no matter what planet the rock is from, OK ? Good, let's see if we have a sledgehammer - 2. Check for your ASPI Layer. If one isn't present, we'll need to get one and reinstall it, then reboot our PC to allow it to "settle in". ASPI Checker - http://www.adaptec.com/worldwide/su...oduct/EZ-SCSI_5.0&filekey=aspichk.exe&sess=no Force 1.8 ASPI Layer - http://forceaspi18.w.interia.pl/ Finally, we need to check your DMA. "Ooohh, no you're not ! Only my husband or my Doctor checks my "D", "M" . . whatever . . ." No, no, it's OK, DMA stands for "Direct Memory Access" transfer mode OR as we say in the computer field, it's a really, fast way to move stuff. Many PC's today are using UDMA or "Ultra Direct Memory Access transfer mode, or as we like to call it, a really super-duper fast way to move stuff as opposed to the PIO mode. The PIO or Programmed I/O mode, is a technique whereby the system CPU and support hardware directly control the transfer of data between the system and the hard disk since shortly after the beginning of PC's up until the mid-1990's. So we want DMA (fast) more than we PIO (slow). 3. Let's check your Drive's transfer mode. It should be DMA-4, not PIO. Windows XP downgrades the Ultra DMA transfer mode after receiving six CRC errors and drops it down to the much slower PIO mode. To enable DMA mode using the Device Manager 1. Go to "My Computer, ""System Tools," "View System Information," then System Properties, "Hardware," Then Open Device Manager 2. Double-click IDE ATA//ATAPI Controllers to display the list of controllers and channels. 3. Right-click the icon for the channel to which your burner is connected and select Properties. Now click the Advanced Settings tab. 4. In the Current Transfer Mode drop-down box, select DMA if available if the current setting says, "PIO Only." If the drop-down box already says, "DMA if Available" but the current transfer mode is PIO, then the user must "toggle" the settings. That is, change the selection from "DMA if available" to PIO only, and click "OK". Then repeat the steps above to change the selection to "DMA if available". OPTION: Right-click the burner and select "Uninstall" and then "OK" all prompts until the PC reboots. Upon rebooting, the PC should "find" your burner and reinstall it setting it by "Default" to DMA. Lastly, when did you last defrag your Hard Drive (HD) ? If you have to stop and think about the last time you did it, then it's way, way overdue. Here we go, (Start, All Programs, Accessories, System Tools, Disk Defragmenter. When it opens, choose your HD, analyses it to see where we stand then if you need it (you probably will) choose Defragment.). After you finish doing it now you might want to think about having "Scheduled Tasks" in your Control Panel do it for you on a daily basis. A fragmented HD not only drastically slows down your system but it can cause all number of things to happen inside your PC, a messed up burn being one of them. Once we've done that, our DVD burner should operate at peak efficiency ) Cheers, Pete Now let's see if everything will work together the way we want it to, OK ? Give it a test run and let us know how you make out -
Thanks Pete. Yes, you're right. I do have some reading to do and I have started that. I'm not quite a newbie in the world of PCs and Windows, but for purposes here I'm going back to the roots and am doing all you suggest. I'm using Sonic My DVD 4.60 for the file backups, DVDXCopy for DVD Video propagation (like John Mellencamp's DVD that came with his boxed CD set), and Nero 6.3.0 Professional and NTI CD/DVD Professional to copy one DVD data disc to another. I already upgraded the firmware for the drive. FS0K is the latest and it's from October 2004 from Lite On. I did go to Apeptec and download and install their most current ASPI driver. I didn't use the ASPICHK to see what I had. I just downloaded non-SCSI 4.70 and installed it. I thought I got it right but I'll re-read what you say about that and research on Adeptec's site and fix as you recommend. I don't know what a "guide" is that you refer to so I'll be looking for that in my research. The +R's that I wasted were CompUSA. My bad. The -R that I refer to that wrote successfully was Memorex. I didn't try RWs yet. DMA was definitely OFF for the drive. I'll change that. It is the master on the secondary onboard controller. My hard drives are on a separate PCI IDE controller. I use 98SE because ME is a no-brainer, and XP is the ultimate spyware (same for 2000). I won't give Microsoft that much control over me. So I'll be doing my research. My goals are: to learn why Windows file system thinks my DVD-R has a single CD Audio (cda) file on it while it actually has my file backups and ISO Buster and DVDXRescue can see those files but I have to "extract" them to read them as though they were in a ZIP file or somethig; learn why DVD+R couldn't work but DVD-R could; learn what to do to make burning a DVD as simple as burning a CD -- whether that is backing up files, or propagating a DVD movie, or authoring my own DVD Video. Also, I'd like to burn some DVD Audio discs or a HUGE MP3 disc. But mainly I want to backup my hard drives and propagate my DVD movies. I'll get back here with my results. Thanks!
PS: Do you think this excerpt from the My DVD log might have something to do with it?: Job 1 - RecType:3 Mode:1 FSType:4 Maybe the Mode or the RecType or FSType is responsible for it being written as an ISO instead of in File System format?
two4two, As they say in the movies, "Well Alrighty then, " We are going to concentrate on getting your PC operating without too awfully many viruses, bugs, glitches and malfunctions and "Blue Screens of Death. AND we're going to get you set on 1/2 of your goals, those dealing with DVD Video backups, editing etc - I'll pass you off to someone else for your PC backups as I use a software called Second-Copy 2000. Second Copy 2000 keeps a running tab on everything that's on my PC that I give a "tinker's damn" about on a separate 200GB HD. I have stored some basic proggys on CD's/DVD's BUT with proggys like the one I have OR Norton's Ghost, not too many pple I know have a backup software proggy for DVD discs. I hardly remember where to start – OK, well if you're ready, I am too - Let's get to it - Query, does My Sonic have a packet writing section (I'm assuming it does almost all of them do) we need to shut that off as well as Nero's InCD by going to startup in msconfig - They're like little hand grenades waiting to go off and ruin a perfectly good backup. The "Guide" I posted was to be used instead of DVD XCopy as it provides you with more control, better quality DVD backups yet remains as almost as simple to operate as XCopy. The "Guide" is what you just requested, a simple way to backup a DVD with a total cost to you of Nothing, Nada, Zilch. (Why did I know you would like that ? That guide was to do a full backup, no editing. This guide, the one on the bottom, last of three, is a guide to allow you to edit professional DVD's as well as joining two or more together. http://forums.afterdawn.com/thread_view.cfm/105641 As to your media, let's take Memorex as an excellent example as DVD media goes, 90% of Memorex, made by CMC, is sub-standard as far as DVD backups are concerned, figures as high as 50% coasters have been reported (One member bought a stack of 50 and got 23 good burns.), not what I would call an impressive record. Memorex made a name for itself with their magnetic tapes (VHS and audio cassettes) and have been living off it ever since. There are 4 different companies that manufacture Memorex DVD's BTW and product quality varies widely as you might imagine. Only 10% of the Memorex out there, those are discs manufactured by Mitsubishi in the 25 pack spindle , and they're the exception – they are the good ones. It's easy to see now why the quality of a big-named company can’t be trusted - “ Who’s making your Memorex tonight ?” Is it just Memorex ? No ! I just used Memorex as an example, Princo, Orange Pack, Great AZO and most "store" discs aren’t all that suitable as a DVD backup media – that’s why we are specific in the type of media we are recommending. 1. * Cheap media freezes, skips, pixelats and may refuse to be recognized by both burners and players :-( Besides "Freezing", "skips" many times you’ll get a “Cyclic Redundancy error” or an "I/O error". This message can mean that your discs are scratched or dirty, it can also mean that your burner won’t accept your “cheap” media :-( Another problem which, “Pops up” is a “*Power Calibration Error”. This can stop you right in your tracks and most often is caused by, Yep, you guessed it, inexpensive media. *A “Power Calibration Error” can also be attributed to the Optical Components of a DVD Writer, though this isn’t usually the case. Orange Pack, Princo, Great AZO and 90% of Memorex plus many others are just not that good for DVD burning. Those same discs however, are quite good for your MP3 music, picture archives, Spread sheets and Data..Even DataSafe G04’s made by Ritek have been reported as an inferior quality media and are evoking that “Oh no, I shouldn’t have gotten those.” What we are suggesting is to download this DVD Identifier to find out who manufactured your DVD and if it's a decent quality. http://dvd.identifier.cdfreaks.com/ Once you have your disc identified, click the "More information" icon and see what information you're given. if you're not sure of the quality, come on back and we'll check it out for you - 2. A good grade, Hi-quality media is needed for DVD reproduction ! RiData, Sony, TDK, "Branded" Ritek G04's or "Branded" Verbatim Data Life, Verbatim DataLife plus, Taiyo Yuden's and generally, almost any discs manufactured by Mitsubishi or RICOH are excellent bets. Among the better discs we're looking for, any media boasting "Advanced Metal AZO" - BUT it must say "METAL" AZO !, this indicates a superior dye and dye application on a good composite disc, while they are sometimes a bit "pricey" they are just the type of media we're looking for to do our DVD backups, Prices online from Meritline.com OR Newegg.com have gotten Ritek G04 starting at about a $ .45 (USD) a disc – For DVD backups, purchasing inexpensive media or even average media is a gamble, some people win BUT the majority lose, they lose varying amounts true but, they still lose :-( Using good grade media can guarantee you one thing to an absolute certainty; it surely cannot hurt. In an effort to clear the air, when I speak of "Cheap" or "Inexpensive" media, I'm not referring to the price you pay at the counter - I'm referring to poor quality control used during manufacturing and the quality of the dye, dye application or composite type used. I'm not saying it won't burn - Some may burn, some may not. It's quality is inconsistent, meaning it's not dependable. To make matters worse, many times the discs that you do burn may play in your PC BUT your standalone player may not accept them – what good then is a backup DVD that cannot be watched on a DVD player ? When I say "Branded," that means that when you pick up a disc in your hand, it says "Ritek" or "RiData" on the disc itself. The monetary cost of the media we recommend many times is cheaper than what you are purchasing now. We like to verify our information prior to recommending things. There are certain things we look at. For instance, when their dye and dye application are listed as unknown, this almost guarantees us they are using whatever they can get at a cheap price. Companies that use quality materials like to BRAG about it, naming names and staying with quality manufacturers who produce their media. Using DVD identifier and MediaMatch can help you find out a lot about what you're using. Purchasing your DVD media online can insure that you're getting quality merchandise at a good price. Shopping wisely will save you time, aggravation and money. One thing I haven't addressed is the life of a backup made on an "el cheapo" disc. We all know that data, music and video backups on CD's and DVD's will last forever, well, if not forever for at least 100 yrs or so - That's what we've read and I believed and that's why we backup our treasures to disc, so that they'll be safe. "BLAaaaT" (the bone chilling sound of an emergency air horn), Wrong, Dead Wrong ! Don't throw the originals away, you may very well need them. Your video camera tapes and family picture CD's and DVD's, may not be there the next time you want to look at them. "Point of fact," inferior discs have a tendency to "Break down]" in time. In a very short time, we're talking disc can breakdown in less than a single year, in as little as 6 to 8 months. This article was written about CD discs but DVD discs are exactly the same. I was miss-informed and this opened my eyes. Perhaps you'll find it as important as I did. http://news.independent.co.uk/world/science_technology/story.jsp?story=513486 My personal observations on this subject - I have had about 40 backups that have refused to play after being stored for a year or more. I test all of my backups when they are burnt to be very sure that there are no problems. "In the Golden, Olden times," before I knew any better, the Memorex, Maxell and professional "Store Brand" discs (and any thing that was on sale) was what used before I switched to RiData and Verbatim. It is the poor quality stuff that I have been experiencing my trouble with. I noticed that backup DVD's I had refused to play in my standalone player and on my PC. VOB files wouldn't play either and other discs that I backed up about the same time would "Freeze" part way through the movie. After switching to Verbatim and Ritek's, mostly the Ritek's because the price was right, I've not had 1 go "Flat" in over 1 ½ years. I still have some backups about 90 of them done on the "cheap stuff" and, as time wears on I lose a few more as I attempt to check them. I say to you, why did a backup play fine in "01"and "02" then "fail" in "03 ?? Some that were done in "01" never made it till "02" (it took me some time to learn, lol) and others done about the same time and "Failed" in "04"? Most of my backups from around December of "02" were done on the "good Stuff" and they still work fine today - not a single failure ! What about now ? Well in a very short time when the calendar changes to 2005, I'm going to run the rest of them through. It's been too long and I don't want to run the risks that I've lost an original OR one has been borrowed and never returned (like that's never happened, Huh ?). I want my discs back and 005 is the year – Don't go through what I did, protect your investment. Let's get you set with some decent media for our video work, let you try one or the other of the guides I've linked you to and have you come back and tell me iffin you've gotten stuck anywhere - (you shouldn't BUT I'll keep my fingers crossed -) Cheers, Pete *Norton's Ghost takes a picture of your HD, all the programs etc so that you can reformat your HD and within about 10 minutes have your PC back and running cleanly whenever you wish.
Pete, you are the MAN. Thanks for all your help. Can't buy better. I found the section on guides and am reading away. Nice break time from the O.L. Thanks again!
OK, Maxell media. Both -R and +R have recorded my backups, and my PC can read them thru Windows file system just like it was a CD or my hard drive. DNA works on the DVD drive. I was able to propagate that Mellencamp DVD, but it only plays on this drive in this PC. My DVD-ROM won't play it and my other PC won't play it, and my family standalone DVDplayer won't play it. But it's a start! I need to find a source for the REALLY good media you list. Staples, Best Buy, CompUSA and Wal-Mart don't cary but a few brands. I'll search for a reputable online source. Shrink and Decryptor are great! I'm still reading your guides. Looking for the parts where others have solved the problem of only playing on the drive where it was burnt. Thanks for all the help!!
Hi again there two4two, Glad to see you're making progress Good news, The powers that be have been working on the "search" feature there at aD and it's working beautifully - give it a try if you haven't recently - As some online sites, Mertline.com and Newegg.com are especially good ones -` Happy New Year, Pete
